How do I get my engine out!

[fadingfastsd]

Hey guys,

I've been working on pulling my original 218 to swap in the rebuilt one I picked up.

I'm stuck right now though...I cannot get the damn engine out!

I have disconnected every single hose or wire attached to the engine, all of the linkages on the transmission. All the motor mounts are loose as well.

I removed the radiator and cut the cross bar out so I have plenty of room.

However, I cannot get the damn engine out. It is completely loose, and will lift up and move around freely side to side and up and down. If I pull forward on the cherrypicker, the engine just will not come forward!

The driveshaft will not completely seperate from the transmission, but it is loose enough I don't feel like it is whats holding the engine back.

It seems like the trans is getting wedged in between the trans crossmember and the floorpan...is this the case? What am I missing? Do I need to cut out the floorpan around the trans hump to get this thing out? I was trying to avoid that because the floor is very solid.

Thanks!

Evan

[Dennis Hemingway]

When we pulled my engine out of my P15 we droped the trans first then the engine came out without too many problems. The main problem was that we were too lazy to remove the hood.

Dennis:D

[Don Coatney]

The driveshaft will not completely seperate from the transmission,

Why????

[PatS....]

You have to unbolt the u-joint from the trans, it's not a slipjoint like newer cars.

If the driveshaft is still attached, that's why it won't come out.

[fadingfastsd]

The joint cover (not sure what to call it...held on to the 4 studs of the trans with nuts) has seperated, and is loose from the trans. But there does not seem to be enough play in the driveshaft to get it off the trans completely.

[JIPJOBXX]

:Why don't you just pull oft the transmission? You seem to have removed the four nuts that secure it to the bell housing. All you would haft to do is take the rear u-joint apart by the reas end and wala the drive shaft will fall out of the transmission and then the transmission will fall out of the bell housing. Then it should have all kinds of room!!!!

[steveplym]

The joint cover (not sure what to call it...held on to the 4 studs of the trans with nuts) has seperated, and is loose from the trans. But there does not seem to be enough play in the driveshaft to get it off the trans completely.

On my car the driveshaft is held on by four bolts at the rear and four studs coming off the back of the transmission. You can't get the driveshaft off without removing the rear bolts first. You may have u-joints, so all you would need to do is remove the u bolts that hold the joints onto the rear differential.

Then the shaft should come down and you can pull it off of the trans studs.

[fadingfastsd]

OK I've got an update.

Got the driveshaft off! whew!

Engine is still not coming out....

It is definitely the trans being stuck between the trans crossmember and the floorpan.

So it looks like I need to remove the trans from the bellhousing.

You said its just four bolts? I'll go take a look. Is there anything special I should know, or it really will just slide off the bellhousing?

Thanks guys.

Evan

[steveplym]

OK I've got an update.

Got the driveshaft off! whew!

Engine is still not coming out....

It is definitely the trans being stuck between the trans crossmember and the floorpan.

So it looks like I need to remove the trans from the bellhousing.

You said its just four bolts? I'll go take a look. Is there anything special I should know, or it really will just slide off the bellhousing?

Thanks guys.

Evan

Four bolts and the trans should just slide out of the bell housing. The top bolts can be tricky, but with a long extension you should be able to get them out without much trouble.

[steveplym]

To assist in the removal and installation of the transmission you may want to use some headless guide bolts or pins.

Remove a bolt and replace with a guide bolt or pin, one at a time. Edit: (2 lower, and upper right worked best for me) Will help it come out straight until you clear the release bearing and clutch disc.

That is a really good tip Shel. I wish I would have done that going out and going back in. Would have really helped going back in.

[Frank Blackstone]

Just peel up what floor covering you have and unscrew the bolts holding down the floor pan. This is a must due thing when you are messing with a transmision if you want to do it the EASY way. All will be revealed, Frank

[fadingfastsd]

Hey guys, got the engine out!

Pulled 4 bolts on the trans, slid it off, and pulled it right out.

One last question, how do I get the speedo cable off the trans?

And when I put the new engine in, should I pull the new trans as well?

What do I have to do to reinstall the trans correctly once the new engine is in the car?

Thanks again for all the help and tips, I was getting really frustrated.

Here's a few pics:

[steveplym]

The speedo cable is just screwed on the side of the trans, should screw right off.

I would pull the new trans out when I put it back in, will make it easier to install. Make sure you loosen the pressure plate bolts a bit so the clutch disk can move when you install the trans. Good idea is to take your clutch alignment tool and leave it in there while you install the engine, then once it is mounted all you have to do is pull it out and it should be in alignment with the shaft and pilot bearing. Make sure the input shaft goes thru and into the pilot bearing.

Use the tips Shel posted above here and that will make the process easier. Make sure you tighten the pressure plate back up once it is installed. Last time I tightened the pressure plate up to the flywheel and then tried to install the engine in the car. Had lots of problems getting the trans back in and almost damaged the clutch disk. If I would have used my brain and picked up a tip like Shel just said it would have been a lot easier.

