What Have I gotten Into?! Pt.2

[bobaloo11]

Oh boy. Now that I got it pulled out of the Mississippi mud and back to Michigan, I could really take a closer look. The interior is trashed, but complete. The gauges are pretty unreadable, but that's waaaay down the road. Cab floor is pretty rusted too. Sheet metal/body work is something I can usually handle, minor welding etc. but not heavy welding. There is where the trouble begins.

Attached photos show some possible problems.

The pumpkin of the axle housing has a good size hole in it. The hole is from the outside in! Maybe someone shot it to put it out of its misery. I know I can take it apart, see if there is internal damage, pound out the metal and do some light welding to seal the hole, I hope. But then again, is it the correct axle? If you look at the pictures closely the shocks have been cut off and the axle was apparently removed and replaced. The u-bolts are about 3in too long on one side and there is no shock mounting provisions. I have another photo of a bracket I found in the cab that I think is a shock mount/axle plate? Is it even for this truck? I guess I should be thankful that the axle is bolted in at all. Another picture shows the other side where the axle is CHAINED to the spring!

Last, you can see the frame has several places where it is rusted thru and if you look real close you can see the rear crossmember is rusted through quite a bit also.

This was only my first few minutes of looking. I can only imagine what else there is hidden.

The bottom line here is... I don't want to put alot of effort and money in a truck that will not be driveable, should it be used for parts, or parting out.

Give me an honest brutal opinion.

If it will make a good parts truck... make me an offer I can't refuse.

Otherwise, I should have it on the road in another 49yrs or so.

Thanks..

[Paul Beard]

The picture of the shock mount is correct as far as my B4B is concerned.

Plate goes under axle and u blost hold axle to springs. Shock mount faces toward inside from both sides with shocks facing up towards the front.

[Dave72dt]

You might want to make a detailed list of what needs to be repaired/replaced before you go any farther. I tend to split the lists into sections such as frame, suspension, drivetrain, body, interior, electrical. etc. Check the rest of the frame, especially where suspension components are fastened. Some have been known to crack at those points. Photos are a great help and a frame diagram with highlighted areas to match the photos will help you determine whether to repair the frame or replace it. All frames that old will likely need something done to them.

Some people are transplanting the bodies onto newer drivetrains which is certainly a viable option for reliability and comfort in a regularly driven cruiser. I didn't see anything in your pictures that was insurmountable as far as repairing. Most of the frame rust-throughs are going to be in the back half of the frame and even though your bed appears to be transparent, pull it off for a good look.

[grey beard]

You didn't mentiuon sheet metal in your description of truck woes. How does that look - floor boards, cab rear lower panels, cab mounts, fenders, etc.?

Frame problems can be welded and repaired, even strengthened if necessary, but they're not making this sheet metal any more, and unless you can find a donor parts vehicle, this could get really expensive.

Bottom line is - how much do you like this truck? Show us some pics of how she looks sitting on all fours. Can you do welding and body work? Then ask yourself how much money you are willing ro put into the project, and then take a look at what's for sale in the Trucks For Sale section of this forum.

Also, one last thought - several fellows on this forum are (gulp) hotrodding Pilothouse trucks, and they may provide a source for frames, drive trains, etc. since typically they generate a lot of cast-off stock items in these categories.

Good luck and let us know how you will proceed. Lots of good wisdom and ideas on this fourm to help you on your way.

[bobaloo11]

I will include a few pics but they're not close ups.

The cab floor is somewhat rusted thru. The flat panel located just above the pedals is well rotted.

Hood is in good shape, grill has some damage but no rust thru. The front fenders have one or two pinholes that I could see, BUT the area located just behind the wheels, where the fender attaches has a rectangular rust area on both sides. Naturally, where the body panels meet there is some rust. I'm not trying to make a show truck out of it. Just something to play with, both fixing and to drive.

No, I don't have a ton of money to put in it, But would do what is needed to get it running and driving safely. Body doesn't need to be cherry. I'll paint it with spray cans if needed.

[Merle Coggins]

I've got a complete axle assembly, with springs, if you need one. I also have a parts truck that I was going to strip down to a bare chassis. The cab is junk, but the frame might be usable. It was cracked near the rear spring front mounting areas, and was repaired badly, but with a better repair job in that area it would probably be usable. Let me know if I can help you out. What part of Michigan are you in? I'm in S.E. Wisconsin.

It sounds like you've got a bit of time, money, and sentiment tied up into this one already. There are guys that have done more with less, so it can probably be saved.

The rust around the rear of the front fender attachement area, around the rivits, is common and repairable. The floor has 3 replacable panels. Is it those panels that are rotted out, or is it part of the main cab metal?

Merle

[Guest Dave Claussen]

The long U bolts may have been for a set of helper springs that would have been on a 3/4 ton truck. All in all you have a pretty good looking truck to start with. Sometimes you have to use your imagination to see what it would look like when you're done. Lucky you, the cab has the corner windows, wish mine had those. Dave

[tinlizzy]

I have just purchased a 1948 panel truck for parts. The body is pretty well eat up but has a lot of useable stuff so keep this in mine when you get to the point of starting repairs. I got the truck for a decent price so what I don't need will go cheap.

I don't have it home yet so I can't say for sure how bad it really is so, put my email on a list some where for later reference on parts.

fernwood48@gmail.com Your truck body doesn't look that bad to me or at least no worse than mine. Good luck and one more saved from the crusher.

