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Ok, so I'm having an interesting debate with my friend and mentor, an older gentleman who for the last 40 years has made his living restoring and maintaining vintage cars. When I repaired my water pump recently, he suggested I leave out the thermostat entirely when re-installing the upper radiator hose. I questioned that...because I figure the original engineers put it there for a variety of reasons besides just letting the car warm up properly on cold mornings...but I went ahead and tried it. I refilled the radiator with my usual summer mixture of 1 gallon anti freeze, 1 pint of redline water wetter and topped off by 2 gallons or so of distilled water. I've driven it on the local highways on some pretty hot days, and so far I haven't noticed any major differences in temperature. I hear from some folks who advocate running without a thermostat, claiming the faster water flow will cool better.....others say that flow needs to be restricted somewhat(by the thermostat) to allow the coolant to stay in the radiator long enough to cool properly before re-entering the water jackets. I tend to side with the latter, but I'm no engineer, so I'm curious to know what others think about this..... By the way, I'm running the stock 201 flat head 6 with stock water pump and radiator.

Few quick questions: I'm looking to upgrade my 201 to a 12 volt system and going to find a way to keep the stomp starter so that it acts as the gear engagement AND the 12 volt relay to the starter itself. Since it all works now, guessing it won't be rocket science. Does anyone know what the ignition coil circuit should look like? I understand that there are coils with an internal resistor, but also know that voltage drop is "kind" to points distributor which I am inclined to keep. Any comments or guidance would be GREAT. Secondly, if I want to clean, repaint and replace leaking gaskets therefore taking the motor out, can anyone tell me if it is necessary to remove the grill prior to pulling the motor? Thanks, MoparBoy

Can anyone tell me what year(s) and model(s) vehicle that this came from? Thanks!

Can anyone provide insights or high level guidance on removing the grille and rad on a 1933 Dodge DP6? Want to remove it prior to pulling the motor. Thanks again!

Solving unusual little problems with my '51 B3B is a saga for the ages. The latest has to do with the thermostat housing. On one hand, the correct housing for the '48 - '50 trucks has all the proper dimensions to fit my '51 properly, except it has a water bypass tube which is incorrect for my '51 (which has the internal bypass). On the other hand, I bought a brand new housing (the one on the right) that was supposed to be the answer, but it isn't for two reasons: Reason Number One: The new one doesn't point at the radiator and it causes a solid hose to kink badly. I've tried. Reason Number Two: Even worse, the outlet on the new housing is 1/8 inch wider than it should be. It does not match the radiator inlet. Both should have a 1.75 inch outside diameter. I've searched the internet for a part that looks like it will fit correctly but I have come up empty. So, unless someone on the forum has discovered the perfect solution, I'm going to have to fabricate a housing from scratch that actually fits properly including a tube that points in the right direction. I just wonder where all the original housings have gone. I've never even seen one.

Hey Guys, I'm chasing an overheating symptom. It's a 1950 230ci with external bypass. I've just started driving the truck, first couple of trips temp gauge hung around 180 degrees, was 90 outside but truck ran good. Now it's cooler out but dash gauge reads hot ~200 and up to 212 when I shut it down. Could junk have moved around and partially plugged thermostat...? ( I had pulled all freeze plugs, and water dist tube on this motor and purged tons of junk. I dumped the rad and ran water but never really flushed it as I was afraid to cause a leak. Radiator seems to burp a bit of anti freeze each time, down overflow tube - indication of something? I filled Rad to top and ran truck to see if I could see flow from the water pump, cannot see if there is flow at top fill port. Top hose is hot to the touch bottom hose is cooler. Does that indicate the the thermostat is working properly, rad is not plugged, and the water pump is working correctly? How does system work though Tstat> Does water flow into top of rad from block and out bottom of rad back into block? I used my laser temp gauge to hit all parts of the motor a couple of different times. Net is exhaust side of block is 300+ head just above is 170deg, fitting where bulb end of temp gauge is 160, all areas on head 160, block 165, top of rad 156, bottom of rad 70 antifreeze in top of rad 155. Seems the engine is actually controlling as it should? The dash gauge climbing through the roof just has me nervous. I'm trying to convince myself that the engine is running at 160 but feel like I'm missing something...anyone have a gauge run away like this? Are these gauges adjustable or able to calibrate? Any thoughts or suggestions? Best way to determine if water pump is working to verify rad has proper flow to verify thermostat working and enough flow The rad seems period correct, but it didn't bolt right in, I had to weld up a bracket - I think it's from a desoto car. the lip where the cap attaches has an overflow tube above the sealing surface, seems it should have a pressurized cap...should our engines run pressurized or not? and if so what psi? Idea why rad burps each time, maybe I have rad too full? All info welcome! thanks, J

Hey everyone. Looks like spring is finally here in Minnesota! I am wondering if anyone could share any pictures of their Cummins swaps into their Pilothouses. Mine is a 53 1.5 ton. Particularly the radiator and intercooler mounting and what radiator they are using? I see some people have done the swap and it looks like they use the stock (Really Wide) radiator and intercooler but I do not see how they fit them in. Any help would be appreciated. Scott

My B2C started running at about 180, been running 160 since the rebuilt.. I thought it was the thermostat so I got anew. one, put it in the morning. At idle it went to 212 fairly quickly,.. The top radiator tank was cool, top hose cool, bottom hose hot. Could it be the water pump. I put the old and new thermostats in hot water and they both opened about the same time.. I need help.

