Sharps40

Work on/check out old cars in this order.... Start (Validates engine/associated sysems) Run (Validates trans/differential/suspension issues and exercises items above under varying loads) Stop (Validates brakes/tires) From there....Fix or mod in the same order. Last is Cosmetics. Dead Last.

Just go one step at a time starting with the simple stuff.

Do the simple stuff first. Check the accuracy of the gage. A bourdon tube or even electric gage at nigh onto 80 years old is likely inaccurate. Get an electric and check it against both a thermometer in the radiator top and an infra red read out on the water neck, etc. Then.......replace gage or go through all the wickets for a slightly hot engine....which include coolant system review and repair, complete ignition tune, check for dragging brakes/slipping clutch, ad infinitum. Could be a simple gage issue.

Convert to 12 Neg ground using a delco 10SI or 12SI and add a GM HEI (Tom Langdon, Stovebolt Engine Company, Michigan). Combine that with taking the load off your headlight switch and out from under the dash by installing a self resetting circuit breaker and a relay for each of High and Low beam (pulling power directly from the battery) and it'll be the best under $300 ya ever spent on reliability. (Pullys for wide and narrow belts are widely available on the aftermarket to adapt the alternator.) Install the internally regulated alternator first as it won't make the HEI frying voltage spikes of an externally regulated alternator or standard 12v generator. Perfect, smooth and reliable power. Once the HEI goes in, the engine will run stronger, longer and better with higher mpg. Once the relays are in, you can install Halogen or HID headlights receiving the full 14.5 volts at the lights and drive at night with modern car visibility. As for the fuze block, great idea, along with eliminating the often dangerous amp meter in the dash, replace it with a volts gage if you want to see a needle moving around in the slot. These two modifications will reduce your fire hazard significantly.

Understood. Budget is 10 to 16k and given initial look may be more than needed for getting to driver status using an old power pack and suspension. Will know more once we dig in and can make better than quick visual evals. If budget allows we may take advantage of late model capabilities under the hood and frame

It not an original car, but it is our car. Its ours, that's what's important, not whether it meets any particular criteria in the car community. Has not been an original car since 1957 when Dad bought it and started doing the changes he wanted to make it his. The car does not have a flathead.....it currently has a Ford 200/C4 combination. Dad an I left the flathead (60 over, 90 off head, Dual Carter BB, Split Manifold dual exhaust, etc.) out on the lawn many years back. Don't take the post wrong, we'll investigate all options, but Nah. The shop I'm dealing with kept Dads secret for 20 years. To suggest they are money mongering is to make a spurious statement from a lack of knowledge of the personalities involved, their relationships, the current personal situation(s), etc. Which, all in all, is to be expected and forgivable since none here have been in on the many conversations. Have faith. Ol Bessie will be treated well. Every project needs a plan and an alternate to prevent it becoming a Craigslist ad for a box of parts! (Dayum, that coulda happened here to Ol Bessie!) We're discussing what's best for the way we want to use the vehicle. And given some recent family health concerns, I have decided that Dad and I laying under the car farting around with our share of the restoration work like brakes, suspension, wiring harness, tuning, etc....are steps that (with a suitable budget) go away in favor of a set up that gets the car on the road sooner and with no questions as to reliability. Whats best may well be original suspension and the Ford drive line, or it may be a change out to something less than 78 years old. I should have held the car and fixed it years ago. As it is, Dad held the car for me because that's what Dads do and now I am driven to have this ready for both of us to drive while we still can and for as long as we still can.

probably not. If we change out the ford six it will likely get a chevy 6 or 8 oa a ford 8.

We are not worried about the suspension either. Nothing beyond 468 dollars average nos price for a break drum! If the budget is large enough, makes sense to remove those items in favor of something more nimble, recognizable and available/less costly. We plan to drive it and one of the things to consider is service parts and service men in East Buttwhistle Wyoming or any of the Buttwhistles in all states I'll be driving to and through during retirement. If its off the shelf and in the available specs books, a breakdown doesn't have to be the end of the trip.

