Bob Riding
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Everything posted by Bob Riding
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Thanks...I have some parts cars that I may be able to steal from!
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Great pictures Jim, thanks...I think I can fab something up.
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I realized I had too many projects and a guy from Sacramento bought it to restore for his wife, as she really loved sedan deliveries.I felt good that someone was going to restore it.
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Thanks Don. Yes it has been a long restore, but after I bought it in 2003, my kids were still at home, so I put it on hold for a while (7 years!) Thanks for the pic, I think you are right, cause we know how Walter P loved to continue to use parts
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Almost done! I am 99% done with the wagon, which is a good thing since Woodies on the Wharf in Santa Cruz, is only 10 days away! My son Jeff is helping me do the final door fitment, reattach the running boards, and do the final systems check. We painted it in my shop 2 weeks ago, and I plan to take it to my cousin's tire shop on Monday to have the alignment checked and to make sure I didn't leave out some critical component. We plan to drive it to the show from home (Sanger), a 300 mile round trip, and just heard that the weather will be hot that day-107 degrees, so we will be leaving early. I need one last part and I'm not sure exactly what it looks like-it's the spare tire holder-the metal piece that rotates down on to the spare to hold it in place. Plymouth mounted the spare inset into the back of the front seat, so it's definitely unusual. Something about being more easily accessible for the ladies, I think. Any Plymouth woodie owners out there have a pic? Cheers! Bob
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Custom Classics and Rods should have what you need... http://www.ccrod.com/index2.htm They are called blind nuts and come in different head and shank sizes.
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Can't pinpoint accel/decel rattle- OD the culprit?
Bob Riding replied to Bob Riding's topic in P15-D24 Forum
I guess that's possible, however it's only got 600 miles on it.I'll investigate, thanks -
I'm going a bit crazy, trying to identify a rattle noise that sounds like it's coming from the tranny. I have a stock P10 transmission mated to one of George Asche's OD units. Everything works fine, I can get to any of the gears, acceleration is good (for a 75 year old wagon), but it always sounds like there is something loose on acceleration or deceleration, and under normal driving loads. I've sorted through other possible causes; shifting mechanism, clutch, sheet metal attachment points, parking brake cable, and fluid level in the tranny and OD, with no change. Do these OD units sound like that normally? Am I worried for no reason?
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Paul, For the exhaust, I used POR 15 engine exhaust paint, manifold gray. For the intake, POR 15 silver. It has kept it's color and hasn't rusted in 3 years of use.
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Woodie or steel wagon? There are a couple of suppliers that have lift gate,tailgate weatherstripping for the woodies (mostly Ford, but they will work)
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Yes, but I wanted a more stock look, so I ran a single
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OK, but I used kindergarten paste to hold them together
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Not quite a dual exhaust- I'm running dual Carters with a George Asche split intake and exhaust manifolds. I had a local muffler shop that had been in business 30 years and knew what they were doing, split the exhaust pipe, then combine back into a single pipe. Because of the layout of the gas tank on the woodie, they was no room for dual pipes. When I asked them about exessive back-pressure, they said that they used to do it all the time with bigger V-8s with no apparent loss of breathing capacity. They did a lot of racing work back in ancient times. Runs and sounds great. Picked up a bit of power too, compared to single carb and exhaust. With the OD, I can do 65 all day long, which is a little scary in a car made out of toothpicks!
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No, The guys' name is Ed Schutz and I don't think he has any experience with old cars.
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I've been working to get the '40 woodie on the road, and the glass from the B pillar back slides in the fuzzy tracks and uses spring-loaded pins to lock them in place. There are 4 pin knobs and 8 slide handles needed for each wagon, and they are made out of the same ivory colored plastic that the other dash knobs are. Needless to say,most are missing and none are usable. I think I found a guy that can cast them for me- he restores old radios and makes replacement radio knobs. He said the price is dependent on quantity (of course) and wanted to know approximately how many sets? I thought I'd ping you all to gauge interest, and if they are as good as his radio knobs look, we might also want to give him a few dash knobs with lettering to see what he can come up with. So, assuming the price isn't too crazy, how many folks are interested?
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I have a '40 with a '41 wood body built by the Kline Brothers in PA. The cost to build a stock wood body ( if you can find someone like the Klines, because nobody else seems to have a complete pattern), is probably $30k+ or -. USHCO aka US Body and Forging Company, did the original pre-war bodies for Chrysler, while Ford woodies, with in-house manufacturing, although having inferior mechanicals, are the most popular at auction, fetching $70-90k recently. I 've being doing a ground up resto on mine since 2003 ( ask Don C!), and including the 10 coats of varnish, OD, dual carbs, split exhaust, front disks and Coker radials, it will be nicer than alot of the existing, older restored Fords, yet command lower dollars. I would be surprised if I could get $75k out of her, but since I never plan to sell, I really don't care
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Does anyone reproduce Steering Post Covers?
