Sharps40

The factory one barrels are sized large enough to breath all the way up to the top of the rpm/power band. Two full size factory one barrels mean reduced signal at low rpm, where your flat head works/powers best. i.e. you move the "Best Signal" for the carb up the rpm range....its one reason why many have problems with low speed driveability with 2 or more full size singles on a small displacment 6. Jetting can not compensate for all of it and either way, you have installed an induction system that works on the upper end of the rpm/power band.....i.e. a highway system. Better is a single progressive two barrel like a Weber 32/36 or a pair of small singles like the Weber ICH or ICT or a pair of the Carter Weber Duals. These smaller carbs all have barrels/flow ratings on the small side, especially on the primariary barrel of the duals....essentially, the signal remains strong at low rpm and you make good power with very snappy response. When needed, the secondaries are brought in at about 60% throttle and your pair of duals now have a CFM rating closer to the rating of the pair of big singles that only work really well at high rpm. For instance, the Weber 32/36 provides about 350 cfm with both barrels open, similar to your old single stroms and carters....but since its a 2 barrel progressive you can "tune" the low range at 140 cfm or so and have fantastic power and responsivness for the vast majority of your driving. i.e. the duals don't have to compromize for good low and high rpm signals like the old singles which had to be large so as not to lose top end performance. As a general rule of thumb, a pair of smaller single or duals on the 6's will be tunable, even though the total CFM can be as large or larger than the pair of stroms/carter B&Bs. Think it thru, a pair of small barrel duals are no larger on the primaries than the single Strom/Carter and when open on the secondaries are not much larger than a pair of Strom/Carters. You get the good top end, great bottom end, responsiveness and much better mileage since about 80% of your driving will be done on the smaller primaries. Add an HEI, spend some time with jetting and exhaust analyzing and in a week or so you have a set up that starts like fuel injection hot or cold and you are done tuning anything for about 50K to 100k miles. Tom Langdon at Stovebolts is your Induction Master for double barrel and dual carbs on inline sixes. My 65 C10 250 six has not had the hood opened for carb adjustments since installing a Weber 32/36 two years back. Driven daily, it is approaching 40K trouble free miles. Ya may not like the look of the webers but if you want the best most tunable most adaptable most reliable carbs on the planet......just sayin. Just remember the general rule of thumb, if you're running multiple carbs or a double barrel, you need SMALLER Carbs. So your best choice of twin double barrels are the smaller carter webers. If you run a single double barrel, make it a progressive so you have a smaller than strom/carter primery and combined barrels approaching the cfm rating of a single strom/carter.....i.e. the single double barrel functions like 2 carbs, a low rpm and a high rpm. Luck.

Induction art is completed. Got a plaque made and found Mr Gasket air cleaners just like it used to have on it. Done just in time. Dad will be here this afternoon to hunt deer and he doesn't know his first speed parts have been turned into a display.

Webers, probably a pair of the small carter weber duals would run well right out of the box. Have to get or make adapters. Langdon Stovebolt Engine company. I see he is also releasing chrysler spitfire headers for the 25" engine soon.....

Rock auto lists a speed sleeve for the 52 coronet 230 as PN SKF 99218 {#12328942} Speedi-Sleeve http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1331749&groupname=Engine&ck[iD]=0&ck[idlist]=0&ck[viewcurrency]=USD&ck[php_SESSION_ID]=erh3viclhl87sukvjvutvbhjd7

This one from Oreilly is listed for the 1953 Dodge 230 L6 flathead. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BCA0/88218/02288.oap?year=1952&make=Dodge&model=Coronet&vi=1331749&ck=Search_repair+sleeve_02288_1331749_3884&keyword=repair+sleeve&pt=02288&ppt=C0332

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1954/dodge/meadowbrook/engine_mechanical/crankshaft_repair_sleeve.html for 54 medowbrook 3.8L but likely close. More than likely you can find it at oreilly's/advance, etc. Just have to reference the right National part numbers. I'm sure NAPA will have them too as the flatties were used in industrial applications (static/tractor/tug/forklift) clean into the 80s. Luck.

... neat car. Maybe a forum member will be lucky and snap it up. Thanks

99.9% sure it'll get a late model LS V8 with auto OD and all the accessories like PS, AC, EFI, etc. Rear gear will be about 3.73,likely posi.

A little induction art. I just need to choose air cleaners to finish it. Needed some aluminum welding and cast iron brazing to put them back into service shape. Not undoable but gave it a lot of thought. It was Dads first hot rod induction. The old 217.8" Flat 6 D5 engine, .030 over, .060 off the head, Dual Carbs, Edmonds Intake and Split Manifold Dual Exhaust and a skilled up hill driver. First car he regularly broke 100 MPH in. (First car I broke 100 mph in too!) Doesn't sound like much but Dad typically did it up hill and down hill (naturally, easier) on South Mountain Maryland and around Camp Sinoquipe BSA in the same mountains but on the Pennsylvania side of the Mason Dixon Line. At the time, Dad worked at Camp Sinoquipe and drove their daily, he new the mountain roads with his eyes closed. Many is the bet he won driving Ol Bessy against Straight 8 and V8 motors (late 50s and early 60s) on those mountains. The bet was always first over the top wins. Ol Bessy, with her Twin Ball and Ball carbs pulled and pulled and pulled in third gear, eventually pulling in front of the 8s on the long steep grade stretches where Dad knew he could pass and stay in front over the top. A plaque is on the way. It will be engraved as follows, with the fourth line being his full name: 100 MPH! 1937 Dodge Sinoquipe, South Mountain Together We Ate The 8's!