Before ya break out the wrenches and totally rebuild the engine again, inspect, tune, test and maybe check torques. If you don't see any thing more scary than that little bit of gunk in the motor, go for a drive. One of the dangers of asking for advice is the advice you get. Often it'll worry one to death when what ya should do is run through the inspection and tuning procedures in the applicable MOTORS manual so ya can tick off all the simple things first. If it passes all that and since it seemingly ran fine as froghairs 2 miles off the truck and starts and idles pretty well, you can then have some confidence in driving it. After 500 miles its liable not to be so stiff and dry from a near 40 year sit, heck, might not even putt putt. Heck, only 20 seconds into a cold motor after a week sit, looks and sounds just fine. Just my opinion and no offense but yer wringin yer hands without cause at this point. If a good inspection, test, tune and long Sunday drive reveals any demons, then wring them hands. For now, that flatty sounds nice nice at cold start fast idle!

Dad was down at Classic Automotive again last night. He and Jim had another grand hoot and holler at my expense. Much additional talk about Ol Bessie and at least from an initial look....The projected budget for a running driving painted car (using the existing 200 Ford/C4) may be excessive. They had a lot of talk about concerns for a zero mileage engine overhauled 20+ years ago, same for the trans. And, at this point, we all recognize that a 74 Maverick engine and trans is in fact an antique power pack. In addition, much discussion of the 78 year old suspension (5000 miles from rebuild and 20+ years growing stiff from lack of use) which lead to how little can the car be lowered by placing an independent front with rack/pinion and possible replacement power pack options. In some follow up discussion with Dad this afternoon, it seems the Corvette is nearly ready for paint and could be moving off the floor in a couple weeks thus freeing up the 3 man team to tackle Ol Bessie. For now, we are exploring the budget and whether it allows for a total driver quality do over with modern suspension (without getting stupid low) and the possibility of a V6 or 8 cylinder and 4 speed overdrive automatic........... WeeeOhhhhhh! Ol Bessie could come back not only pretty but strong too!

Oxy Acetylene torch! Best wrench ever invented....with it, nothing, not even rusty steel can remain in place for long.

Rebuilt in the 80s, 300 miles and sat.......Its likely just some normal accumulation of junk. Its not an inordant amount either given a supposed rebuild and long as heck sit. Good news, its fines, not chunks of stuff. Change the oil and filter. Get it warm and tune it. Check valve lash hot and for rotation of the lifters when running. Check vacum and run a wet and dry compression test. If the motor specs good (compression/vacuum), and since its not clunking/banging/thumping or thudding, then go drive and enjoy, change the oil at 500 and then again at 1000. 300 miles and a quarter century sit,..... the rings are not even seated. As to the occasional putt putt at the pipe.....slightly sticky valve, slightly worn carb or just a simple lean idle miss (carb and tune will get down to 1 putt every 10 to 30 seconds or so).....want a lean idle miss gone for ever, go to electronic ignition and weber carb.

