VFFFrank

Tip: Never use Chinese made condoms. F

I installed a Carter rotary pump (6V) in my non-Chrysler car for the purpose of priming as well, and began having trouble with running out of fuel under heavy loads, like extended acceleration or climbing hills. The problem would occur in exactly the same location on an often-traveled road. I could either back out of the throttle or switch the electric on to resume travel. As it turns out, the mechanical pump is able to "pull" fuel through the rotary pump but only at a much reduced volume......obviously not enough to keep it running under those conditions. At the suggestion of another, I plumbed a bypass circuit around the Electric with a .5 psi check valve (note the decimal) in the bypass line so that the mechanical could draw through the electric but the electric couldn't pump fuel backward toward the tank. It worked perfectly and the problem has never repeated under any operating conditions. Just my two bits worth. Oh, the check was available from McMaster-Carr for about $15in either F/F or M/F thread configurations. Frank

Even OEM stuff isn't made here any more. For me, money is no object (they tell me I'm rich).....I'll take US Made any time I can. Frank

Hmmmmm. Do you have the old distributor? I'm guessing that the shaft seized on the bushings for lack of lubrication and having sat idle for a long time. You should be able to turn it with your fingers easily. Sounds like you might not have a good manual for those engines. Get one.....it could save us all a lot of guessing.... and get you on the road. Frank

Oh, and.....it sounds as though you have the distributor installed with the shaft 180 degrees out of position. F

All I heard was "shaft was broken"!! Do you know exactly what caused that to happen?? It's pretty important. Was this engine running prior to the broken shaft discovery? If not, it might be why it was parked to begin with. All in-line sixes share the same firing order (even the Two-Stroke Detroit Diesels) of 1-5-3-6-2-4. Frank

Thanks for the suggestions. Just for the H of it, I went to my NAPA "Pro-Link" gizmo and took a look at their listings for some basic parts. Everything I entered was shown as a current part but when I clicked the "Find It" button, none of it came up as available from any NAPA store or Distribution Center in this country. I'm finding more and more disappointments from them and have began looking elsewhere for many items. I recently needed a source for a particular flywheel ring gear and tried NAPA with no luck. So, I tried several others with similar results. As a last resort (maybe I shouldn't say that) I looked at Auto Zone and Bingo! They had them, overnight, for a very favorable price, so I got 15 of them. I'll check on your ideas plus a few of the other "usual suspects". Thanks again, Frank

Don, Thanks for the words of wisdom but I wouldn't make that mistake. I do my own tear-downs, cleaning, machine work and assembly (aside from crank and cam grinding). I'm guilty of assuming that the ordinary NAPA-type auto parts stores wouldn't even know what I was talking about. In the Hudson world, it's a waste of time to even ask. Frank

Hmmmmm. The 1899M number comes up as a Sealed Power cam bearing set for the 6.0L Ford V-8. Obviously, those aren't rod bearings. Frank

Hi all, Being a relative "Newbie" to the Chrysler world, I'll guess that there a few recognized/popular sources for typical engine rebuilding, i.e., Gaskets, pistons, rings, bearings, timing components, etc. I'm considering a rebuild of a 218 that has adorned my storage area for few years. I've previously done some biz with Kanter, Egge and Best (in regard to other makes), but there might be some other favorites that only the insiders know. Also a source for used parts like cam cores, heads or cranks. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks, Frank

Thanks to all for helping me make my point. I know there isn't a grease cap on the rears as I am quite familiar with that type of axle. I'd not have commented if Tom hadn't indicated that it was a rear hubcap. Those who feel it's necessary to bend the cotter pin ends around the nut have always bewildered me. What's the gain, aside from making it a bit easier to get a hold on the ends to straighten 'em out for removal? I clip them off short.....there's no force trying to yank them out once they're in and the free ends bent even slightly. F

Thank you dpollo, I'm aware that certain High-end Chryslers, namely the New Yorkers, used a full flow filter from '46 to 50 with a filter known as a "sealed can" type. It may have been optional for a few upper end models as well. I didn't think that it was adaptable to the engines in other models not so equipped from the factory. I tried the search that Don suggested without any results. However, I'm a techno dork, so it could just be me. If you could steer me to any conversations about that conversion, I'd be grateful. Thanks, Frank

Of course the cotter pin moves around with the axle......it goes through the axle and nut. However, the axle, hub, drum, wheel and wheelcover (aka "hubcap") also go with it so I'm wondering how the cotter pin can make a circular scratch on the inside of the hubcap unless the axle is turning independently of the hub? Someone enlighten me, please. F

My "research"(using the Mopar Passenger Car Parts List, #D-14928) regarding the applications for the 1314 609 Oil Pump, spans the years from 1934 to 1954 (the limit of this particular book), non Hy-Drive equipped cars, however, it appears that '41 or '42 was the last year of the gear-type pump and the gerotor (trochiod Pump) was employed after that. Looking at replacement pumps, the span is from 1934 to 1959, all being the Gerotor version. This would imply that the two are interchangeable. Would I be correct that a '46 and later pump can directly replace the pre-war gear-type? That's my take on it but I thought I should ask the experts. Frank

Jump in and correct me if I'm full of it, but.....if the cotter pin is making a circular scratch on the backside of a rear hubcap, then the axle must be turning independently of the wheel. That implies that the axle key is sheared or wasn't in there to begin with. Although the nut should be tightened to spec, one can't rely solely on the friction at the taper to prevent slippage there. ?? Once the keyways are damaged, it will always be a recurring problem. Frank

Hmmmm. I had deleted that previous post because of errors in my "facts" but it made it through anyway. I apologize for the bad info. I tried a number of "edit" attempts but obviously failed. I need to be more careful and learn how to use this forum. Frank

