PT81PlymouthPickup

Adam, it sounds like you're not a fan of Pertronix modules? Lols!

Thanks for posting this maok! It appears this confirms what you said in earlier post. I will need a 3 ohm coil to eliminate the resistor. They list some options in both chrome and black. I can't seem to find this table at their website and some of the coil #s don't show up there either? Did you just get this from the website? Did I mention I'm a luddite?

That's what I use as well. Works well and no more oil running all over my frame.

Yes, I agree. It seems fairly clear, except for the word "most"? What's not clear to me, is why they include the option to install the module with a ballast resistor even though they suggest to install the module without it? I do not want the ballast resistor in the circuit. That's just another thing that can fail. I'm planning on keeping it on the firewall, just in case I ever need to re-install the points (In case of EMP from solar storm or nuclear war) Lols! In my simple mind, without the ballast resistor the only difference would be a few more volts going to the + coil terminal. My coil has worked flawlessly for many years but has been operating on around 9 volts or less with the resistor. I want to be absolutely sure about the right way to install this thing. I don't want to be one of those guys who didn't, and a ruined a $166 module. I'm going to contact Pertronix and see what they say. I read today Pertronix sells several different coils having different impedance's. Must be a reason?

Hi Jeff, The only reason I have been hesitating purchasing the coil from them is it has a different diameter then the bracket on my firewall was designed for. The coil I have is 2.250" in diameter. I believe their coils are 2.5" which won't fit? I'm trying to keep things looking stock. Not always easy.

It's been a very long time, but I remember it being a bit tricky getting these steering boxes setup correctly. Mine has an early Gemmer 1 which uses a sector shaft and worm gear. There are internal shims and cam adjustment needed to get it just right. I think you can fine tune it from the outside? I also think just a small amount of drag in the centered strait ahead position is preferable, but too much drag will damage the components. Lubrication is important as well. Originally designed for heavy weight oil 90w but the seals almost always leaked so most mechanics would fill with greases. I would refer to a Mopar or Motor manual for your specific year vehicle for the correct procedure. Be careful, I know if improperly adjusted can damage them. On vehicles this age, it's also very possible the sector shaft and worm are just worn out.

Thanks maok! Pertronix suggests removing the ballast for "optimum performance". Is this just a marketing ploy to get us to buy their coil? Or is their some performance benefit by using their 3 ohm coil? So, if I were to hook it up with the 1.5 ohm coil I have without the ballast what would happen? Overheat the coil?

Photos loaded out of order. 3rd photo from top was how it was wired for points. Sorry!

It's Sunday and they're not open. So, I'd thought I'd bug some of you electrical experts here. ? I know the topic Pertronix or not to Pertronix? has been hashed over time and time again. Well after reading here and elsewhere and talking to some local car guys my consensus (so far) is; it's a good product if installed correctly. I really liked the slant 6 conversion, but was just more work and I did not want to hang another control box on this vehicle. I've taken the Pertronix plunge! I consider myself a fair mechanic, but I have to admit weakness when it comes to the electrical side of things. Anyhow, I converted to 12v system long time ago. I've read the directions that came with my Pertronix Ignitor II #92563LS about a dozen times. The mechanical part of the install is going OK, but I did not like how much stress the wires were under if I routed them through the existing opening (as they suggest)in my IGS series distributor. I'm machining a new hole at a more appropriate position and adding a grommet. My confusion is pertaining to the ballast resistor that I have been using for my points. The instructions recommend removing ballast resistors from the circuit for optimum performance, but offer a alternative installation to retain it. The only difference I can figure is that without it, there will be a few more volts going to the coil? I'm thinking about 3 or 4 volts more? I'm uncertain if that's a good or bad thing. I checked my coil resistance at 1.5 ohms. The instructions say "Ignitor II ignition can be used in conjunction with most ignition coils rated at 0.45 ohms or greater" Any expert or non-expert opinions? First photo is the way it's been wired for points and the following are how I'm thinking of doing it for the Pertronix module. I plan on keeping the ballast resistor on the firewall, just in case I have to return to the points.

Thanks guys! I've decided to go forward with the Pertronix install. I removed the eccentric screw from an extra breaker plate I had. The module fits nicely now. I think I'm going to drill a hole through the distributor body to route the wires through. On my distributor it appears this will give me a better strain relief on the wires. I'll add a round grommet and some RTV to seal. The wires from the module are not long enough to reach my coil which is mounted on the firewall. I could splice in wire for longer length, but I think adding a connector might be a more professional way to go? Would make it easier for future distributor removals. I am however having difficulty finding a good quality automotive 2 pin connector? I'm looking for one that you crimp or solder the metal parts and then lock into the plastic housings.

Wait a minute! Are you inferring our Mopar's were poorly designed? Lols!

Cool! Never heard that term before. I don't get out much. ?

Mine just turned 81 and I've been restoring it for 41 years. And! It's still not done. ?

I believe most newer vehicles run separate ground wires for just about everything?

What is a "genset"?

Hi and thanks again JBN, I thought it might be for a bracket also, but was surprised that it goes into the water jacket. The water pump bolts also go through into the water jacket on the block. I had some leaks there until I painted the threads with permatex 2.

Yeah Jerry, my battery ground strap was, and still is bolted to the transmission. I guess that would be OK? There's lots of metal to metal surfaces between trans, bell housing, and engine along with quite a few bolts. Seems more likely to have ground issues between body and chassis?

Some of the factory welds on my 39 are pretty ugly too. But more likely, if it is factory, the welder had a hangover? Lols!