A good talk with the shop owner this morning. Our first contact in 20+ years. Quite a bit of laughing over the joke played. Follow up email to reestablish contact and get the evaluation processes rolling as we await the final movement of the ol Dodge from stuck in the corner to shop floor..... "Mr. Walker, Good to talk to you this morning. Contact information is listed below the signature. Quite a secret and glad to have it out of the bag! Ideal desire is running/driving/done. Somewhere in between works too. Ultimate goal is a look like it was in the late 50s. Metallic blue (current metallic color or perhaps Cobra Midnight Blue Metallic), close to stock ride height but with modern agility on the road as an occasional town and highway driver. As we discussed, if the budget demands less than Running/Driving/Done, priority starts with body work and paint + glass/rubber, with a nod toward doing much of the heavy lifting underneath to avoid paint damage/painted panel removal later. If there is any question on the existing engine/trans don't bother to square and level/finalize the mounting as we can discuss new power train. The old 4.10 dodge rear must go in favor of a modern rear. Any make is fine....would be convenient to match the make to the power train, i.e. Ford to Ford, Chevy to Chevy, etc. Original suspension under it is 5000 miles since being rebuilt, however it's 25 odd years since it was greased or rolled. If smart, I am open to a modern suspension, but, would like to avoid the super low hot rod look. Power disc/drum or disc/disc on a dual master cylinder are pretty much a mandatory safety item as well as lap belts (2 front, 2 or 3 rear). Much more to it I am sure. I'll be sure to rely heavily on you and your craftsmen's knowledge and expertise. Mark me more than a bit excited! Standing by here. (Well, actually, jumping up and down waiving and shouting!)"

Gawd help ya's if yer a talkin dizzy's wif a wild eyed Southrn Boy!

I always used desoldering wick for the wire in the dizzy. Crimped terminals and then either insulated with tape or heat shrink tube. Very flexible, seemed to last and last. Desoldering wick has rosin on it. If you want to solder the terminals on its fine or you can simply use finly braded ground strap if the presence of the rosin in the soldiern wick causes ya concern. Either way, insulate yours with heat shrink tube works well. Ya can even add a second layer of heat shrink where the wire bends and typically rubs the inside of the dizzy.

PROGRESS! Financial restructure is completed for looming retirement, early on on time, it dont' matter now! I own the jeep! Huge medical debt moved off the table! $10K available for the Dodge. Come on now, get that corvette off the floor and get a steel car under the Flame Wrench!

Man....I hope I never let this one go again.

I have no idea what strength it takes to hold a secret and a plan for 23 years. Last month I was hours from buying a running driving 37 D5, sight unseen when I found it'd been sold. Since February, I nearly went to Maine 3 times for another one but couldn't break out 3 consecutive days from work. Last eve, we stop out at the local corner Country Store. Chatting over the deck of the Versa about the weather, the new gas pumps, sipping Cokes. Like we've done for a lifetime over the hood or deck of innumerable cars and trucks. Dad says, You still own the Dodge. Don't be angry. I bought it back the day you sold it. Jim is going to howl when I tell him that ya finally know the secret! I didn't sleep much last night. When I did, I dreamt the kids eye view through the passenger side of the open windshield, a flying Ram trailing an expanse of Midnight Blue.....

Dad is here. A visit. News. The Dodge is mine again. It was never not mine, since I was 16. I drove it daily till I was 30 when it was wrecked. I spent all my money on a lawyer chasing a drunk with nothing and nothing was left to fix it. I sold it. 23 years ago. The day I sold it. 23 years ago. Dad bought it back. He and Jim kept it a secret. Working on it occasionally as time and manning and money permitted. Stored away in the hot rod shop. Waiting for 23 years. Till I wanted it back. I almost bought one in Chicago last month. It was sold the day I arrived to look at it. The title, in my name, never transferred has sat in secret in Dads lock box waiting. For 35 years it has been my car. Before that, since 1957, Dad was the second owner of the Ol Dodge. Its coming home.

From a close look at the photos, much of the body work and rust repair is already done. I confirmed my memory of installing a modern pressurized radiator for the new Ford L6. I can't tell if the rear axle is original or a Ford 9". I seem to remember having perches welded on a modern axle......All the suspension is like new. 22 years old, 2000 miles! Email from Dad today: "Rich: Soooo many things to consider, but they will all fall into line. I met with Jim yesterday, and talked with two of the fellows who do the restoration work. They are working on a Corvette body now, getting it ready to remount to the frame. Jim says the Dodge can then be brought into the system for work. I told him that we would like to get it running, have all the rust and body repair work completed. The rust in floorboards and trunk have already been completed---by Billy, no longer works there. I took photos---can't see much---there are fenders etc on the top, the interior is filled, and boxes on the hood. Will be better able to assess things when Jim calls it into the shop. We did not discuss any prices---just that what you would like to have from him is a running car, nice would be painted and upholstered, but with the possibility that a fender or panel might have to be replaced, maybe just a primer job and do the final paint and upholstering at your end. We are getting closer to having some work done on the Dodge---can't put a hard date on it. I'll keep visiting and pleading to be next into the shop. Try and be patient---but I too can get a real good feeling about that one being back on the road. Takes me back to 1957...."