1950, As in most engines of this general design, the regulator plunger doesn't allow oil to flow to the filter canister until the pressure has come up to about 20 psi (maybe less in the Mopars). The other suggestions are good, especially the possibility of a need to prime the pump, but I though I should mention the designed-in prevention of oil flow to the filter. They do this to prevent loss of pressure at low rpm (that's why cranking speed won't get it there) when a bypass type filter is employed. There is a restrictive orifice in the canister center tube (approx 1/16 in.) to prevent significant pressure loss at higher rpm. By then the pump is putting out sufficient volume so it's a non-issue. You may prime it by taking off the end plate (DON'T let the outer-rotor fall out! They may break if it falls to the floor!) and apply some soft grease to the rotor cavities and ends. That should be enough to seal it internally for priming. F

Steve, My guess based on similar experience: Disconnect battery (for safety's sake), then remove the Voltage regulator cover......don't drop the screws! You should see three components, the V reg, the current regulator and a cut-out. The cut-out should "open" at shut-down but may be stuck in the closed position. This has the effect of making a motor out of the generator, but it can't turn 'cause it's held by the belt, so it's a dead short, which heats things up. Is the generator hot after it has been sitting while? (Of course it's hot from running). Another way to test is to remove the belt and hook the battery back up and see if the generator "motors". The regulator is a pretty fussy device as it pertains to being a correct match for the characteristics of the generator...... so, if it's the wrong one, the cut-out may fail to open. F

Death, Thanks for the tips. I'll give it a go. Frank

Bill, "Has anyone had a coil blow up and start burning ?" I'm assuming that you have a "Kettering" breaker-points type of system yet. If ign is left on for any length of time, the coil will heat up since, if the points are closed, it represents a dead short and the heat must go somewhere. If the points happened to be open, it wouldn't have done that. I've done that occasionally but never had one actually explode, but it's obviously possible! Sounds dangerous. The typical coil is oil-filled and fancier (read "more expensive") ones are epoxy. You may have come back to a smoldering pile of ashes. You should check those points.....they may be cooked. Frank

Don, I managed to find a "reference" gizmo under "Resources" but don't understand how to use it. I'm also not familiar with the term "signature line". Sounds like a space on a piece of paper where I sign. I'm still in the paper era. If you (or someone) could give me some hints as to how these suggestions may be accomplished, I'd appreciate some guidance. I'd add an image to my info but the only Mopar shots I have are of a friend's '50 Chrysler Traveler. He's also the guy who had the D/P dealership years ago that I mentioned earlier. Computer illiterately, Frank

Don, Thanks for the suggestion. I've been wondering how to "legally" get that info available. The website is very stale and I keep saying I'm going to spruce it up but, not being a computer whiz, it's like pulling teeth to get me to tackle it. I'll act on your suggestion.....if I can figure out how. Frank

The floating pick-up device floats in the oil and isn't pushed up by sludge accumulation.....at least it sure as heck shouldn't be. I took a look at my 218 stuff and found the "Floto-Screen to be the same as Don's Desoto image...and the same as those I've encountered in the Hudsons. It was also evident that with the oil level low enough to leave the float hanging at it's low point, the joint where it rotates is probably not submerged. So, have a look at the possibility of an air leak there while you are checking stuff. If it held 35-40 before, it should still hold that. Something has changed. Frank

IMHO, it's not a bearing issue.....at least, not yet, and I'll agree that it sounds like an air leak on the inlet side of the pump. I'm guessing from an earlier reply that they used a "Floto-Screen" or similar type floating pick-up device, The pivot point, in my experience, is a poorly sealed joint that isn't a problem as long as it stays submerged. I could be wrong here but I think it becomes exposed to air before the level drops so far that the inlet point (the actual opening of the pick-up tube) is no longer submerged. This could present an air leak even though the pick-up tube end is still submerged. I've added an o-ring at that joint in the Hudson pressure-lubed engines but one must be careful that it still moves freely. I've always questioned the value of the floating screen device anyway. No advantage in my opinion. I've got a 218 basket case here and I guess I should have a look again so that I'm familiarized with such details. Frank (who?)

Earl, I'm a bit hesitant to discuss the set-up as I'm aware that such things aren't allowed in the general discussion area.....I don't want to get ousted right out of the gate. That rule is pretty much the norm in well-run forums...same in the HET site. We don't want commercial endeavors cluttering up the friendly chatter. If you'd advise me of the intricacies of the rules regarding such things, I'd know if it's OK to post a link to the website where more info is available. I guess I could drop a hint and let the members find it themselves. It's an idea that I have kicked around for several years then acted on it about 4 years ago. I had just rebuilt our 202 Jet engine (Hudson's "compact" car in '53 & '54) and wasn't about to fire it off without a full-flow filtration system. As we all know, the automotive industry didn't have much of anything to offer in terms of effective oil filtration until the mid 50's.....the "bypass" type was about it. Knowing that many vintage engine owners were in the same boat, I set about to create a prototype for that engine and then moved on to the senior Hudsons and the PDSC flathead sixes and eights after that. There are many other candidates for the system but time is my enemy. Each version is designed specifically for the engine it's serving and the development process of each is somewhat time consuming. Dubbed the VFF (that will make more sense later), details of the prototype work can be found on my website along with some photos and descriptions. I was lucky to have a friend who owned a Dodge/Plymouth dealership in the late 50's and had retained the original factory supplied parts books. With that info, I was able to discern the range of applications for the device. I also got some education regarding the early Chrysler full-flow set-up which differs greatly from mine. The PDSC version has the greatest coverage so I'm excited to be able to offer it to the Flathead Mopar gearheads. Let me know if I'm pushing it. I'm not really ready to place an ad in the "Classifieds" just yet. Thanks for the warm welcome. Frank