JerseyHarold

Tony, A 318 would really perk-up the performance of your Business Coupe (wish my '51 looked that good....). I say go for it. Tex Smith's book 'HowTo Build a Chrysler/Plymouth/Dodge Hot Rod' had an article on putting a 318 into a P15. One thing I remember from it is that if you put a passenger's side exhaust manifold on the driver's side it helps with steering box clearance issues. Keep us posted on your decision.

Another thing to try is depressing the Schrader Valve on the fuel line after cranking to see if pressurized gas squirts out (hold rag over valve and be careful). Is there an inertia switch somewhere that you can reset? Last but not least, if the pump stopped, maybe a whack on the gas tank near the pump (use rubber mallet so no sparks) might free it up.

Check some websites selling promo models and see what they ask. From my experience, you might be better off waiting until the winter months to list it on eBay because more people are browsing there in colder/holiday weather.

Just saw this one. Located north of NYC. You can have it running in no time! http://newyork.craigslist.org/brx/car/321494971.html

Norm, eBay isn't what it used to be. My friend currently has 109 items listed (they ran a 'cheap listing day' last week), and he only has bids on two items. My success rate has been way down lately, although I only list items occasionally. Maybe the reason you don't get bids is that people think there is something wrong with the item and the starting price is too good to be true.

No offense, but they made some ugly looking buses years ago!

Slightly OT but worth mentioning here (actually probably worthwhile for the Pilothouse forum as well)......There was a book published in the early 1970's titled 'Truck' by John Jerome. It's the story of the author's rebuild of his 1950 Dodge B1B pickup, all in the pre-internet age. Very well written (Mr. Jerome was an automotive writer and former editor of Car & Driver). Anyway, he also couldn't get his engine to start after rebuilding it, and in his case the plug wires were 180 degrees off on the distributor cap. Keep trying, Jim. It will eventually fire and you'll feel great as you watch the oil guage rise for the first time after the motor starts.

Jack up the rear of the car so you have gas flowing by gravity to the fuel pump. Might be dry. Also, remove your plug wires one by one, then reinstall them one distributor terminal 'off' from where they originated. Remember the firing order is always 153624 from wherever #1 is. Try to start and see what happens. If it doesn't start, move wires one terminal to the rear of where each originated and try again. You can also move the wires 180 degrees from their present location (wire at 9 o'clock goes to 3 o'clock, etc.) and see the result. Something simple is keeping the engine from running and if you play with it enough you'll fix it.

I've got a bunch of wheel and master cylinder kits from Western Auto but no catalog to identify them with. I was told they used their own numbering system. Does anyone have a catalog and can scan me a couple of pages from it? Thanks in advance.

We plan to be there Sunday. Spending Saturday night at the HoJo in Saugerties.

I recall reading somewhere that you need to pack the oil pump with vaseline or light grease prior to installation so it primes itself when you first use it. Is that so?

Allan, Check your PM's. Harold

I have belonged to the POC for way over 20 years, mainly because I like Plymouths in general. I enjoy the Plymouth Bulletin magazine because it has a lot of historical and human interest articles...it's nice to read the story of someone else's car. Technical info is readily available from many sources, especially this forum. There is a LOT of talent here! To my way of thinking, if Bondo, Maaco, and a different-year engine are keeping a Plymouth alive, that's a good thing. It doesn't have to be perfect or original. What really bothers me is when someone (many times with deeeeep pockets) hacks up a really nice original car to make it a custom or street rod. They could have started with a lesser car and preserved the original. I'll get off my soap box now.....

My wife and kids enjoy Rhinebeck as much as I do. We've been there quite a number of times and plan to go again this year. It's a great family show, especially now with the County Museum on the premises.

Another way to isolate which end of the car is thumping is to lightly apply the emergency brake (with the handle pulled out) and see if the rear wheels thump.

A second layer of fiberglass cloth would be a good idea. Adds strength to the weakened metal.

'49 second series and early '50.

I have a friend who ships a lot of stuff and he has told me similar stories about how Fedex flat-out refuses to pay for items damaged in transit. Sender beware!

Somebody should buy the draft pads, then use them for molds and make repros to sell for a reasonable price.

What if..... You got a small piece of dry ice and held it to the stud with tweezers? Stud shrinks, manifold yanks right off. No heat to warp anything.

Have you done a pressure test of the cooling system? That will confirm whether or not your cooling system is intact. Also, a stuck heat riser or plugged exhaust can add to overheating problems.

Much more realistic for a starting bid of $8000. Of course, I'm partial to P23's. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Plymouth-Cranbrook-1951-Plymouth-Cranbrook_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6387QQitemZ180101001475QQrdZ1

After the expected bidding frenzy didn't materialize, the seller is now down to a still-too-much (IMHO) $2000. opener. Here's a link if you want to drool over this gem again: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Plymouth-Plymoth-Deluxe-1950-Plymoth-Deluxe-4-door-w-flat-head-motor_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6387QQitemZ300095257248QQrdZ1

Back in the late 1970's I met Andy B. in person at a Mopar meet in Pennsylvania. He had an attitiude problem even then, and I have never dealt with him because of it.

Why would anyone waste their time trying to cobble this monstrosity together? This will give me nightmares!