Bob Riding

Dennis, I just measured mine and it is 17" diameter and about 1 7/8" deep.

I assume you took it to a radiator shop and had them clean it out or did you do the work?

So - any pressure cap recommendations?

It also has a zerk fitting!

Summit. Best stand I've used. Very easy to rotate.

I used the oil pan from the '56 motor. Are you saying there will be clearance issues? If so, I have a 218 pan I can substitute.

I am getting to the point of installing my rebuilt 230 in the "52 Suburban chassis. I few years back, I picked up a 3 row, Champion aluminum radiator, that supposedly fit a '52 Plymouth. It does fit, but it got me thinking about using a modern radiator with a 13lb cap, on my '56 Plymouth motor. Although it's been completely rebuilt- hot-tanked, cooling passages cleaned out and new water distribution tube, how much coolant pressure is ideal? I've heard various opinions from 13psi down to 4 psi. (Some folks even say unpressurized). I don't want to be popping out freeze plugs in the desert! As you can see, I have a few stock radiators to choose from, should I want to return it to stock.

Check out these old threads with old friends... Overdrive VS. Differential...Another Discussion

Yes, that is correct.

As to your driveshaft question, my original was not in great shape on my '40 Plymouth wagon project, so I had one made up by a local driveshaft company. It has a very easy 4 bolt connection on each end, and is perfectly balanced. Sorry I don't have better pictures.

Indeed- I wanted a reasonable comparison- one that an average person might buy

A little math: Your '38 Plymouth with the 237 weighs 2,814 lbs and has 112hp = 25 lbs/hp. Your '53 Chrysler with the 265 weighs 4,015 lbs and has 119hp = 34lbs/hp As a reference a 2dr '70 Cuda weighs 3,645 lbs and has 335hp = 11lbs/hp!

Not to mention the spear that doubles as the steering column...best not to ponder - just wear your seat belt and have fun!

I would assume that the 23" 1959 Plymouths and Dodges, and the 25" 1954 Chryslers, Desotos and Imperials had the the best power to weight ratios, as they had the highest hp, but it would be interesting to see the difference between the sixes and eights. Not sure if engine weight changed much over the years, or how much heavier the longer engines were.

I heard that too. I spoke with him back in '18. Very knowledgable and friendly.

Is that something that would retrofit the electric choke to a manual setup? If so, that would be ideal.

A few years ago I purchased Tom Langdon's Weber clone carb, the Chinese made EMPI 32/36 with electric choke, to use in my '52 Suburban project. I now plan to install it in the '40 Plymouth wagon, in place of the 2 single Carters that I've been running since 2015. Problem is, the electric choke requires 12 volts, and the wagon is still 6 volt + ground. I thought about taking it to an EMPI dealer to see if I could get a trade-in credit against a manual choke model, then remembered that the Weber K551 32/36 DGV Series (that the EMPI is based) on has a pretty good reputation, as it is made in Spain and the build quality is good. I want to stay with the same design, as Tom modified my original air cleaner from oil bath to paper element and cut out the bottom to fit the EMPI. Anyone have any heartburn with the Chinese knockoff?

Well it was easy-peasy. I wiped down the throwout bearing with brake cleaner on a rag, the placed the bearing in the sun. An hour later the bearing was spinning, with no sound. Sometimes old grease is good grease! Thanks for the advice.

Just talked to Jose. He will be out to the Fowler Yard next Monday or Tuesday and will look- He said he would call me. News at 11.

Definitely worth a trip from the Bay Area. Have you ever been to Turner's?

My brother-in-law didn't think so. (ex-vintage car restorer) I guess we will see...

After reading the threads about modern throwout bearing noise and/or failures, I was scared straight into NOS land! I was able to snag a NOS throwout bearing off eBay for a reasonable price. It is obviously original since it came in an old box, wrapped in waxed paper and covered with what looks like cosmoline . Assuming that's what it is, what's the best way to remove it without degrading the 70 year old grease inside? Wiki says various things like brake cleaner, soap and water, dry ice shot from a gun, etc! Also I assume once it's installed in my clutch assembly, it will loosen up, as it's a bit stiff right now.

Great info. I am looking for the classic "cushy" ride with less body roll. It ain't no racecar! Thanks!