Lee

[MBF]

Don't get discouraged-look past the beauty! I've started with worse-I just found that one of my cross members needs to be replaced but that'll eventually get done. Like someone said there are a lot of guys hot rodding this stuff-and I would think a chassis would be easy to find. There was just a 1 ton on ebay with new rubber all around that went pretty cheap. Hang in there and keep your options open. Mike

[bobaloo11]

You talked me into it, so far. The main reason I'm kinda whiney about this is because the seller was not very honest with me. I'm finding much more than I was told/thought and found to be wrong originally. I guess you could say I'm kinda p'd off.

Weather permitting, tomorrow I'm going to go inch by inch along the frame looking to see where and how badly it is rusted and/or cracked. I will also check the cab corners and floor to see the extent of damage. It was mentioned that the floor is made up of 3 replaceable panels. [The one in the worst shape is the one between the pedals and firewall] I was incorrect. It is the area just BELOW the pedals and it stays pretty bad all the way across. I can see it's a separate piece and replaceable, is it being reproduced or should I look around the forum for one. Anybody have any idea where I can pick up the correct spring/shock mount?

The fender rivet area. I was going to pull them off and patch it from the back with my stick welder, (No I cant run a real nice bead). But I'll do my best and hopefully not distort the metal too much. Is this the right idea? Or is there something better.

Sooo if all goes as planned and the frame seems useable, my plans are to start with checking to see if the motor starts as I was told. If it is in good shape, then brakes, then chassis body and finally electrical. That's after I get a CLEAN TITLE.

Oh, Merle and everybody else too... I'm in S.E Michigan, about 30 miles north of Detroit.

Again, sorry about whining, I guess I caught it from my ex!

[pflaming]

Clean that red and it will shine again, very little expense just some good elbo grease. Look at what came out of my surface. Yours will be even better. The truck was light blue when I hauled it home, 17 years of oxidation. Amazing what is under that oxidation. Look at pictures in threads entitled "Patina" and Patina #2 to see more before and after pictures. Good luck, you are in for a lot of good surprises.

[deadbodyman]

that sheetmetal dont look so bad if you like the truck build it .ive done jobs far worse

[deadbodyman]

thats right get er running first then drive it then make up your mind

[Guest Dave Claussen]

Maybe if the seller wasn't totally up front about the trucks condition you could talk him down in price a little??!!

[Dave72dt]

You'll have a tough time patching the fenders or any sheet metal with a stick welder. A MIG. TIG or even an oxy-axetylene with a small welding tip will give you much better results. Cutting out the rusted area and fabbing patch panels youself and having someone else weld them in is another alternative that can keep the hired labor costs down if you don't have access one of the other types of welders.

[bobaloo11]

Yea, I agree with you about the stick welder. I just found that I have access to a small MIG machine. I know it's a light duty machine, but I dont have good access to 220V, so this is the best I could do. What do you think?

Wire capacity: 0.035" or 0.030"

Duty cycle: 10% @ 80 amps, 18% @ 60 amps

Welding current (2 settings) 63 to 68 amps (low), 79 to 90 amps (high)

115 volt, 15 amps

Will this do?

Thanks again.

[48Dodger]

There's a bunch of good threads on welders and thier useage. Your welder sounds fine, just take the time to learn the its characteristics and the kind of welds you'll need for the part your welding. My 2 cents on welding is this: sometimes finding a cleaner part is easier and cheaper than welding a bad part back to life. If I stich a fender back together, I have to consider shrinking it, bonding it, and the realignment problems from unseen geometric angles. Of course its doable and is done often, but just cuz you have a welder doesn't mean finding a cleaner part isn't better. I love my Tig welder very much...but I love the Fedex truck too. lol.

48D

[carl b51]

The amp settings sounds a little high for body tin if that is what you have access to I would use .035 and back the weld with a piece of brass to take some of the heat . try stitch welding Hope this Helps Carl

[pflaming]

Look at the 51 Fargo Thread. I think your color would look much like that once it is cleaned up! I am a 'survivor paint' advocate and I like your color. Good luck as you keep opening up your 'present'!

Also lots of parts get listed as time goes along. Got my hood from Hilimar, CA, my radio from Reg, a dash hood from Washington state and just put dibs on a rear end from north/central CA. This forum is a God-send for us novices!

[deadbodyman]

hey ,u know i feel bad for you,getting ripped off and all so i tell u what ill do,dont start working on its to much work,plus the paint dont shine,ill take it off your hands ,heck im feeling really bad for u ill even give you all the money back u paid for it ok?be there first thing in the morning

[bobaloo11]

Sounds like a deal to me... bring cash & a truck to load it on! I'll find another "b" series to work on. Something my homeowners association won't complain to me about... Yes, they already have.

[deadbodyman]

plus it make mama happy,mama happy everyone happy.tell me a little more about it,does it run,how much u want,is it complete

[coW52Dodge]

Yea, I agree with you about the stick welder. I just found that I have access to a small MIG machine. I know it's a light duty machine, but I dont have good access to 220V, so this is the best I could do. What do you think?

Wire capacity: 0.035" or 0.030"

Duty cycle: 10% @ 80 amps, 18% @ 60 amps

Welding current (2 settings) 63 to 68 amps (low), 79 to 90 amps (high)

115 volt, 15 amps

Will this do?

Thanks again.

Something like that will do okay on sheetmetal. I think it would be better to have more adjustment on the current. If it has a shielding gas option, use it.

While it may be tempting to go to town on the truck, make sure you practice on sheetmetal you don't care about first, though. Go to the junk yard an pick up junk hood and fenders for any car to get a feel for what heat does to sheetmetal. Then make up your mind whether you're up for welding the truck together.

You'll find that your very first welds will look like bird poop and it will progressively get better. It isn't super difficult but there's a 'touch' to it that takes a little time to acquire.