Its there. It might be here eventually. A Corvette is ahead of it. We don't know if we can afford to buy or buy and work but its there and we are working it. I cried when I saw the photos.

I'll put this in here as a place holder and hopefully no only will it come home after 21 years but I'll be able to tell the story of bringing it back to life herein. Dad called. We have been looking for a 37 Dodge to take the place of Ol John Lee the 65 Chevy Truck I had been driving. Fortunatly he found the car. My/his/our car. His Dad bought it for him. I worked with him on it and road around in it all my life. It became mine at 20 years old and I drove it till a drunk hit me on the drivers side totaling it when I was 30. I sold it. Dad found it. Its been sitting in the hotrod shop in VA for 21 years waiting to be finished. The owner knows we want it back. As is, or accident damage repaired and running/driving. So for now Dad and the shop owner talked it over and Ol Bessie is "Back in the Que" for repairs. Don't know what the costs will be or if I can even afford it but we'll start with trying to own it again and move out from there. With luck I can at least geti it home to the garage.....maybe more. As it sits, and just before the wreck 21 years ago it had: New upholstery that I sewed myself from scratch, I had redone all the woodgrain finish on the metal trim, rebuilt the dash gauges, installed a new wiring harness, built a Ford 200 6 with weber carb, new radiator, TCI Streetfighter C4 Trans, new leaf springs and shackels, new front suspension and kingpins (wonder how many folks don't have a clue what kingpins are?), rebuilt the steering box and brake system, new glass, new rubber. It was a solid daily driver. For years with a flathead and three speed and all that work had under 1000 miles on it when the accident occured. But, Dad said he wants the shop to work up the estimates on a running driving car with the accident damage fully repaired. We'll see......I am excited and guarded at the same time.

Thanks all. Much warmer welcome here and on the HAMB. Solid information both places too and I greatly appreciate the advice coming back to the car of my youth after 22 years away.

That may well be a plan. Kingpins/tierods/draglink are all new. Box seems okay. My primary concern since box parts are available is less the box and more the mainshaft of the steering column. Experience with the old Chevy Trucks shows the bearings eventually cut through the shaft and I'm assuming pcolumn parts on a 78 year old dodge will be hard to find. Was considering mating an Ididit to the original box or a rebuilt box. But, its been a while since I searched for parts on this car (22 years) so have some digging to do. It was Dads car, then mine and I drove it daily till i was 30 when it was hit by a drunk. We sold the wreck and recently found it. Buying it back with restomodding soon to start! I am hoping by October of this year or sooner to have a running, driving painted and upholstered 37 D5 4 Door Humpback back in my garage. For 22 years I never thought I'd see it again! Currently, it has a ford 200 L6 and C4 installed with about 1 hour of run time! Disc brakes, new rear and accident/rust damage repair should be starting at the shop in a few weeks. Dad is working with the shop on the plan and I am working the finances. Maybe by fall, Dad and I will be driving again in "our" first car together, Ol Bessie is coming home and we are both beyond excited. Dad is 76 but already indicates we are hunting and fishing from Ol Bessie, just like we did when i was a kid.....but with me driving and him fiddling with the crank open windshield! Pops is supposed to get photos of the current state of the vehicle, with 22 years of dirt on it this week when he visits the shop to start laying out the plans. I told him to hug her from me!