While reading about distributors, I came across several posts and articles suggesting adding ground straps is a wise move? I'm considering adding a couple. One from the engine block to the cab and another from the engine block to the chassis? I'm not having any issues, but I know bad grounds were often problematic in the early automobiles. A lot of the circuitry on our trucks rely on grounds through the body. My cab is mounted with wooden blocks and rubber pads. The bolts that pass through the mounting blocks I assume is where the conductivity occurs, but with rust and sometimes newly painted surfaces could inhibit that. Our engines are also rubber mounted, so again the bolts must be where conductivity occurs. Has anyone added ground straps? Think it wise? AND!, While I was looking around for tapped holes in the block to connect to, I noticed one on the head that I could not remember (or perhaps never knew) why it's there? (I'm not talking about the one over #6 cylinder for timing). This one is about two thirds back from the front adjacent to a head bolt. I took the bolt out on an extra engine I have and it appears to go into the water jacket in the head? It was a standard thread (not pipe thread) with a star washer only. The one on my truck is the same and has never leaked. You would think this should be a pipe thread? I guess with an un-pressurized system a little permatex is all that's was needed? Anyone know what this was for and If there's any reason not to use it for a ground strap?

After long consideration, I purchased a Pertronix 92563LS Ignitor-II electronic ignition module for my truck having a IGS series distributor. I just finished rebuilding the distributor due to worn shaft, bushings, and advance governor. So, my thinking was now that it's running great, I would try the Pertronix lobe pickup to replace the points which over the years have given me some grief from oxidation due to my truck being unused for lengthy periods. I'd keep the ballast resistor (disconnected) on the firewall and an extra breaker plate with points and condenser ready to install if the Pertronix were to fail. Make sense? Anyhow, Before purchasing, I contacted Pertronix and specifically asked if any modifications were needed to install this unit. They assured me "no modification needed". Well, guess what! The unit will not mount to the breaker plate without removing the riveted in cam screw used to adjust the points. That's a modification in my opinion? Not a big deal, I have extra breaker plates I could modify, but it makes me wonder about their engineers and marketing? I contacted them and raised my concern. Their reply: " Sorry about the issue. I have been told only the IAP series distributor needed this type of modification. I'll have to send this over to the R&D department for them to look at their info again". I'm wondering if anyone here has installed a Pertronix unit in an IGS series distributor? Did it work out OK? Did it change the clocking of the distributor at all? How did you address the lead wires? The only place on these distributors for the leads to pass through is the rectangular opening where the connector for the point wire attaches. Any ideas on a rubber insulator for that opening?

Yes, the clips are the issue for me. I really want to put some wider rubber especially on the rear of my truck to fill some of that excessive space and give it a bit more eye appeal. At the same time, I would also love to keep my original Plymouth hubcaps. I guess it's just wishful thinking? I'm wondering if Mopar made any wider 16" wheels that have the clips? There are some lug centric aftermarket wheels that would work but can't use the oem hubcaps. I also have always preferred hub centric wheels. I need to make a decision soon. Although my bias ply tires still hold air, they are 25 years old and have many small cracks appearing.

Really stinks losing the experience and wisdom of old timers. Greybeard and now Don Coatney were wealth's of information on here. My father was one of those "walking encyclopedia" types whom I should have listened to more. He was brilliant even though he never finished high school. He joined the Navy during WW2. First crew aboard USS Midway CV41 where he learned aircraft hydraulics and then started an auto repair shop after the war which continued until his death. He learned and knew exactly how and why things worked and how to repair them. I keep my hand in mechanics just a bit to remember how difficult he and many of his generation had to work. Now I am an old timer And less wise than I once thought.

Thanks JBN! Very helpful. It seems to me with PCV system installed and engine at idle we should be able to sense there is some vacuum on the crankcase just by holding your hand over the fill tube? I don't feel any at my fill tube? I tried this before I plumbed the fill tube to the air filter. I know it's pulling vacuum at the valve, because I've disconnected it several times and checked with my finger. I mean we have introduced vacuum to the crankcase and it seems substantial enough at the PCV valve. I don't believe there are enough leaks through seals that it should not be discernible at the fill tube? Am I missing something? Probably my simple minded thinking again which gets me in trouble often. Lols! Now that I have corrected my distributor issue my engine is running smoothly throughout the rpm range. The PCV system I installed came off a 230 cid. engine which is probably pretty close in displacement as my earlier bored engine.

During my endeavours to find why my engine was running a bit rough at mid rpms I discovered I had worn out distributor bushings and shaft. After replacing them it now runs smoothly. I took the truck out for an hour cruise yesterday and so far (knock on wood) it's running great. I used basically the same PCV plumbing and valve that was on the 1960s military engine. I imagine it's the same as Vintagepowerwagon's sell? Anyhow, I'm not sure if the PCV system is working properly? At idle the valve clicks in and out if I disconnect it and hold my finger on and off it. I can't determine any vacuum at the oil filler tube. Seems like it should be a relatively simple system, but I still don't completely understand the nuances of how it works or how to check it? It looks pretty good though! Lols!

I agree with JBNeal. I didn't mean to sound insensitive, just trying to convey that if working on a vintage truck build, I've learned it's not healthy to focus on dollars spent. Most of us working on these old Mopars are frugal by nature, but the love of our vintage vehicles is worth much more than dollars and cents spent. I'm as "anal" as they come. I keep a journal on all the details of my truck, but I no longer focus on how much I've spent, which is way too much! I think most of us would agree owning, restoring, and mainataining our classic autos is a losing proposition when it comes to money?