Bob Riding replied to Skrambler's topic in P15-D24 Forum
You are correct - the '40 is different from the '41, which I assume is different for the '42s and the P15s. Try Gary Goers - he has a post '55 Chrysler parts business, but recently made some '40 Plymouth Steering Post Grommets for a friend and me. http://www.garygoers.com/products.html This is the '40 grommet that Gary Goers made for us This is a '41 that I purchased a few years ago- can't remember who from- some firm in L.A. that made a bunch of them 20 years ago and slowly sold them off.
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Great idea! Any Forum members in the central part of the state are welcome to come visit. I would love to see your rides. PM me if interested. Thanks Don!
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Here are some pictures of what turned out to be one of the most challenging parts of the woodie restoration- the seats. Chrysler, (and I assume most of the other auto manufacturers) subbed out the wood body tasks to other companies like Briggs, Pekin, and in the case of my wagon, US Body and Forging Company. I don't know if they also made the seats, but the construction was similar - solid dimensional lumber that was finger jointed at the corners. The unique design that Chrysler came up with was to insert the spare tire into the middle of the back of the front seat, apparently in response to their female buyers, whom they thought wouldn't want it located in some other more difficult to access location. It also had the effect of limiting the knee room of second seat passengers, but maybe because people where shorter in those days, that didn't matter so much? This was challenging to reproduce, and still have the front seat be comfortable, as half of the depth of the seat back was taken up by the spare tire. It didn't leave much room for seat springs and horsehair padding. Although I could reproduce it almost exactly, the woodwork would be hidden behind the upholstery and so I thought I would make it lighter and stronger by using 3/4 cabinet-grade plywood. I designed, what looked like to me, an ice cream sandwich, added the structural wood supports and sheet metal pieces. I then took it to Cal Fast Upholstery in Fresno to finish the seat. They sourced a vinyl that looked virtually identical to the original and using old pictures as a design aid, sculpted the seats in two different densities of foam, and recreated the stitching pattern and type (what they called French Stitch). The results were beyond my expectations. The seat is very comfortable, yet provides me with the support I need for my aging back. I had the frames powder-coated in a copper color that was a little brighter than the original, but I think contrasts well with the brown seat colors. Next topic: dual air cleaners- old style
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Thanks. I can't imagine the hours either! Luckily I had a D14 to drive, while waiting to finish the woodie. I appreciate your noticing the potential problem with the T, but I think the camera angle makes it look closer than it is. I haven't had any issues, even in the California summer heat (100+ degrees).
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Thanks for the compliments. It does take alot of work and one of the more challenging aspects is that, as you know if you are restoring an earlier Mopar, is that many parts are not repopped and available from a glossy catalog. As Jim Yergin can attest, the woodie parts are even harder to find. I've counted less than 25 - 1940 plymouth woodies in the National Woodie Club and elsewhere, so I've found that the hunt is the thing. I also found that Chrysler shared manufacturers with the other carmakers, for example, some of the woodie door hardware is exactly like the Ford parts, which makes sense, given the limited market at the time. My intent was to restore, resurrect, recreate, bring back from the dead, etc. the vehicle to as as new condition, that was safe to drive and not a trailer queen. My dad said that you only really need two things on a car- good tires and good brakes, so I've put disk brakes on the front and I'm running the Coker 16" steel belted radials, which I really like. I will install seat belts, and that's about it for modifications ( except for the dual carbs and OD). I did choose different colors, as everything that Chrysler did on their 1940 wagon was some shade of yellow or beige.i It was like they were trying to hide the fact that the vehicle had any wood on it. 1941 was much more colorful, for some reason. Maybe Jim Benjaminson knows the answer. And I still think that's still the best looking front end (the pic with the 1940 Dodge and Don standing in my driveway) - and the car is looks good too!
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Yes sir...no more splinters! When did you do your California visit...2005?
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Yes indeed....I Por 15ed it a bit and it looks great
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I have been making good progress on the P10 wagon since summer. As Don indicated, it doesn't rain anymore here in Fresno, so we can work on our cars 24hrs/day, 12 months /year. Here are a few progress pics. I put 10 coats of varnish on it last summer, and then fit the wood to the chassis this spring. Most of the metal pieces inside the car are powdercoated -there is a shop in Clovis - Kip's Powder Coating) that not only does great work, but is very reasonable too. I find myself powder coating parts that I hadn't thought of powder coating, like the piano hinges for the doors and tailgate, just because they make it so easy! I installed a split intake and exhaust manifold from George Asche, with two rebuilt Carters and had a local radiator shop make up a split exhaust that blends back into the single exhaust pipe. These are old time muffler guys and assured me that I didn't need dual exhausts, because of the size of the single pipe and the output of the 218 that I'm using. Good thing, because the placement of the gas tank, off to the drivers side, makes it pretty tough to route a second exhaust there. I also installed a George Asche OD that I bought from him 10 years ago and with the dual carbs and split exhaust, I can easily get it up to 65mph. Not sure how fast I want to go in a car made out of toothpicks, but it's nice to know that I will be able to keep up with traffic anyway. Next challenge : the seats.
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I may have some duplicates. When you are done with your current situation, let me know
