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Posted

there are two sizes and will share some interchange..I am thinking if memory serves me correct that you will need the larger yoke.....I just went through this with my 3.9 and tranny for I am installing in the 51 wagon...the front yoke is available through Spicer supplier..rather expensive though...if you could measure your tailshaft diameter and spline count as the 5 spd may differ from the A500..I have a couple front yokes at the house...cannot recall which though..

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Posted

knuckleharley:

I know you're right! I was thinking that a modified Slant 6 my be kinda cool too! Of course at my current (143 hours so far and 2 years), I'll be very old before I get to stick something in there.

Gary

Posted (edited)

Tim the yoke is 27 splines. I have no idea of the diameters but will measure tonight.

*** Ok now it's measured***

- 27 splines

- dia over splines some 1.177 " (output shaft)

- overall dia of yoke could be something like 1.571" determined by the seal I/D

I was able to locate this place in Brea CA that has the flywheel http://www.standardflywheels.com/partsearch_p4.php

Now i'm waiting for them to answer will they ship overseas.

Edited by Fireball
Posted

Things are rolling slowly ahead, I just got confirmation from Standard flywheels that they'll ship the flywheel for me. So now it's down to find that darn yoke! And this is not a joke!

Posted

will try and get the yolks I have on hand measured tonight..are you still going to futz with header or do you wish to locate a nice set of manifolds..that would be less heat/noise and prevent future leaks that headers are notorius for. And the wiring harness? do you have the engine harness from the 50-way forward? I have some access to these parts...Last harness I got was 40.00 and I remove..surgical extraction of the harness is not hard..just a bit of time to remove the panels for access..and I recommend the rear harness for lights, fuel pump/sender etc..let me know if I can beof assistance..

Posted

Tero..the yolks I have are the large and small common to Mopar, my measurements are taken atop the splines on the output shafts at 180 degees....the smaller:

1.556 OD with 1.150 ID as measured on the output shaft of the matching tranny

the larger is a Detroit 7290 series:

1.680 OD with 1.260 ID across the matching transmission output shaft

both are 27 spine the splines are only thicker on the larger model

Posted (edited)

Tim sir, I have the harnessess and PCM already. I have to go with custom build headers now, that progress has actually already started.

Your smaller yoke Tim looks to be the right one, would you sell and ship it to me with USPS Air?

Ed your latter illustration is of the bigger NV-3500 tranny. Internet info says it has a different yoke with 30 splines but I'm not sure if that's the case. Seems strange that company would build all teh trannys with different setups. Although I know for sure that auto trannys from the same era are different than manuals by the spline amount.

On the first link the correct part is shown. Number 8 on the lower pic.

5209 7858 1 w/Man. Trans., Aisin Seiki (DDQ), Stamped 52097858

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Edited by Fireball
Posted

We have an holiday today in Finland, so I took my chances and ran into garage before wifey wakes up:p Got the whole underfloor and frame + axles, firewall etc. painted with industrial satin flat black

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Posted
We have an holiday today in Finland, so I took my chances and ran into garage before wifey wakes up:p Got the whole underfloor and frame + axles, firewall etc. painted with industrial satin flat black

You are not going to run a heater?

Posted

I see the two holes on the passenger side for the heater..would assume he has pulled it for clean up of the firewall and interior compartment...only thing throuh the fireall is the e-brake cable..and the obvious column, pedals and accelerator linkage..probably only gets a little cool in Finland..maybe only needs a candle and a coffee can

Posted
I see the two holes on the passenger side for the heater..would assume he has pulled it for clean up of the firewall and interior compartment...only thing throuh the fireall is the e-brake cable..and the obvious column, pedals and accelerator linkage..probably only gets a little cool in Finland..maybe only needs a candle and a coffee can

Your eyes are better than mine. Looked to me like the plugs were still in the firewall,like a heater had never been installed there.

Maybe it's because I am a geezer now and my circulation ain't so good,but I'm thinking a heater might be a nifty accessory to have in a car in Finland.

Posted

Tim nailed it, I just stripped everything down for painting. I have the original heater in otherwise working condition but it leaks. Dunno whether I have it redone or just swap into modern piece. I''m going with 12V anyways so a newer style heater is actually easier, no need for voltage reduction.

