Disc brake conversion question...

[rustbucket]

Is there any that can tell me if there is more to it than just the front end parts swap? More specificaly, do you need to alter the hydraulic system in some way(s)? (pressure regulator?, different master cylinder?).

[Plymouthy Adams]

drop a private message to olddaddy of this forum..he sells the kits..I think he has a list of itmes over the counter and maybe can e-mail you an instruction sheet..this will give you a gopod idea of what is involved..

[rustbucket]

drop a private message to olddaddy of this forum..he sells the kits..I think he has a list of itmes over the counter and maybe can e-mail you an instruction sheet..this will give you a gopod idea of what is involved..

I love a gopod idea:D

[Plymouthy Adams]

ok ok ....so I type faster than I correctly spell...

[Andydodge]

As a general rule apart from the swap of the disc brakes, you would also have to change the master cylinder and install a brake booster, and depending on the rear wheel cylinder size you may also have to install a brake proportioning/limiting valve to stop the rear wheels locking up as the increased pressure that the front discs require is generally too much for the rear drum brakes........I run 4wheel discs on my 40 Dodge but when I originally did it I had drums on the back and I couldn't get them working properly.......this was 30 yrs ago tho'.........your best bet is to contact the various places that sell disc conversions and see what they say, I'd also replace the original 1/4 inch brake kines with more modern 3/16th lines if you instal front discs, and while I included a booster in the update it may not be absolutely necessary but will make the car much more driveable.....

[Plymouthy Adams]

as an added note..if you mount your master below the floor as is stock..odds are you will need a residual valve inline to prevent backflow when idle..

[Don Coatney]

Here are the Plydo instructions. I believe they are the same as what Olddaddy offers. Total cost around five hundred bucks for parts only. I am happy with my conversion.

[BeBop138]

Check with Mark at Scarebird Mechanical for comparison....good luck, it is a great improvement, you won`t be sorry you did it.........

[Norm's Coupe]

In contrast to one post here. It is not necessary to do any modifications at all to the master cylinder, if you use the kit from Old Daddy or ECI. Didn't need to with the PlyDo kit either, but don't know if they are still open for business now. You will need residual valves inline though. All three of these kits are easy to install.

[John Mulders]

I used the kit from Charlie,not other mods made and I have no problems braking (except the going bad of the rear wheel cylinders).

I guess it also depends on the use of the car, we don't have highways so my speed is much lower. Guess the propotional valve in the back would be a good idea , the rear may lock up first now.

John

[Norm's Coupe]

John,

When you have front disc brakes, the rear drum brakes will not lock up first if you have the rear brakes adjusted properly. You still do not need a proportioning valve with the Kits we've discussed, using the stock master cylinder. I drive mine in heavy city traffic and have no issues with brakes locking up. Don't believe Don Coatney has a proportioning valve either and he recently said he's put over 10,000 miles on his P15. Don does have the residual valves though. Not sure what type of master cylinder he has, but don't remember him saying he changed that.

The only time my brakes have ever locked in the rear was before I put the disc brakes on the front. That was caused by the old brake shoe pad falling apart though, not adjustment.

[Olddaddy]

Well, here's my free advice, which is worth what you pay for it. I drove my 50 Suburban for about seven years on the original master cylinder after installing front discs. It was possible to lock the rear brakes, but only under really severe braking. I am currently installing an under floor master cylinder using an MBM bracket and late model dual reservoir master cylinder. I am installing residual valves also. I will not need a metering valve as I have four wheel discs so all four calipers run on the same pressure, ie. no lockup. My kit is similar to the one Plydo sold, but not identical. My kit mounts the inner wheel bearing on the spindle, not on the spacer. My caliper brackets are laser cut, not flame cut.

I've dropped my price back to $200 including shipping which makes them competitive, if not the lowest priced kit out there. I've bought all the parts to do the conversion for less than $200 which makes the job $400 or less if you shop carefully. I love these old Mopars, but they had some really dicey brakes, and adjusting them was a world class effort. Discs are simple, work well and do not detract from the car's original feel and style.....they don't swerve or fade either. Christmas is coming, order early, I need the money for Mama and daughter to have a good holiday!!!

[rustbucket]

I'll start begging the wife now. I will be in touch soon!

[dezeldoc]

Olddaddy, I notice in your kit you use chevy cailpers where scarebird uses E body ones, I believe the chevy are a lot less expensive than the mopar ones and a lot eaiser to find.

[woodscavenger]

Olddaddy, with your added dual chamber cylinder are you having to move the steering box as shown on your web page?

[John Mulders]

Thanks Norm,

I hope my lack of the right lingo is not the problem

In normal use the rear breaks don't lock up but when I tested (after the installation of the discbrakes I took the car to an empty parkinglot) just to see whether it worked (yes) and whether it did something unpredictable (not).

I am totally happy with the current setup from Charlie.

Now only find time to drive and enjoy !

John

[Don Coatney]

he recently said he's put over 10' date='000 miles on his P15. [/quote']

Norm;

Closer to 20,000 miles. Nineteen thousand nine hundred ninety nine and six tenths were all done on the road. I estimate four tenths were done on my driveway.

I do not have a perportioning valve and I am using the stock (one barrell) master cylinder.

[Olddaddy]

The bracket I am using mounts the master cylinder under the floor in it's original location. I am running an automatic, so there is no provision for a clutch pedal. My bracket came from MBM brakes, they have a website. I traded for it at a swap meet, so I don't know much more about it than it looked right. ECI and MP Brakes both have brackets.

The MC picture on my web page is on a 52 Dodge pickup truck which mounts the MC on the bell housing face. It required shifting the steering box forward about 1/2" or so. That is not necessary, or possible on a car.

[Norm's Coupe]

The bracket I am using mounts the master cylinder under the floor in it's original location. I am running an automatic, so there is no provision for a clutch pedal. My bracket came from MBM brakes, they have a website. I traded for it at a swap meet, so I don't know much more about it than it looked right. ECI and MP Brakes both have brackets.

The MC picture on my web page is on a 52 Dodge pickup truck which mounts the MC on the bell housing face. It required shifting the steering box forward about 1/2" or so. That is not necessary, or possible on a car.

ECI makes the bracket and dual master cylinder to fit in the original position. Don't know the cost, I used my old single one as they didn't have it when I made the switch. Plus, my old master cylinder was just rebuilt at the time and saw no reason to put a new one in.

[mikesinky]

i bought the kit from plydo for my 50 b2b pu and am having a hell of a time trying to get the brake pedal to work. i have the original motor and fluid drive trans and the problem is when i mounted the mc it puts the brake pedal right in line with the clutch pedal. i might have to stop by tomorrow after work and see if he has some different brackets or something.

[makkelsay]

sooooooo i got rotors from an 80 lebaron

the correct seals,bearings and such

went to put the rotor on and with the bearing and seal in place it wont even make it to seat on the axle

is there something im missing about the kit when ya piece it together?

kinda sucks i just wasted a seal and rotor unless i get it out cause even working at AZ doesnt mean i get my money back ha

[makkelsay]

oh wait...i just read scarebirds instructions on their site....says something about spacers

hmmm i might not be screwed after all...guess i need to just order the kit...

but why wont the smaller bearing fit over my spindle

[dezeldoc]

Why did you not go with olddaddy for the kit? scarebird kit sucks, i know from experience.

[Big_John]

Why did you not go with olddaddy for the kit? scarebird kit sucks, i know from experience.

What was the problem with the Scarebird kit?

[dezeldoc]

It did not fit, brackets were bent, very poor service, pretty much called me a liar when i told him their were two styles of calipers.