Calling all Electrical Gurus

[Zeke1953]

Went for a ride yesterday with the wife. All was fine until the truck wouldn't start after it sat for about an hour while we visited relatives. Turned ignition on and got no power at all - no lights, no radio and no starter. After about two minutes, it came back to life and off we went. Unfortunately, as we approached one of the busiest intersections in town, the truck just died. Again, no power at all. A police officer showed up and parked behind us with blue lights on and my wife was, "so embarassed." I was ready to call AAA when all of a sudden, the power came back on and we drove it home without a problem. Back in my driveway, same thing happened. With total electrical failures like this, I'm thinking ignition switch problems. Any suggestions??? Zeke

[TodFitch]

I do not recall seeing any vehicle wiring diagrams where the lights were run off the ignition switch, so it seems unlikely that your symptoms would be caused by that. Sounds more like a bad connection between the battery and the car (ground and/or power cables).

[Norm's Coupe]

I doubt it's the switch. However, it could be the wiring going to the switch. I'd start there looking at the wiring for a broken wire or loose connection. Then it's just a matter of working yourself back through the rest of the system.

[Young Ed]

When I had issues with my car this summer it was because the wires on the ammeter had come loose.

[grey beard]

Mr. Zeke,

Our Pilothouse truck wiring is sorta' unique in a few respects. With the exception of the starter, all electrical power comes from the ammeter. One wire feeds power from the starter post to the driver's side of the ammeter. All other power for ignition, lights, wipers, heater, etc., comes off of the curb side of the ammeter post. This means that if continuity through the gauge, itself, is interrupted, you lose everything - exactly as you described.

As I write this, I have an intermittent ammeter in my own dash. Took me two weeks to finally diagnose this rascal. Of course, any inrtermittent eleftrical circuit is always toughest to find - it's not always malfunctioning.

My diagbostic suggestion - unless you can find another amnmeter - is to simply make up a 10 gauge jumper wire with alligator clips, and bypass the ammetrer temporarily. Or run a new hot wire from the starter to the passenhger's side of the gauge temporarily. Please make sure to use a heavy wire - lots of amperes will be passing by on this circuit. If this fixes trie problem, at least you now khow your enemy.

Good Luck. Let us know what you find.

[MBF]

To avoid this problem, I bypassed the ammeter entirely during my rewire and installed a volt meter under the dash. I have had similar problems in the past. Found the problem to be that the main connection on the starter switch was working itself loose (probably from the engine torque?). I'd also check to make sure you've got a good battery to chassis, and chassis to engine, and engine to body ground. Let us know what you find. Good luck. Mike

['37 P4 Touring]

I would check closely the grounds and battery cables. I have had to add a heavy ground wire or cable from the engine/transmission to the frame. Clean the surfaces at the battery cables both ends to insure good grounds.

Good Luck

Went for a ride yesterday with the wife. All was fine until the truck wouldn't start after it sat for about an hour while we visited relatives. Turned ignition on and got no power at all - no lights, no radio and no starter. After about two minutes, it came back to life and off we went. Unfortunately, as we approached one of the busiest intersections in town, the truck just died. Again, no power at all. A police officer showed up and parked behind us with blue lights on and my wife was, "so embarassed." I was ready to call AAA when all of a sudden, the power came back on and we drove it home without a problem. Back in my driveway, same thing happened. With total electrical failures like this, I'm thinking ignition switch problems. Any suggestions??? Zeke

[Zeke1953]

Thanks, guys. I knew I'd get some good ideas. I'll let you know how my investigation goes. Zeke

[Zeke1953]

Both Todfitch and '37 P4 Touring were right. My problem was that the ground cable between the positive post on my battery and the transmission case had become lose. Grey Beard put me on the right track when he said that the starter would still work if the problem was with my ammeter. Since my starter would not work, I checked the ground cable first and found the problem. A quick turn with a 9/16" wrench and the problem was solved. Thanks again to everyone who responded; I'm happy to be on the road again. Zeke

[Zeke1953]

Forgot to mention that MBFowler was also right on the money! Zeke

[TodFitch]

Glad we were able to help.

[grey beard]

Zeke,

Now you can REALLY do yourself a favor - go to the hardware and get a handful of 3/8-inch star lock washers. Put one of these on each side of that bolt you just tightened on your battery ground cable and one on each side of the nut on your starter switch. Now those two connections will still be carrying current when your grandkids restore that old truck NEXT time it needs doing. :)

[MBF]

Glad you found your "bug". Sometimes they can be a bear to find, and usually end up being something simple. I know what its like breaking down with the wife! The thing will run fine for 2 yrs but when you want to take the Mrs for a ride stuff happens. Mike

[Zeke1953]

I will definitely buy and install those star lock washers. Total electrical failure while on the road is not a pleasant experience. My wife might still be worried about riding in my truck, but I have a couple of friends who are always happy to go for a ride! Zeke

[Frank Elder]

Those star washers are mighty fine, another option I have used is nut with an integrel star washer. The nut and the washer spin seperately until snugged down, then torque can be applied.