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Ron175

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Everything posted by Ron175

  1. Thanks. I’ve tried a few things with the paint but my objective from the start was not to go overboard with it. I’m not really a fan of ultra-shiny patina paint, especially the clearcoated look. I also wanted it to be very low maintenance. A couple of years ago I tried Gibbs oil, and that worked nicely but it was very expensive over here and now seems impossible to find. Instead I went with a couple of coats of Collinite 476S wax - https://www.collinite.com/product-category/automotive/ I put it last summer and it is very durable. With the springs, the rear is on 2” lowering blocks and I cut the Aerostar springs 1 coil to get it level. It probably looks lower as I went with a 185R15 tyre - it originally ran 6.70 or 7.10 bias plys which apparently convert to a 205/70/15 radial but I was apprehensive of putting such a wide tyre on a narrow rim. I think it looks ok.
  2. Had some problems logging in to my account and realised this thread was in need of an update.... Nothing major done, just some tinkering and tweaking. Sorted a few little niggles and have been enjoying keithb7’s YouTube videos that have prompted me to address a few things (thanks Keith!). Fitted a new water pump as the original was starting to groan, new oil and filter, coolant flush and refill, and a wipe down done, ready for the first drive of the year over the Easter weekend.
  3. I see you have a vacuum gauge hooked up - what readings were you getting with the engine running?
  4. Mine was in pretty good shape but one of the heater hoses had worn a hole in it. I tried patching it in various ways -even tried papier mache, but it ended up looking worse! I’m going to use fibreglass with resin to repair it properly this week. I’ll let you know how I get on!
  5. Sorted my running issues out so took advantage of a break in the thunderstorms to go for a drive....
  6. I’m having a similar problem with mine - I’m running a Pertronix too. Backfired so bad it did blow out my muffler! My coil and module tested fine. Vacuum readings are low indicating late valve timing and plugs are sooty, but everything seemed ok until recently. I’m interested to see what you find out....
  7. As the whole country is still on lockdown and movement is restricted, I thought I would use the time wisely and give the old girl a tune up. I connected a vacuum gauge and with a warm idle, I’m only getting a steady 8 inches of vacuum indicating a manifold leak or late valve timing. I’ve checked the manifolds and can’t find any trace of a leak and given the engine was only rebuilt last year, it’s unlikely the chain has skipped a tooth. I’m scratching my head with this one as I really don’t want to tear it apart if I can help it! Any ideas??
  8. A small update - spent a few evenings over the last few weeks repairing the steering wheel. Unfortunately it was in rough shape as the sun had got to the plastic and it was brittle and cracked. In some places the metal was showing. Whilst I loved the look and originality, it wasn’t safe and wouldn’t have been deemed legal and roadworthy over here. I found a NOS green wheel, but it was too pricey for me ($500) and I toyed with the idea of casting a new one in resin, however it would’ve been an expensive experiment with no guarantee of colour match. In the end, I opened up all the cracks and used an epoxy putty to repair it. There was a lot of sanding but it was complete and solid. In an attempt to get the translucent look of the original, I got a paint match and added some pearl clear to the finish. In the sun, it’s hard to tell the difference and I’m really happy with the way it turned out. It’s not perfect, but neither is the car! Some pics for you....
  9. I don’t have a sedan to compare to so you may be right, but I used a sedan rear floorpan on mine and it fit quite nicely. It’s great to be able to find out all the little nuances of these cars on here.
  10. Sedan floorboards are correct. The cubby boxes next to the rear seat unscrew from the side panels and there is a bolt into the floor. These can then be removed. The rear seat support bar does not sit on the floorpan from memory. That wagon with the bulletholes has been for sale for years. The price has come down slightly but it’s essentially scrap!
  11. Yep. A repro pair on eBay is about $90. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1953-1954-DODGE-PLYMOUTH-ROCKER-PANELS-2DOOR-NEW-PAIR-/142825343077 Are you going to document your restoration on here? I'd be interested to see your progress.
  12. I feel your pain. My wagon's front floors were pretty bad. About the only place I found that does replacement panels is c2cfabrication.com Like all repro panels, they will need some fettling, but they're pretty good. I found loads of NOS rockers listed on eBay. Worth a look there.
  13. This is what you’re after.... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1953-PLYMOUTH-STATION-WAGON-BRAND-NEW-GAS-TANK-GASOLINE-FUEL-TANK-MOPAR-54/183248979307?hash=item2aaa7d856b:g:EKkAAOSwkjtbDctN
  14. It’s solid now, but there were a few issues. The front floorpans were more suited to a Flintstones car and there were some small holes in the water traps. These have been sorted and some careful paint matching done so they’re not obvious repairs. I’d love to know where this thing was sat for so long as the body was 95% solid but there was a ton of oily, sandy mud coating the undercarriage. I imagine it did a lot of it’s miles on unpaved roads. Thanks. Wagons are hot over here too. I think this is the only one in the country - maybe the whole of Europe as I’ve never seen another. I wonder how many are left in the world as they only made just over 9000 65 years ago. I’m glad you like my approach. I was initially going to go with a modern drivetrain - Icon derelict style- but I think it would’ve lost some of the character. A flathead six is a very rare sight at shows over here too....
  15. Thanks for the kind words Worden. I’m pleased with how it’s looking. 2” blocks in the rear and Aerostar front springs. I didn’t want to go too low so as to make it undriveable. This weekend I hope to go through the brakes and then it’s just a few little things to button up before I can get it on the road.
  16. Got the ride height where I want it...
  17. Managed to get the engine in this weekend. Most of the ancillaries fitted too. Started after a couple of cranks which was a result. Need to sort the timing out etc., but at least it runs!
  18. pflaming - the rear seat is original, the front I had retrimmed by a local guy who does great work. It took a while to find fabric that was a very close match. Robin - that sounds good. Whereabouts are you?
  19. Thanks for the kind words. It’s definitely not a wrap! I see where you’re coming from Andy - the patina isn’t for everyone. I’ve had show/magazine featured cars before and was always worried about driving them. This is the opposite. It’s so liberating not to worry about knocking it etc. I can enjoy driving it. Also, the paint has lasted 65 years - it’d be a shame to cover it now.
  20. Pushed it out in the sunshine....
  21. I then pulled the engine (again) and went through it completely. Bored 30 over, new pistons, valves reground, rods balanced, head skimmed etc. Been slowly putting it back together over the winter. Finally getting there - plan to install next weekend.
  22. After nearly a year, time for a thread update. Life gets in the way sometimes.... Following on from my last post, I managed to find the hens teeth plate surround at a yard in California - it was in good shape and matches the bumper perfectly. I finished the interior, with the carpet being the last piece of the puzzle. I’m pleased with how it’s turned out.
  23. From the ‘54 service manual. No mention of camshaft bolt torque specs.
  24. Awesome. How long have they been sitting?
  25. I’ve just finished up the interior of my ‘54 Dodge Suburban and have kept it stock. I guess the style you go with depends on what you’re going to do with the rest of the car. If you’re going to target the surfers, go with the bench. Modern seats aren’t really their style. Your car, your rules though.
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