Maybe I'll paint the heater nice and put it into livingroom shelve, it's just so nice piece.

Actually a heater is mandatory here by the law, or some device to keep fogging away. But in our tropical climate I could live without one...

Posted

I selected my new engine color to be silver, matches nicely with black. I'm glad I inspected the freezeplugs before painting 'em over. They usually get rusty from inside, and yup one at least was so thin that a snap with a screwdriver created a hole. So I'll change those. Not a biggie but you guys can give it a wild guess are they found locally or do I have to order...

Yesterday I already ordered new clutch package from states, and an OEM O2 sensor, sometimes it's really frustrating when all the bits and pieces have to be ordered, I do not like this waiting game. Oh, also new MSD coil is on it's way somewhere.

At least it gives me time to create the exhaust and clutch linkage. or do you think there's something weird with this header?

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Posted
I selected my new engine color to be silver, matches nicely with black. I'm glad I inspected the freezeplugs before painting 'em over. They usually get rusty from inside, and yup one at least was so thin that a snap with a screwdriver created a hole. So I'll change those. Not a biggie but you guys can give it a wild guess are they found locally or do I have to order...

Since you have to order them anyhow,order brass ones.

BTW,have you checked with any local marine suppliers to see if they have brass ones that will fit? If they are the right size,they are the right size. You buy them by size,not application.

Posted
Since you have to order them anyhow,order brass ones.

BTW,have you checked with any local marine suppliers to see if they have brass ones that will fit? If they are the right size,they are the right size. You buy them by size,not application.

Sure I did, but the sad fact is that the guys behind the counter are not that anxious to lookup. No real customer service trying to find parts if one can't tell himself by the model and year = pops out from their screen in 5 sec.

Ofcourse I could order correct freezeplugs for example from southern Finland U.S cars spezialised shops, but most of the time I get half the price overseas, even with shipping etc. Especially stuff that does not weight a ton.

Like yesterday I went in to buy spark plugs for my V6. I had part numbers ready from NGK, Denso and Bosch. It turned out that their numbering was different (US/Europe), and since none of the cars imported in Finland by stealership came with this 3.9 magnum engine, they told me plugs have to be ordered. They were not able to interchange none of those numbers. Fair enough I told the guy that ok I'll take then 6 pieces of '98 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.2L spark plugs. Problem solved he found them immediately, and yes it is the same candle...:D

This weeks pricing examples:

Clutch kit, local quotations were $700,- or $350,- with 2 months waiting time. I got it from States $230,- shipped to my door.

O2 sensor, local quotation $196,- for OEM, I ordered from States $70,- shipped to my door.

Posted

Today I made the right side header, quite easy fix compared what the other will be. Just some grinding from here and there and I was able to slide the header in place from below the frame. Tight fit it is but I gotta live with that.

Tomorrow it's time to figure out the left header, it'll be a puzzle

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Posted

Fireball....

At least you are doing the right thing by keeping mopar in a mopar....... I love modifications, and am not a purist in any sense of the word, however, just about the only thing I hate seeing is someone with a gorgeous merc with a chebby in it, or a mopar with a chebby in it...... if you want to upgrade the motor..... fine, just leave the same companys motor in it..... but of course, that is my opinion.....

Allan

Posted

Here's one for Frankie, not that much room between the fender, starter, clutch linkage and steering...

Enough challenge I admit, but hey guys "Tight" is my middle name:D

The second shot is clear, it shows you my headers. And by the third pic I already felt like surgeon

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Posted

There's lurking the collector mocked up in place, where it's possible to go ahead with exhaust itself. All the time one has to think that it'll be removable, and not blocking any critical accesses, pedals, linkage lines etc.

At this point it was clear that I'm forced to go with 2-1 design with cylinders 1 and 3, there really was not room for three tubes. Well since this is not a performance oriented project, it's fine.

Rear tube needed to be raised over the steering

And voila here you have a perfectly sitting custom header for modern Mopar magnum engines in a D-24 application.

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Posted

I finished the welds in a homemade Jig, trying to avoid the flange to warp from heat. It worked and all it needs now is some hitemp paint?

Maybe not the prettiest, but works and is at least unique:p

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