JSabah

any help on this would be appreciated... Thanks, Josh

No worries, if I could figure out how to post pictures here maybe you could use your experience to let me know what other cars may use the same.

I've been using Morris at West Valley Instruments since he rebuilt my guages in 1979 for my MGTD. They are still working (yes I still have and drive the car). Since then he has done several other cars for me. I highly recommend him and plan to have him do my projects before he retires. http://westvalleyinstruments.com/

It was not in the door and while the strap could be duplicated, what about the swivel and part with the rollers that attaches to the door?

I am getting close to completing the wood work on my '49 and see that I only have 1 door strap/Door check for one of the rear doors. I can not seem to find a matching one on the internet. Attached is a pic of what I have. it correct? where can I get another? If not correct, where can I get a set of correct ones (rear doors only)?Well I cant seem to upload what I have so Ill try to describe...It is a solir strap that has a swivel on one side and to passes thru a part with 2 rollers and is deformed so that the rollers stop it from coming out as it hits a rubber stop. It is not very curved and probably around 4" or 5" long (Ill have to measure). Thanks for any help. Josh

I'm working on restoring the wood on a '49 Plymouth Woody. It would be very helpful if someone to tell me who can supply the bolts that look like chrome stove or carriage bolts (and actually some appear to be nuts that look like bolts). They are capped with either chrome or stainless covers that give them a slight dome look like a stove or carriage bolt. Thanks, Josh

You are correct....no fluid drive. What is pictured is what I have. And yes I hope to get it figured out some day soon as this is the 1 st American car I have (or hope to ) have done and have never driven this (or started it) , so I m a bit behind the 8 ball. Thanks for your patience and help.

I need to replace (preferred) or repair my floor pans. I checked the typical suppliers and floor pans for the p18 special deluxe seem to be available from multiple suppliers. Problem is, while comparing vender pics and my car, they don't seem to be the same. My floor pans look to have a single piece across the entire front (right tunnel and left all 1 piece) and a second piece across the back. What is offered from the suppliers are rights and lefts to be used with tunnel covers. I am not even sure I can use portions of the new (welded in) as the linear depressions are not in the same location and I can't tell about where the chassis mount bolts are. Following are pics of what I have. Note that the pencil tip is at the front/rear seam. Any experience here?

Driveshaft and transmission came out prior to engine removal. There is a bearing (I believe) that was loose when the transmission came out. You can see it laying on the wood in this pic.

Will order both front and rear for the body shop to weld in for me (along with an inner rocker or two ... Never seems to end ;-) ) Yes there was some wood rot and shrinkage on that side, but on the 49 the structure is steel and on mine the rear window appears to be level. The hope is to get the tailgate straight and then rebuild the wood to it on the one corner. There are some bolts holding the piano type hinge to the tailgate, there may possibly be some adjustment, but my gut tells me I'll be un bolting the body from the chassis and trying to slip a spacer in to lift it level.

I think so... Will investigate tomorrow.

Niel, is the fluid coupling inside? Does the cover come off with the +-4 bolts that look to hold on the bell housing and if so will the clutch and fluid coupling come out as a unit? Since this is all new to me, I just tony want to end up with a bunch of loose parts that I have to figure out how to put back together... Thanks. Shel, not going to worry about the trans ... I'll read up on the fluid coupling and clutch assembly (as well as body mounts -re my other post from today) ;-) thanks, Josh

Second body issue is my floors. Can anyone familiar with the floors tell if I need just the fronts or the rears too and if the rears are the same as the sedans (the Woody has a toolbox/jack space ... Not sure about the other models)

I want to get two things on the body straightened out and/or understood. The 1st of which is an uneven tailgate. The left side of the tailgate is about 3/8-1/2" lower than the right side. Also, while removing the wiring harness to the rear of the car, it seemed to be pinched between the body and the chassis (although there was a gap... As it the rubber shrank and pinched the wire). After tugging in the wire it pulled loose and a rubber spacer came out with it. The puzzling thing is that the spacer was in tact with no tears/breaks but looks like it should have had a bolt thru it. The spacer is about how much I need to lift the body to get the tailgate straight.... Thoughts?

Question about the trans. The lever attached to the top of the trans seems to operate a hi gear, neutral and a lower gear. The lever attached to the side seems not to do much of anything. I am operating them by hand and turning the shaft by hand.... Do I need to take it to a transmission shop?

Again sorry they are upside down

Additional engine number pic and transmission pics...

Engine pics...

Now that I'm not so tired and have a chance to look at it , it appears too uniform to be a tear. Here are two pics of the area (below are some additional pics of the engine as I am not 100% sure of what I have as it was supposedly from a '50 donner car. (Why my pics are loading upside down is a mystery to me ... They are correct on my computer .. Sorry)

Now that I'm not so tired and have a chance to look at it , it appears too uniform to be a tear. Here are two pics of the area (below are some additional pics of the engine as I am not 100% sure of what I have as it was supposedly from a '50 donner car. (Why my pics are loading upside down is a mystery to me ... They are correct on my computer .. Sorry)

Ah, sorry, I was stuck on the other pic

You should have a look at the DMP Fasteners links that I posted.....

Things on my to do list include rebuilding the suspension and brakes. I was thinking of taking the suspenation parts apart and having them powder coated. While they are being done, I would like to get the bushings and bearings needed ordered. Is there a preferred supplier or kit available? Also, I noticed on e bay that there are brake rebuild kits that look to include all the wheel cylinders etc. Do I need new cylinders, or can I hone out the old and replace the seals? Same question for the master cylinder... Who supplies those parts ? Thanks, Josh

DMP has it for sure... In either stainless or chrome http://dmpfasteners.com/shop/hardware-fasteners-1824/washers-92/external-countersunk-ss-161/ http://dmpfasteners.com/shop/hardware-fasteners-1824/bolts-screws-76/oval-machine-chrome-1616/ I'm not sure of the size studs that you need, but I'm willing to bet they will have it too http://dmpfasteners.com/shop/1-4-28-x-1-stud-grd-8-10512 Best thing is to call them as they are very knowledgeable (they told me about types of hardware I didn't even know existed) PS no affiliation

All items that would have been in the way of the engine came out yesterday as well as the driveshaft and transmission. Engine came out today as well as the fuel tank, fuel line and all of the wiring harnesses (dash items were last weeks project along with all bright work and wood doors). Thanks for all the advice so far.... I am a novice at this so please expect and excuse what might be dumb questions. A few questions that came up from the past few days work. 1. The Fluid drive housing has a small tear in it (car hasn't run in 40 years). Can this be welded/repaired? 2. I used the center head bolt 2nd from the rear to attach my listing chain and noticed that coolant came out. Normal? Or do I have a head gasket issue (previous owner said that the original engine had been replaced with I believe a '52 and had just had rings installed before it retired to the barn). 3. Gas tank is full of crud and I was going to have my local radiator shop boil it out along with the radiator. Is it a problem for the Oilite filter in there? Anything special that needs to be done or that I should make sure of? 4. Replacement fuel and brake lines. Do most go with steel, stainless steel or copper-nickel ? I've used the Cu-Ni (brand name Cunifer) in the past and making flairs was a breeze and had no leaks/seepage.