Powerhouse Posted April 27, 2009 Report Share Posted April 27, 2009 Hello all, Can a clutch be removed whilst engine is in car? Or does one just need to jack up the engine and detach the rear motor mounts and take off the whole clutch cover and all? ANy pics or description would be greatly appreciated. I am getting a high pitch squeeling when I engage 1st gear at a stop(obviously)...and it always seems like uphill is really much more of a squeel. I've noticed my tranny gears are spinning still when clutch is not engaged...at idle... Does this mean new disc? Thanks:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted April 27, 2009 Report Share Posted April 27, 2009 I can't comment on your noise but if you do need a clutch it can be done in the car. You'll have to drop the driveshaft and remove the trans first. Probably not a whole lot of fun but its doable. I've been putting off doing one in my pickup. Its only got ~3500 miles on it but its got a bad chatter to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigred48 Posted April 27, 2009 Report Share Posted April 27, 2009 It is pretty easy to do the clutch in the car I took mine out last winter just to check before I put it back together. Get a clutch alignment tool and you will be good to go! the only tricky part I can see is removing the upper two bolts on the transmission, it wasn't an issue for me because I had the floors out but I am sure there is away around this. Good luck! Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powerhouse Posted April 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2009 Thanks, So do you have to disconnect the bell cover that attaches to the engine(not the pan on bottom..the big part on top with the vent screens)? I can take the floor pans out no problem...there not really in that well anyway. oh...and the trans needs a gasket between engine and itself anyway...a bit leaky... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powerhouse Posted April 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2009 Any idea on size of clutch and parts needed...the engine is a 53 dodge 218...with 36 chry OD. trans...which was interchangeable with the 39 ply trany that was in it before... will this description work? "10" BORG & BECK CLUTCH KIT THAT WILL ALSO REPLACE ORIGINAL 9 1/4" CLUTCH IN THE FOLLOWING APPLICATIONS: 1949-54 STANDARD 217 CI ORIGINAL 9 1/4 CLUTCH Kit includes pressure plate, clutch disc, bearings and alignment tool AND comes with one year warranty CLUTCH DISC SIZE: 10" x 1" x 23 SPLINE ANSWER = NO WAY! Please read ahead...item was mislisted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigred48 Posted April 27, 2009 Report Share Posted April 27, 2009 you don't have to remove the bell housing to get the clutch out but you will have to spin the flywheel in order to remove the pressure plate. I turned the flywheel with big screwdriver on the teeth which may not have been the best idea but I did not cause any damage, you could remove the spark plugs and maybe turn it by hand I don't know about that so don't quote me. I did not have to personally do the clutch I just checked it and reinstalled. I would put a new gasket between the housing and the bell housing just as cheap insurance against leaks. I thought it was a really simple repair aside from all the parts that need to be removed. one more thing be sure to get the drive line bolts tight I would suggest some locktite on them just to be sure. Good luck Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powerhouse Posted April 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2009 AH great news...thanks. I was dreading the clutch job...I heard you had to take the engine out and all...which wouldn't be a hard job but I'd have to rent a hoist and do alot more work... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Yergin Posted April 27, 2009 Report Share Posted April 27, 2009 I replaced the 9 1/4 inch clutch on my 230 engine in my '41 P12 with a 10 inch clutch. My flywheel had the bolt holes for both sizes. I did it without removing the engine. As stated, you do have to remove the drive shaft and transmission. You reach the clutch by taking off the lower coverpan and rotating the engine to access the bolts holding the pressure plate to the flywheel. I removed the spark plugs and had no trouble turning the engine by hand at the flywheel. I used a scissors floor transmission jack from Harbor Freight and the car raised up on all four wheels to provide adequate clearance. The transmission jack made a world of difference both removing and especially in installing the transmission. It was well worth the $90 purchase price. Jim Yergin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powerhouse Posted April 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2009 cool...so 10" is a go. Thanks much. I hope my flywheel has the holes for both sizes..... I had a time puttin that 36 OD in last time...did it twice because something was messed up inside...fixed it and put it back in again...didn't go so easy as the first time. Definitely painted the walls with some fine words that night...hahaha. I guess the guide thing is a good idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Yergin Posted April 27, 2009 Report Share Posted April 27, 2009 You should be able to verify that you have both sets of holes by dropping the cover pan and taking a look. I don't know the spline count but I used the same transmission input shaft with both the 9 1/4 inch clutch and the 10 inch clutch. No difference in the number of splines. I also had a spare input shaft to use a a clutch alignment tool. Jim Yergin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powerhouse Posted April 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2009 Oh yeah..that would be easy...I'll check it tonite. I'm sure it needs a new disc or something...just makes so much squeel noise at first engagement.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andydodge Posted April 27, 2009 Report Share Posted April 27, 2009 That squealing could be the clutch throwout bearing, does it stop when you put the clutch pedal in?........if so then while doing the throwout bearing you may as well do the clutch itself unless it appears in good shape, as you are in the same area....andyd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powerhouse Posted April 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2009 When idling it's not squeelling...just a "shhhhhhhhhhhhh" sound which goes away when push the pedal all the way down. The squeeling happens as I let the clutch out and accellerate. It's worst up hill. It goes away as soon as the clutch grabs but it seems to be not grabbing. I never knew how easy it was to check...just by dropping the tranny. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powerhouse Posted April 28, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2009 OK...so I checked it out last night. It was dry in there and there are holes for the 10" clutch. The pedal is adjusted all the way as well as the clutch release fork adjusting rod. If I adjust it anymore it will come of the threaded rod. SO I guess I need a new clutch facing. Is that correct? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Yergin Posted April 28, 2009 Report Share Posted April 28, 2009 I am no expert but it sounds like it to me. Jim Yergin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desoto1939 Posted April 28, 2009 Report Share Posted April 28, 2009 Also if you can install an new pilot bushing is you have the puller to take it out but definetly re grease the input when it goes into the pilot bearing. I have the miller tool that is used to align up the clutch plate. If you have a 39 trans in the car you need to remove the two front top cover bolts before you try to pull the trans out of the bell housing. This is very important replace everything that you can when you have the trans a presure plate and clutch out. The hard work is done do it once and then you know that you have it all replaced Do a new throwout and bearing. When the Drive shaft is down check the universals for play and also greae then again. Check the boot if you have the old style detroint of pin and trunion. rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dezeldoc Posted April 28, 2009 Report Share Posted April 28, 2009 Mine was 10 spline. where did you find the kit for 65? i searched epay and only found the disc. does the kit come with the throw out bearing also? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powerhouse Posted April 28, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2009 The description is WRONG...it should be 10 SPLINE ....NOT 23...and the wrong pressure plate, etc too Do NOT buy this kit... unless you have slant six! They are very helpfull however...and are working on getting me the right stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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