He said try cleaning and or adding a good ground to your center light. Bad grounds often result in weakly glowin/flashing bulbs that would otherwise be off

Well, since its only noisy when the wheels are moving as you stated up front (both on the ground and in gear on stands) Check the transmission and all the components from trans back. Especially check the transmission (inside) and u-joints on the drive shaft. My guess is burn outs have bunglefutzed the transmissions guts or the u-joints. Once fixed, might consider that burn outs with 65 year old running gear is a high risk of failure activity. Just sayin.....

I just drop rusty parts in venigar and come back in a few weeks when I've got ton bored enough to start the cleanup. Slower but nothin to "manage" during the wait time

It was strange. Very exciting up to the first touch then at a loss and confused. No way to express feelings or plans. It's good the pros have it. They are able to keep the perspective and ask the questions that pry out the thoughts.

Dad, with Ol Bessy. Smiling and telling me about how Mom got her drivers test and license when she was 16 years old in this car! Pillows under her bottom and back and a wood block on each of the gas, clutch and brake pedals! And me, thinkin hard and kickin myself for ever letting this one go. Thank Heaven for Dad's!

This is the underside of the gull wing/alligator nosed hood. Fortunately, all straight and I have a complete spare for this one too if ever needed, including all the trim and the elusive RAM hood ornament! The "Bits and Bites" all stowed here for sorting and repair and reinstallation later.... And here in the corner of the shop, (looking at it from the inside view) an entire spare cowl and firewall with lower windshield posts. Most important here is that we kept this whole with the front body mounts and door pillars/hinge points intact if we ever need it....

Running boards, at least this one, appear to be in miraculous condition. We'll have to check the other but it looks like these will get light repairs and reinstalled. Out front the nose and fenders being worked. The fenders will need final shaping to blend out accident damage where it mates to the grill shell and then dipped or blasted to get them ready for paint. Replacement drivers fender is mated/matched. Original Passenger fender is nearly completed.

Drivers side, where all the accident damage was, very nearly dead straight and prepping the final panels in the cowl. Firewall/cowl, front door, rear door, center door post and rear quarter all pulled out and reshaped. Some welding to do and some hinge repairs but this side will be pretty close to bondo free when competed. Up front the nose is off and the firewall is perfectly wrinkle free. Significant repairs to the front floor and restoration of the toe board for the hand brake. Passenger side, some rot repairs to do on the lower cowl and the panels are already made up. Doors are hung and rough aligned....all door rust repaired. A bit of work to do in the lower rear door post. But at least this side did not need a cut out and replacement from the parts car of the center door post. Out back, a total removal of the rotted trunk and hand crafting of a new deck and roll pan under the trunk lid. The new pan tacked in and as you see, bead rolled for strength and good looks.

In the shop being worked was a 48 woodie, 2 nd gen 442, 54 caddy, 67 vw van, a chevelle, a stud avanti, 54 nomad wagon, a 39 chevy sedan! Ol Bessy is in the right place. Here we go. First look in 23 years for me!

Yes. V belts work from tension and wedging in the pully (s). Tension should be the lowest amount that dosn't slip under highest load. For example, on the water pump, highest tension is usually at start up. On powersteering, highest load may well be at full lock. In any event, there should be a slight deflection of the slack leg of the belt at highest load. If there is no deflection of the slack leg, the belt is too tight and will squeel as will one that is too loose. As for wedging, the belt must be wide enough not to bottom in the pully. Worn out pulleys may also slip/squeel even though the belt is correctly dimensioned and tensioned. Where possible, replace ancient used pulleys with quality modern pulleys. Toothed v-belts, tighten more as they heat than untoothed v belts, however, adjustment is the same. If yer not nuts about Concours points, toothed v-belts run better/last longer and though pricier, are a fine reliability upgrade.

Monday's the day. 23 long years.

Less than a week to go, and I should get to see and touch Ol Bessy for the first time in a long time. Email to Dad this morning: Dad, Interesting bits about the old Dodge Original Base Price: $830 Number of 1937 4 Door Touring Sedans Produced: 185483 Weight: 2912 lbs. Length: 196.125" or 16 ft. 4 1/8 in. Horsepower: 87 Total Serial Number Range for all 1937 Dodge models 4530451 to 4789907 Vin Location: Right front door hinge pillar post. Additional Serial Numbers include 9118501 to 9149360 and 9409056 to 9413740 Factory Colors may have included: Golden Beige, Mercury Metallic, Stratosphere Blue, Dodge Blue, Regal Maroon, Dodge GunMetal, Chillon Green, Echelon Green and Gyro Blue Dads response: Rich, All great pieces of data. And I bought it in 1958 for $50. Do you realize---we have owned it for 57 years!! That's as long as my marriage---what great choices I made, and now are yours to make.

But its all good advice and whr the suspension call is made we will think it through with some deliberation. Part of the equation is the car is 7 hours away from my garage!

Pretty much the across the boards responses and inline with my experiences on the c10s.....the parts, no matter rarity or condition, aint worth much!

Havn taken anything off yet. But my recent experience with parting out c10s is even at dirt cheep and often free, "I want it/gotta have it/thats the part I been needin for a lifetime" balk and then back out on shipping costs alone!

Well, word I'm getting from several other forums is the suspension parts will not likely be worth the hassle to move 500 miles from the shop to here and then advertise and over the road ship such large/heavy items. We'll have to make a call later but 9c/lb for scrap iron is the final option if we decide to pull and replace with more modern components. Thanks all.