JSabah

Heater on the right hand inner fender ... now that I’m looking at the attached pix, I’m wondering if the heater will even fit..... I thought putting the car back together would would be the easy part

Not quite... next conflict Am I to modify this duct (fiberglass possibly) or are there other options...

vacuum

What is my goal for clearance? Am I looking for “just making it piece of paper”? 1/16”? 1/8? Or more. I already “massaged” the firewall a bit. Now for some touch up and I should be good.

I need to double check the exhaust manifold too. I think it clears but barely - how much clearance should I go for ? I'm going to try a rounded block of wood and a hammer ... Or maybe my air chisel with a hammer head on it.

How much clearance do I need. 1/16”? 1/8”? More?

Got the engine in today only to find that my new intake BARELY fits. It just touches the firewall. Any suggestions as to what to do... (please don’t mention how I f’ed up the firewall... I tried and tried but I just couldn’t get it in without a couple of scratches

I have a single front mounts- a rectangular piece of rubber with 4 studs that connects to a bracket..... is that the type you are referring too?

I was going to say that I think you pic of a manual may be for a different year as my car had larger conical lower mounts as pictured above. It was 105 today (110 in the shop) so I didn’t feel like working too hard. Went to the local metal supplier and got some remnants for about $8 (4’ of stainless tube cost me less than they wanted to charge me to cut what I needed - so I have plenty for mistakes or if anyone needs any). In any case, made my own spacers. Tube is 1/8” shy of the assembly -for compression once engine is in. Washers were cut out of 3/32” cold rolled steel. Painted for good measure.

Any idea where I can get the spacers if I can’t find mine (although I’m pressure my car just had washers as the old was drastically compressed)? Andy Bernbaum doesn't seem to have them listed

I’m getting ready to drop the engine in (49 Plymouth woody). I have new engine mounts -upper and lower rear (2 sets) and a rectangular for the front bracket. My question has to do with the rear conical type .... my old pictures indicate a disc /large washer on the old rubber but I can’t seem to find them. Are they just washers? Are there additional ones on the bottom? Are the top ones necessary? I can’t understand where they went as I bad and tag everything which leads me to believe that they may have been bonded to the old rubber and that the new ones don’t have them - why I’m wondering if they are necessary

Maybe it’s just me, but I think an inertia switch may be a good idea on a wood car.

H and H. Great guys. Easy to work with.

No, what I meant by tape is - along the fabric sheathing from the ignition ... if I tap into the harness it will be with crimped splices to bullet or spade connectors

It’s back ... now I get to get it back in. Decided to go with an Offy intake and duel carbs as well as duel exhaust. Other than that 30 over, electric fuel pump

Ive deleted the mechanical fuel pump as it was too close to my new duel exhaust manifold. So I will be installing a new inline pump (12v). I’m planing on having it in the inside if the frame as far back to the tank as possible but keeping it below the tank. Between the tank and pump, have an inline filter (maybe a secondary filter closer to the engine as well. Now for my questions: 1)original fuel line was 5/16 for which I bought replacement already. The pump looks like it has 1/4” inlet/outlet. Can I just get an adapter and keep my 5/16” line. 2) is there a power source nearby connected to the ignition to power the pump or do I need to run new wires from the dash - I have a new wiring harness and sure hate to tape additional wires to it. Can I get power from the fuel sending unit? Brake light switch ? Thank you

Got the tank in with my plates straps and rubber pads .... now for the hard part - getting the filler pipe in (and when I say hard, take into account that I got the tank in myself which was a trick holding it up and bolting it from the top)

Got my new KYB shocks today. Much happier with the fit. I put them on but haven’t tightened them up yet.

I think they would just look cool to have them. However, I just realized because I’m using copper/nickel pipes I need to be careful about electrolysis ?

That sounds like a lot of work (troubles). For a few buck it looks like you can buy nice new ones and for a bit less I could bead blast and paint

Thanks. That looks perfect.... and a good source I didn’t know about for other items

Im replacing all hard lines (Brake and fuel) with Copper Nickel lines and noticed that the old lines have what look like long springs over parts of them. I believe that they are shields of some sort (either heat or vibration/wear. Do others reuse them? are they available new? Are they necessary?

I think that the flat part is under the toe board (and bubble faces down). If the flat portion were to be above the floor it would never seal as there are small wedges that would not allow it to seal .... ever. At least the other way, the holes will be sealed when not on the brake or changing gears ?

I think I found some clarity on a discussion in the truck section. Is it correct that the seal only works when the pedal is up and not being depressed ..... and the seal floats with the pedal shaft so that when the pedal is depressed it goes down and there is no seal for that period of time ... is that correct?