blasted fenders!

[Plymouthy Adams]

I have no clue what type of primer was (now gone) on the wagon but it was forevermore some tough stuff and resisted sandblasting to no end...this car has sat since 1966 and has been painted at least twice between new and then..one good smack in the right rear also over that short time...original black, to a green and then to another shade of green with the tough butt primer between the green coats..I bet I was three hours blasting the front fenders inside and out...got only the rear left to do...maybe Thursday as tomorrow will acid wash day for these...

[JerseyHarold]

Probably lead-based paint and primer from back then. Do you wear a respirator while blasting?

[Plymouthy Adams]

wore the mask, 3M style with disposable cartridges.....the silca is murder also...when blasting they be sorta short lived...plus the best part is I am out of doors in the back yard away form things..

[55 Fargo]

I have no clue what type of primer was (now gone) on the wagon but it was forevermore some tough stuff and resisted sandblasting to no end...this car has sat since 1966 and has been painted at least twice between new and then..one good smack in the right rear also over that short time...original black, to a green and then to another shade of green with the tough butt primer between the green coats..I bet I was three hours blasting the front fenders inside and out...got only the rear left to do...maybe Thursday as tomorrow will acid wash day for these...

Must Be baked-on Rustoleum primer, could it be some type of industrial enamel primer, it wouldn't be lacquer based, as that would no doubt strip off easily.

I was stripping paint in the area in behind the A pillar along in behind the fender area, original Black Paint, was only painted once, but this paint and primer was very tough to strip...........Fred ps, maybe that primer could have been left on for a super tough base primer

[Young Ed]

I've heard OD is like that. Maybe it was brush painted-that usually gets in on there thick

[Plymouthy Adams]

I just finished the acid wash ahead of the rain..actually the last part of the fender was finished wiped in the building..got a nice shower..one of them where the sun was still shining to beat the band..

[Plymouthy Adams]

Rain is passed..dragged them back out of the building for an inspection on the wipe down etc. as I had to hurry it along..got a ding or so here and there over the years..solid though..real solid..

 

 

 

Edited May 20, 2017 by Plymouthy Adams

[Plymouthy Adams]

primered today..this is rustoleum rusty metal primer..excellent first coat for bare metal..mix is 50/50 paint and reducer and no it is not prone to run..lays on very nicely..

 

 

 

Edited May 20, 2017 by Plymouthy Adams

[JerseyHarold]

Can you use any kind of finish paint over the rustoleum primer?

[55 Fargo]

Can you use any kind of finish paint over the rustoleum primer?

This primer has been used by Tim and others, myself included.

Its a base primer, like an epoxy primer, you the do your filler, either lacquer based primer surfacer, or what I have been using 2 k urethane high build primer/surfacer. Its the primer surfacer you block to perfection before laying on the topcoats.

I have found the rusty metal primer, does sand okay, just not like a nice primer/surfacer.

It has excellent adhesion properties, excellent corrosion resiatnce, all of what 2 k epoxy primer is used and known for.

Hope that helps............Fred

[Plymouthy Adams]

Yes you can put finish coats over this..the only thing to keep in mind is that the Rustoleum primer be totally cured. The fish oil that is in the product that neutralizes the rust it is designed to cover an protect will rise to the surface if not absorbed by rust. this has to cook off per say..that is why Rustoleum primer has a tacky feel for a few days..this oil is evaporating. Once cured you will be amazed at the ease this stuff will sand and the beautiful smooth finish you will have. I do topcoat this primer but only on inside compartments like trunk, under hood and inner fenders and frames etc. The body of the car will require lots and lots of blocking. You block the Rustoleum once then prime with standard lacquer based or 2k product of your choice in a primer or primer surfacer. It usually will take lots of blocking to get a car ready for topcoat..antoher noter of interest to all who may consider using this product..if you intend to seal any area with 3M seam sealer or like product..it will not set and cure on the Rustoleum..be sure to spray your lacquer primer over that area then brush on your sealer..these are the little things that I have found over the years and have been using this base primer on all cars and trucks since 1984..I was given this method from a person who worked at a very high end European performance car resto shop..it is the process they used at that time..with the advancement with 2k..it is hard to say what they may use today.

It shares no properties with Epoxy primer as stated above..that is apples and oranges. If your applied Rustoleum did not sand super smooth..it is not cured properly..you pushing your product beyond its limit by disturbing it early in its curing process..