My P15 is running a little hot so I've been thinking about doing a rad flush with this. http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/prestone-radiator-flush-plus-cleaner-0380811p.html#srp Is it safe to use this crap in my 70 year old rad? thanks!

any tips for removing the heater would be appreciated.........thanks

A few days ago I grease the fitting on the radiator fan on my 1947 Plymouth Deluxe. Today I noticed a steady dribble of coolant coming from inside the fan housing. What is the fix, do I have to pull the entire radiator out? Not sure why this would happen only after greasing. Thanks, Chad

My wife and I just returned from the 10th Annual Woodies in the Valley show in Visalia CA yesterday but weren't sure we were going to make it home without a tow truck I've been driving the '40 Plymouth now for a couple of years and I've never had an overheating problem, including driving around in the summer at temperatures over 100°. I got the motor from an old Mopar racer who had rebuilt it, new distribution tube, etc. and it always ran like a top. It had 160° thermostat, which after reading various posts here, seemed like I was asking for sludge trouble in the future (apparently the engine doesn't get hot enough to burn off the moisture which creates problems), so I did what you're not supposed to do right before a trip and changed the thermostat to a 180° unit from Napa. Immediately the gauge registered 20° hotter which made sense. We left Saturday morning, outside temperature in the 50s, and drove 60 miles on the freeway with no issues. We had a lot of fun at the show, caught up with old friends, tc., and then caravanned through the countryside, which included driving through some small local downtown areas very slowly. Outside temps were in the low 70s. Immediately it pegged the temperature gage – I couldn't even see the needle it was so far off the scale. We pulled over and clouds of steam were coming out of the bottom area of the radiator. After cooling down we added water only, and filled it to overflowing. As I was looking among the group for some anti-freeze, a couple of the old-timers told me that unpressurized flatheads do better in hot weather with pure water rather than an anti-freeze mix. Now with more water than coolant,in the stock, honeycomb radiator, the gauge went back down to about 170° and stayed there the whole rest of the trip. I had never heard this before- I would think that adding anything to water would change its boiling point and be better. Thoughts?

My 41 flathead plym p12 special deluxe overheated and overflowed out of radiator at idle today after 15 minutes. I Fill 2 inches below cap line .. Temp gauge maxed out than stuck at high end.... is there a fix or did I break it. Any experience on this. Temp should run between 160 to 180 I have read. 50/50 coolant mix non pressure cap thermostat 160 or 180 I have a new pump and a flushed system...running too lean possible....altitude is 5000 asl in Colorado.??Thanks if anyone can help... My granpappy passed and I lost the brains of the old school mechanic.

I just purchased an in-line 1 3/4" radiator coolant filter that I believe should work on the top hose between the thermostat housing and the radiator inlet on this 218 flathead six engine. There's a few brands out there, but to my knowledge this is the only one that is small enough to insert between the radiator inlet and the thermostat housing, as the entire unit measures only 3 5/8 " wide and requires that 2" of hose be removed (cut out)..filter has removable cap for servicing.....if interested - pm me and I will share the info. I'm not connected or involved with these in any way, other than I had been trying to obtain one, but they were only available out of Australia and the shipping made them crazy high...however now there is a distributor here in Texas which brought the price way down....not trying to violate any forum rules, by advertising for anyone,...just wanting to share with folks that might have a need.. Steve

I need help please searching part #'s . My D24 parts Book show the correct radiator # to be: 973695 ( or 976211 high altitude ) The one in my car is # 947825 I pick up a spare recently, # 899092 None of my parts books, or online searches tell me what the #'s are from. Were they superseded #'s ?? Anyone with a deeper resource library would you take a look and see what I have here? Thank you

I have inherited a 1947 Dodge D25C, flat six, four door sedan (these were imported from Canada into Australia in the late 40's) that is missing the radiator. I placed a wanted add on the P15-D24 web site but after reading a number of posts on the forums I think it would be prudent to install an aluminium replacement. The problem I have found is that most radiators sites, such as Champion, have radiators for early Plymouths and not Dodges, and being in Western Australia communication with these companies can be arduous. After scouring the web and the P15-D24 site, and having little knowledge of Dodge/Plymouth build comparisons of that era, can anyone advise me if a Champion Radiator for a 1947-1949 Plymouth Coupe http://www.championradiators.com/plymouth-coup-radiator-1947-1949 would directly fit or require little modification? I'm also looking for a fuel (gas) tank, if anyone can point me to a suitable/reputable website, and a Temperature gauge. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks Rex

I am putting a radiator and the radiator U bracket back in my P15 Plymouth. There was a rectangular nut plate with two long slots in it that goes under U bracket somewhere. Does it go between the U bracket and the frame, or does it go with the two large nuts and washers inside the frame in the hole underneath?

So Ive replace the thermostat (180) and water pump and my 48 Plymouth is overheating. After about 15 mins. of warm up Im getting steam from, what appears to be, the overflow tube. I have checked for vac. leaks and timing and everything seems to be correct. I was running straight water at the time but didnt expect this after just 15 minutes. Im taking the radiator down for a flush and flow test tomorrow. Im worried they'll want to just re-core it, another $2-300 I've heard. Also wondering if I should pull the water distribution tube while the radiator is out and replace it. I did flush the system and everythings clear, which may be cause for concern if its so clogged it just flows clear water? Any tips or recommendations are appreciated!

I'm confused as to what type of housing is correct for my truck. My engine came with a straight up type housing with no bypass, but when I ordered a new hose from Roberts, they sent me a straight hose. Obviously, a straight hose won't fit between my housing and the radiator. I've searched this site and many pictures of engine compartments, and noticed many housings that appear to be quite large, with a bend in the neck, with and without the bypass. So my question is: Did they make a non-bypass housing with a bend in the neck? If so, would this be the correct housing for my truck? If not, what is? A straight housing with a bent hose? I've been searching for months now for a bent housing without a bypass, and have had worse luck than a bearded sheikh wearing a turban at an airport.