[JIPJOBXX]

Great you got it out!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

That clutch alignment tool can be bought at a good car parts store. It is used to aliened the pilot shaft of the clutch plate center to the pilot bearing located in the center of the fly wheel. If you do not do this when you do go to install the transmission you will have hell to pay for. That clutch plate hast to be aligned with that bearing on the fly wheel or the transmission will never go in. Use the stud idea also as it does make it easy to handle when the transmission is up in place and your trying to get it back into the bell housing. Good Luck!!!!

[boxer_inv]

Great photos! - well done.

Nothing like a grease monkey giving the 'thumbs up' after some perspiration and effort, eh?

and Shel - really good tips and photos to assist. Nice one.

This thread (and one of my own regarding a fuel tank leak) is a prime example of why this forum is just - THE BEST. Free no-nonsense, well informed and good intentioned advice for the beginner and expert alike.

Evan might agree with me when I say that most of us 'newbies' would be "up the proverbial waterway without a propulsion device" without all of this information and advice. Great stuff!

[dezeldoc]

If the clutch is in on the new motor all you should have to do is remove the trans and then reinstall it. Unless you hit the throw out arm enough to disengage the disc (witch I doubt you would) it should go back with no problem, just make sure to put it into gear so you can turn the tailshaft to align the splines.

[BobT-47P15]

Hello Evan. Glad you got the motor out. I see the previous owner

had painted the block.....but the bottom was a little dirty. Typical

thing, I think. Just keep asking questions when necessary......

Good luck on the project. Bob

[laynrubber]

I got mine pulled last night by myself without too much trouble. I found there was more clearance with the starter removed and the hood latch assembly removed.

[blueskies]

I was able to pull my engine and transmission in one piece by myself, but it was a chore.

When I put it back in, I did so without the transmission. Not so sure this was easier, because getting the transmission back in from the bottom by myself was a mutha...

Pete

[fadingfastsd]

Great photos! - well done.

Nothing like a grease monkey giving the 'thumbs up' after some perspiration and effort, eh?

and Shel - really good tips and photos to assist. Nice one.

This thread (and one of my own regarding a fuel tank leak) is a prime example of why this forum is just - THE BEST. Free no-nonsense, well informed and good intentioned advice for the beginner and expert alike.

Evan might agree with me when I say that most of us 'newbies' would be "up the proverbial waterway without a propulsion device" without all of this information and advice. Great stuff!

I agree with all of the above!

[JerseyHarold]

When I swapped motors in my '52, I removed the hood, transmission and radiator and the engine came out fairly easily. For the installation, I think I raised the rear wheels and left the fronts on the ground to give a better angle (didn't have a tilter). I rested the trans on a garage jack (one of those skinny ones with wheels and a long pump handle), put it in gear to spin for the splines, and used cut-off bolts with slots for alignment. Went back together without too much muss and fuss.

Harold

[Powerhouse]

WOW...I DIDN'T KNOW ABOUT THE TOOL YOU NEED TO SLIDE THE TRANNY BACK IN THE BELL. I JUST SLIDE IT IN SLOWLY AND IT WENT IN....EVENTUALLY. TOOK ME ABOUT A HALF HOUR TO PUT MY 36 OD IN WITH THE FLOOR PANS OUT AND MYSELF STRADDLING THE TRANNY( NOT THAT KINDA TRANY) AND PUSH/LIFTING IT INTO PLACE. WHAT A PAIN!

GLAD TO SEE YOUR MOVING RIGHT ALONG fadingfastsd...MAYBE I'LL SEE YA ON THE ROAD SOMETIME. SOUNDS LIKE YOUR HAVING FUN WITH ALL THE PERFORMANCE BELLS AND WHISTLES.

[blueskies]

....WITH THE FLOOR PANS OUT AND MYSELF STRADDLING THE TRANNY....

Unfortunately, the floor pan on the later model Plymouths (49-52) does not come off over the transmission. The removeable section is only on the driver's side. The transmission has to be installed from the bottom... Took me several hours to get mine in place, finally had to strap it to my floor jack to get it up off the garage floor while under the car.

Pete

[Powerhouse]

OH...THAT STINKS...I guess that's why it was such a hassle when I helped a few guys in my club reinstall his p20 engine...it took them a while to get the tranny back in...and they didn't take the floor up....

[fadingfastsd]

Unfortunately, the floor pan on the later model Plymouths (49-52) does not come off over the transmission. The removeable section is only on the driver's side. The transmission has to be installed from the bottom... Took me several hours to get mine in place, finally had to strap it to my floor jack to get it up off the garage floor while under the car.

Pete

Ya I was gonna say that.

I pulled up the carpet b/c everybody was saying to remove the floor pan.

But it was definitely not removable over the trans. Only the drivers side floorpan under the pedals was removable.