Jump to content

PT81PlymouthPickup

Members
  • Posts

    381
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Everything posted by PT81PlymouthPickup

  1. Just in case anyone's interested, I finally finished plumbing my PCV retrofit. Here's some photos. Everything seems to be working well in my shop, but I still need to road test.
  2. I just viewed almost 250 35mm slides of this project, need to get them converted to digital. Unfortunately, I do not have the wife "issue" any more, but I am anal about tracking costs. I'm with Tooljunkie! Be anal about doing the work, not keeping track of how much you spend. I want to forget how much I've spent! I used to keep receipts of expenditures and it gets depressing pretty fast. Anyhow, you're not alone. Look at the sunny-side! Most of my productive time building my truck was when I was between wives and girlfriends. If it wasn't for divorce, I would have never finished. Lols!
  3. I used a PMIC solid state linear voltage regulator which are very small and can be attached to back of gauge housing. Very inexpensive. Works perfectly. Only issue is you'll need to be able to make really small soldered connections. https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/micro-commercial-co/MC7806CT-BP/MC7806CT-BPMS-ND/804683
  4. No adapter plate! I removed the bell housing and drilled and tapped mounting holes. Might be able to that without removing bell housing? It was a project for sure on my truck. Requires and adapter ring for the transmission's input bearing housing, custom floor board, fabrication of emergency brake adapter, custom brake cables, custom driveshaft. custom speedometer cable, and a few other little things I can't remember. Was a fun project for me, but like always took me way longer than I figured.
  5. I had 4.10 originally in my truck. It was screaming at 60mph. Switched the pumpkin to 3.90 and it did help a bit for cruising. I struggled with the un-syncronized transmission, so I eventually installed a Borg Warner T5 gearbox and a 3.55 rear out of a Jeep. I'm very happy with how it drives now. Plenty of get up and go at lower speeds, no more double clutching and gear grinds. I've noticed however sometimes on a long gradual grade it doesn't pull great in 5th gear. I'm OK with it the way it is, but if I were to do it again, I would go with a 3.73. Perhaps I'll change it out at some point.
  6. Just painstakingly rebuilt my distributor in my 1939 Plymouth pickup. While doing this I found corrosion around some of the plug wires where they insert into the cap. Decided to replace them with new resistor wires which are required if I decide to convert to Pertronix ignition. Anyhow, I'm hesitant to buy anything these days. Too many cheaply made products. Can anyone recommend a company that might make a high quality set for my truck? Preferably Not made in China?
  7. I agree Dodgeed! You've got a really nice truck. Beautiful! And, I totally respect your choices. If she were mine, I would go with all black tires. Just seems to me wide whitewalls are more appropriate for vintage luxury cars. I'm wondering if any of our trucks came from the factory with whitewalls? Sorry! Not meaning to be critical.
  8. Ed I couldn't agree more! Red and Black rules! Lols!
  9. My wife left me shortly after she found out how much I paid to have mine painted. Lols! Well, there were other issues, but that bill sure didn't help. If I look at it practically, considering time, effort, and money, my truck is a big loser. But, for me anyhow, it's not about that. It's about having and driving history with a cool factor. Your new truck is cool no matter how much you paid.
  10. Wow! That truck is sweet! Is she as good as it looks in the photo? I know it breaks all rules of etiquette, but I'd sure like to know what these trucks sell for? Then I can tell my son How much to ask for mine after I kick the bucket. Lols!
  11. Kind of like converting a military Humvee to a Hummer h3, which is nothing but a Chevy Tahoe. Please don't do it! ?
  12. The manual is not totally clear - I wondered myself which measurement they were indicating, but I'd say they are talking about "side play", or lash (if I have the correct term). The holes you need to drill are in case the bushings do not have oiling holes, or if they do not line up. I am including both sections from the manual I have (P15 thru P20 service guide): Thanks a bunch Eneto! This is just what I was hoping to find. It states more than .008" on either axis is too much. That tells me .001 or .002 should be just fine. I very much appreciate you taking the time to post that for me. ?
  13. Thanks for the reply Rich, I'm installing an NOS shaft. It does not have a hole. I can set it up to drill accurately in a milling machine, but to position correctly I need to know what the end play is supposed to be. I checked two old distributors. One measured .018 the other .025. That seems like too much to me? I'm familiar with working with the peened pins, but I was wondering if a roll pin could be used? I'm guessing the peened pins are a lot less likely to come loose?
  14. Thanks Eneto! Are you referring to side play or end play? I've installed a new shaft and bushings. It now measures with indicator .001 side play at top of distributor. Now I need to drill the new shaft for the retaining collar. depending on where I drill it, will determine the end play. I can't seem to find a spec. on that. To clarify, I'm referring to the clearance or movement in line with the shaft.
  15. Anyone know what the spec is for distributor shaft end-play on our flathead 6's?
  16. Thanks Ken! I have an earlier distributor. It has a different hold down clamp then the one in your photo. Mine does have some additional adjustment but it's limited due to a grease cup that will hit the side of the block if rotated too far. With options of oil pump gear, rotating wire locations, and the hold down clamp being adjustable, I'm certain I'll get it right, but this sure can be confusing!
  17. Thanks 9 foot! That sounds logical. I was not certain of the tooth count. 360/12=30 degrees for each hour of the clock. Fairly close to 36 degrees. Sounds plausible that my pump might be out by one tooth? I guess I'll find out when I get the distributor rebuild finished and see how it works out.
  18. Yes Thanks Ken! I agree that the last step could have been omitted. I was hoping someone may know roughly how much rotation at the distributor would occur if the oil pump is moved by one tooth? I'm being lazy and hoping not to pull the pump and find out I didn't have to.
  19. Thanks 9 foot! I'm pretty sure mine is in correctly? With #1 piston @ TDC compression stroke my distributor rotor is pointing close to the proverbial 7 o'clock position, but it's off a bit. More like 8 o'clock. I'm wondering if a one tooth rotation on the oil pump could correct that?
  20. Thanks JB! Sending out for a rebuild would be last resort for me, but it's good to know that there are some outfits that do quality work. Very, very hard to find these days.
  21. Thanks Merle! It could be used, but the housing and mounting flange is different which locates the vacuum advance and oil cup in a funky position. I would have to remake the vacuum line too and although it probably would work just doesn't look right. Did I mention I'm too fussy for my own good! Lols!
  22. Does anyone know by roughly how much will the distributor rotate in degrees or fraction of rotation (1/16, 1/8, 1/4, etc) when the oil pump is indexed by one tooth? My distributor is pointing at 8 o'clock. I'd like to adjust it a bit if possible?
  23. Does anyone know by changing one tooth at the oil pump, how much rotation at the distributor is affected? In degrees or fraction of rotation (1/16, 1/8, 1/4 etc)? My rotor currently points at 8 o'clock.
  24. Yes, I agree. Some vehicles should be kept original as possible. I am a purist at heart. My truck was a basket case when we first started working on it. So, I don't feel too bad about upgrading some things. All modifications have been made so that it could be returned to stock. I have saved all the original parts as well. I have respect for the fabrication skills and engineering talent some street rodder's have, but it really irritates me when they take a beautiful original car and cut it up. Should be a law they have to use junk yard bodies. Lols!
  25. I let an old timer mechanic friend of my dad drive my truck prior to installing the T5. He could shift the thing flawlessly. He could even shift it without using the clutch somehow by speed, sound, and feel? I swear it to be true. Left to my own devises, I was going to make gear soup out of the thing. The horrible sound of grinding gears! Yikes!
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use