JerseyHarold

I'm 99% certain that 1951 was the first year for the Hemi V8.

My in-laws had a '49 Wayfarer in that body style. Traded up in '52 to a Coronet sedan.

Check out this beauty! Has an opening bid of $8000. Might be one too many zeroes in the price. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Plymouth-Plymoth-Deluxe-1950-Plymoth-Deluxe-4-door-w-flat-head-motor_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6387QQitemZ300092939659QQrdZ1

I've used Easy-Off Oven Cleaner to strip paint in the past. It's basically lye and does the job. Have to clean the surface real well afterwards to get rid of residue.

FWIW, in the past several years some major auto paint supply manufacturers have been selling rollers for primer application in body shops. Their ads claim that you use less material, shorter masking time, and more environmentrally friendly because you're not creating airborne spray. Using a roller for the finish coat makes a lot of sense too. Might try it one day myself.

My son and I went down to the AC show this morning and spent a pleasant few hours looking at the cars. Flathead-era Mopars were pretty scarce. We saw a '46 Chrysler T&C convertible, '41 Plymouth, and a really nice second-series '49 Dodge Coronet club coupe. That was about it. By and large the cars were very nice, but a few of them fell victim to the strong indoor lighting, which accentuated orange peel, sanding scratches, and the dreaded bondo ripples. Surprisingly, quite a few original cars had 'sold' tags on them after being auctioned. One that stands out is a low mileage '63 Falcon woody wagon. I haven't seen one in many years, and this was a very nice example. I'll check the G. Potter King website in a few days to see if they post the bid results. There were also a number of cars from the '70's to the '90's on display by dealers hoping to make a killing. We got a chuckle out of some of them, like an '89 Old Cutlass Ciera sedan, detailed to the max, with ONLY 67,000 miles, and a price tag of $5950! Needless to say, my camera was sitting on the kitchen table rather than being in my pocket.....

Don't get destructive to get the cylinder out! Take the ignition lock to a locksmiths. They can pick the existing cylinder, turn it so the pin can be depressed, then make a key to fit the lock by 'impressioning'. Then, you have the correct key that will fit both the doors and ignition. Shouldn't be too expensive, especially if you bring them the lock.

Condolences from our family to the Bakers. Nelson will be missed by many.

Great deal! My late father-in-law bought one of those Wayfarers new in '49. My mother-in-law worked at a Dodge dealership at the time so they got preferential treatment because new cars were in short supply. He once told me that they had a prop rod for the trunk, which was changed in 1950 to a counterbalanced lid. Must have been a nuisance to use with the rod.

Nice paint work, John. The car should look good when it's all that color.

I've heard some horror stories about cars getting abused during movie production. I wouldn't get involved if asked.

Don't know how 'polls' work here either but our three daily drivers are: 2001 Ford Taurus sedan 1998 Chevy Lumina sedan 1994 Mercury Villager minivan 98% of my 'drivers' have come from gov't surplus auctions, so I just buy what I like that looks good at the time.

If the doors were changed the lock cylinders would be different. Does the ignition key fit the doors?

Anything is possible with an old car. If it was used for transportation until it was 15 or more years old, the mindset of the owner was probably to fix it the cheapest way possible to keep it going. They didn't care if the repair wasn't original as long as it worked.

Thanks for posting the photos. I know the purists might be upset with a Chevy V8 in the car, but the upgrade makes a lot of sense if you're using it in modern traffic (especially with the automatic trans). Are you upgrading the brakes as well?

John, How did you mount the motor and trans? Any photos? Thanks. Harold

I got the master out of my '52 Cambridge without removing the floor panel. IIRC, I slid the pedal pivot bar out sideways, left the pedals dangling, and unbolted the master cylinder. As the shop manuals say, 'installation was the opposite of removal'.

Where did you get it from?

I've used a heat gun to help pop rear drums. I'm not real keen on an open flame near the car.

After many months of trying to sell it, I drove my '89 Pontiac Safari to the junkyard this morning. Had it for over 13 years, and age caught up with it. It needed head and intake gaskets and the carb was screwed-up....the registration, insurance, and inspection (would never pass emissions here in NJ) expire in a few days. Not to mention the rust and sagging headliner. So away it went. I even listed the wagon on eBay and some yahoo living 500 miles away bid on it. He wanted to derby the car, but kept giving me excuses about picking it up. (Meanwhile he was the winning bidder on two other much more expensive wagons even farther from his home than mine). So maybe getting parted out at the junkyard is a better end than getting painted in weird colors and being smashed to bits. We took many trips and hauled mountains of stuff with the wagon and I'm sad to see it go. Sorry about the rant.

Will this do you any good? Found the ad on the POC website. http://plymouthbulletin.com/noahsclassifieds/index.php?method=showdetails&list=advertisement&rollid=262&fromfromlist=classifiedscategory&fromfrommethod=showhtmllist&fromfromid=12

Don, You have a PM. Harold

Don, Earlier in this thread you mentioned you lived near Buffalo at one time. Just curious....what town were you in? I attended Geneseo and University of Buffalo, and have a good friend who lives in Pavilion (outside Batavia).

Since I'm always glad to help other forum members, ESPECIALLY other Harolds, here's my way to figure out what kind of coupe it is: Check the body style number on the little plate on the firewall. A Deluxe Business Coupe is style #513, and a Special Deluxe Business Coupe is a #503. A Special Deluxe Club Coupe is a #502, and the Deluxe Club Coupe is a #512. FWIW, I got this info from my copy of the 1991 Steele Rubber Products catalog, which for some reason had listings of this data for most American made cars. Hope this helps.

By golly...Two Harolds on one Plymouth board. Amazing!