JerseyHarold

We let the Taurus sit for a week and tried to start it this morning. I put my volt meter probes on the battery terminals (read 12.3 V...slightly low) then had my wife turn the key. The voltage dropped to 7 and the car wouldn't start. One quick trip to Sam's Club for a battery and we're on the road again. Harold

Robin, I forgot to mention that's great photo of your son sitting on the nearside wing of your Plymouth! Harold

Hey Robin, Please pardon my question but...why do you spell 'favorite' without the 'u'? Are you originally from the USA? Harold

How about cutting up an old inner tube? Lots of pliable thin rubber there.

The '51 convertible is at a dealership about 15 miles south of here. It was on eBay a while ago listed by the owner and it went nowhere. Not exactly a perfect restoration, but a nice driver I'm sure. $27,900. is in the clouds as far as price is concerned.

Not really related to Plymouths except from an electrical theory point of view. Our 2001 Taurus wouldn't start for my wife a couple of days ago. She was in a parking lot and the car was already warmed-up. She said it made a rapid 'dead battery' noise, not a one-time 'solenoid' click. About 15 minutes later, she tried it again and it started right up. The battery is original with clean tight connections and has 12.6 V at rest. With the engine running the alternator output is 14.5 V. Is there any way to do a load test without a meter? Like turn on the headlights for a minute or two then see how low the battery gets while cranking? I know the first reaction is to throw in a new battery, but I'd like to avoid that expense if I'm barking up the wrong tree. Any thoughts appreciated. Harold

The wheel looks very similar to B-&C-body wheels from the 1970's.

Alexander, I live in Freehold. I can REALLY be over there next Saturday morning with a 24 pack! Harold

Check your local newspapers for the Maaco winter special.....they offer one of their jobs at half-price. Quite a deal if your bodywork is all done.

It looks like there are a lot of these Craftsman Engine Analyzers lurking out there, and most of them don't have books! I'm willing to scan one of these manuals and share it with those that need it.

Thanks everyone for your replies. It looks like I'll go with the 215's. I'd like to use rubber snap-in oval tire valves, but I guess I'm stuck with the bolt-ins. Ken, that was a very interesting insight concerning the tire labels causing grief. Something to watch for on any car....good of you to share. Harold

Back in my college days (the 1970's) a friend contacted Noel Neill (who played Lois Lane for most of the TV series) and got her to come to our school (Geneseo, in Western New York) to address a sorority. She had gone into the real estate and auction business after the show ended. I saw her after the sorority event in our campus bar, drinking beer with a bunch of girls. Didn't see a Rambler convertible in the parking lot.....

The 210400 is the one I have. It's on a shelf next to me as I type this. BRAINSTORM: If you can mail me the manual I'll scan all the pages so others can have copies, then mail the original back to you. It would end-up helping several of us who are needing the manual. Whaddaya think? Thanks. Harold

I want to replace the tires on my Cambridge...the original size 6.70X15's from the 1960's are on there now. I'm thinking P205/75-15 or 215's should work. What are you guys (and girls..don't wanna be sexist here) running on your cars? Then there is the oval valve stem issue. I know screw-in oval valves are available, but has anyone found rubber snap-in valves that work? I'm trying to stay with 'main-stream' suppliers rather than the 'antique vendors' because it usually works out less expensive that way. Any thoughts appreciated. Harold

To BobT: Is the green Plymouth photo you posted from a current eBay auction? It lives about 4 miles from me (I recognized the house in the photo). I speak to the owner occasionally at local shows. At one point, he wanted to modify it into a street rod, and I told him this car was too nice to molest. Same guy has a '37 P-3 Business Coupe painted like a black-and-white police car with a Ford 302 and rack&pinion steering.

Frank, I may be wrong, but don't you need to make sure you have the correct guage wire in the circuit before upping the breaker size by 5 amps? Better safe than sorry. Harold

Go to a good parts store. My Standard/Blue Streak Ignition Catalog from 1989 shows it's the same cylinder 1949-68. Their part number was US-12L. The keys will have the newer design heads.

Many times a worn key is the problem. Try turning the key with the cylinder removed from the housing. If it turns easily, it's the housing. If not,it's the cylinder or key.

Quick Update: Based on Norris's idea, I put my model number into Google and got one hit....a guy in the next town over from me in New Jersey is selling one of these engine analyzers! Talk about a small world. If I work up the courage, I might call him and see if I can photocopy the book, if he has it. Harold

Norrism1, Thanks for the lookup. At least I know I'm not alone looking for a manual. Splat1955, Your tester may be a little more sophisticated than the one I have. Your control panel has a couple more switches, and in Sears logic a '500' probably outranks a '400'. I'm sure there is more info out there, it's just a matter of finding it. Harold

It's a Craftsman Engine Analyzer model 161.210400. Bought it at a garage sale a couple of months ago for $2.00. Looks like it has all the cables but no manual. Been meaning to track down some more info on it. I think these were 'private-labelled' for Sears by another manufacturer so if anyone has another brand that has a family resemblance it shouldn't be a surprise. If I dig up any additional information I'll post it here. Harold

I belong to the POC primarily for the magazine and visit the website occasionally just to check in. I post once in a while if I feel it'll help the thread.

Freehold, New Jersey....kinda equal distance from NYC and Philly

Tim, Never done this myself. I was thinking more along the lines of getting it done at a commercial shop that does this kind of work since you need a lot more CFM than most people's compressors can deliver, and a contained area is necessary. Just seems like a quick way to get rid of surface rust when you have a large area to deal with.

Bob, Your car is a prime candidate for baking-soda blasting. Mask off the windows and go. Then a quick coat of etch primer followed by regular primer surfacer and the car will look 1000 times better and your domestic life will improve dramatically!