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Hello group - Thought I would post some pictures of a project I've been working on with my 49 Dodge. Looking at some old spare parts I had hanging around the garage and decided to make use of some of them. Initially I was planning to make some headers for my 230 using an old set of SB Chevy Sanderson headers I've had for a while. Then I decided to make a header / intake combo with a Rochester 2bbl I had lying around. As all projects seem to go I decided multiple carbs was the way to go for better fuel distribution. Thinking through this further, I wanted to use Tom Langdon's Weber 32's as my carbs of choice. Hopefully I can share (remember) all the things I did correctly, pitfalls I encountered, and mistakes I made (there were a few). First was to cut a plate to act as a flange, I chose 3/8" steel. Note: Purchase a good holesaw for this and use a drill press.

Hi all. Noticing something new today. My carb is "damp" with fuel. Not just one place. See pix. Leak, or a mist overflowing from above? Any experience with this condition?

Hello In the forum, you have a good experience on straight height motor so if you could help me, it will be wonderful. i restore a Chrysler convertible Town and country 1946 but I have not the carburetor Stromberg initially mounted , I think to take a Carter 1bbl with adaptator but I have also to take all the other parts air filter, dashpot, …, could you help me to do the best choice with the picture of manifold attached thanks domi

While I'm waiting on the machine shop to get back to me on what needs to be done to the 230 cid motor, I thought I'd experiment with carburetion. I will be using the larger "Power Pack" intake that came with the motor, which came from the factory with the 2bbl Stromberg WW carb, which @Loren really likes. I had earlier purchased Langdon's Stovebolt Weber clone 32/26 2bbl carb for another project, and it's still new in the box. Everyone who has installed the Langdon carb seems to really like it. I was trying to look up the CFM numbers for both to compare, but with no luck. Assuming I did a clean and rebuild of the Stromberg, which carb would be a better choice? This will be used in my '40 Plymouth wagon - no racing, just regular driving.

Hi, recently purchases 47 club coupe, here is my problem..bxvd 3 leaking from plunger over dash pot, carb looks like it was recently rebuilt, engine seems to be running fine any suggestions why, or how to correct this? Possibly just a adjustment or do i need to rebuild ?

Hi, recently purchases 47 club coupe, here is my problem..bxvd 3 leaking from plunger over dash pot, carb looks like it was recently rebuilt, engine seems to be running fine any suggestions why, or how to correct this? Possibly just a adjustment or do i need to rebuild ?

Hi Everybody, I have a misfiring problem on my D22. When the engine is on higher rpms i have a misfire so the car wouldn't go faster than 45 to 50 miles. It also has not full power on full accelaration. First I thought it was the braker, so I installed a new on, including finger, distributor cap, wires and spark plugs, but it didn't solve the problem. Then I tried an electronic ignition but it won't be better. Then I thought it may be a fuel problem and rebuilt the carburator but nothing happened. By the time I installed a new carburator, new fuel pump, new rebulilt distributor, new fuel filter and checked vaccum and all that stuff. Now I run out of ideas. When I check timing it seems to be everything ok but the marks jump a little bit. Then I remenbered a post, that I didn't find anymore saying it may be a problem of a worn timing chain that could affect the timing in higher rpms. I'm not sure if this could affect the misfiring in higher rpms. Did anyone heard about that or have another idea? Thanks a lot Kai

Hello Everybody, I just tried to make a tune up when suddenly the engine shut down. I tried to start again but nothing happend exept. The I took the air cleaner off and saw that the linkage from the fast idle cam ob the carburator was loose. To my surprise, the hole axle were the idle cam and the linkage is fixed isn't there. I looked under the car and found nothing and I really can't remember how the axle is constructed. My manual didn't show anything either. So I uninstalled the carburator and I see nothing but a hole. There's no thread or anything what could hold the axle. Now I'm a little bit afraid, that the axle normally is pressed into the carburator and it's got loose however and the part is sucked into the engine. (Pleeeeeeease say that this couldn't happen!) However does anybody has a solution to this? I don't want to pull off the head just to look if the littel piece has found it's way through the engine...

Hi All; I am looking for jetting charts for our truck carbs. I found some specifics in the Chrysler Industrial engine manual but I am unsure if this data is valid for the non stationary engines. I am looking for specific Carter jet numbers for the various model B & Bs that our trucks came equipped with and perhaps a master jet size list or chart. Data on Strombergs would be welcome too. Maybe we could pool all our info in this one spot. If you have any of this data could you please post it here? Thanks, Jeff

After all the work I have done on the Woodie, I have been driving it around as much as possible to get ready for the 300+ miles down to Dana Point this weekend. I have made similar trips in the Woodie several times. I drove down to Morro Bay today, about 25 miles away, where I tanked up and drove home. It has been running fine, but today, at the end of my trip, I stopped at a light and then it just died. Wouldn't start for anything, acted like it was flooded (which it was). Fortunatly I was on a shallow hill, so I rolled forward and was able to start by popping the clutch. Had the keep the RPM up to prevent stalling. It died in front of my garage. Later, I tested the timing, which was still good, but It wouldn't maintain idle for very long and I noted raw gas pouring out below the carb. It was coming from the throttle valve (butterfly). So, it actually was flooding and if I let the RPMs get low enough, it would kill the engine. Since the car has been running fine, I thought maybe the needle and seat were the issue. I pulled the carb off the car and popped the top to inspect and I pulled the needle and seat. Sure enough, I could see some particles in the seat, so I used carb cleaner and blew out the seat. The N&S look OK, but there is a fair amount of debris in the bowl. I don't know if I can get a rebuild kit here before Friday, when I am due to take off. I rebuilt the carb a couple years ago, which is probably only about 4,000 miles and I replaced the inline filter at the time. I was surprised at the amount of junk in the bowl. I did recently let the gas get very low because I was considering dropping the tank to clean part of the chassis, but decided against it. To what extent can I disassemble and clean the carb with carb cleaner and compressed air and re-assemble without a rebuild kit? The major gaskets all look good. I don't have a new accelerator pump or any of the internal parts. I am running a Carter B&B one barrel. Just plain stock.