Sharps40

I'll check in the am......Believe curve points in so when the windshield is closed the lip of the seal presses on the cowl, pillars and roof line....but, I'll come back with a pic if I can.

Well, another big shout out to JacksPA and his pal who sold me the Plymouth parts to help with our restomod of Old Bessy by way of needed items and spares. I have already shipped the items we needed forward and put the rest back for spares and small parts when the finish work starts.....and....rapidly approaching break even on the cost. Those items I just couldn't use cause Plymouth is different than dodge, trim, badges, headlight lenses, etc. Still got two big pieces that won't work for the dodge and I expect they will push me just over the top, or at least pay for all the fancy doodads in lighting that I've recently acquired. But, I sold a Plymouth badge last week and got me a nifty pair of camo sneakers and some camo flip flops for the April fishing trip with Wncdeerhunter......So, rest easy fellas, no stinky feet on my side of the cabin this trip, new clean shoes!!!!!!!

We've had too many old cars and trucks through the years to even hope for a ground (self grounding or via bracketry) to last at any level of quality and eventually need a ground wire anyway....so.... Opening these up they appear to have had a ground but in the modification for use as park/turn instead of fog, said ground was removed. Since its riveted in, and since there is a convenient hole already provided in the bulb socket, that's where I'll connect ground to. Black is run, green is turn and since its the only color I have, blue will be ground. A soldered spade terminal and screw and nut and fish the wire down through the mounting post with the other wires. Snap the bulb back into the modified lens assembly and snug it down with the spring wire and its ready to go back together. Then I went out to DeerGetter, connected the wires to the battery and lovely....amber and bright amber on both light assemblies. Packed em up and tomorrow they ship north to Dad and Old Bessy.

Saturday email to Dad..... Dad, Front turn signals and running lights arrived. They are set up to ground thru the brackets (like many original old accessories) and bumper to the frame. I'll add a proper wired ground from the bulb socket and then ship them to you in a day or so. They look good and will resolve any lighting/signaling issues for Bessie's Front End. Now to figure out how to switch her butt from brake/run only to break/run/turn using the original rear lamp buckets. I have spare rear buckets here to experiment with, perhaps a new set of internal bracketry is all that's needed with a proper socket.... Will ship the solution when its completed and proofed. Rich.

Lets see, replaced my 37 dodge windshield rubber years back....same windshield frame as plymouth. And just last week disassembled a 37 plymouth winshield to start cleanin it up. Lynn steel has a one piece gasket.....havn't tried one but years back its what I put on my dodge and when the time comes, ill likely try it out on my plymouth windshield. Steel was always my go to for rubber parts, with luck, the quality ain't changed in the intervening years. http://www.steelerubber.com/search?c=/windshield-gasket&year=1937&make=plymouth&model=deluxe-p4&style=4-door-sedan Yes, your glass sits in the frame and between the frame and glass, in the u-channel is window setting tape. Any glass shop will have it. Side windows, no help here.....did mine so long ago I forgot how and now its torn apart for the restomod, ain't got to that part again!

Couple options...same store, differences in catalog. So, rodtique. On ebay. Sample link below. Now on ebay, from rodtique you'll find 6 and 12v incandesent set ups with choices of bracketry in alloy, steel, painted steel and chromed steel. In addition, you'll likely see the coupon code for about $20 off. http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-Volt-Turn-Signal-5-Amber-Fog-Running-Lights-Chrome-Brackets-Car-Truck-1-/290943683926?hash=item43bd984d56:g:0RQAAOxyUfFTkd4S&vxp=mtr Or..... Slide over to http://www.rodtiques.com/ and you'll see a white lens/yellow LED set which I did not find on ebay. In addition, you'll find other options on stands/brackets in the catalog that so far I have not seen on the rodtique ebay store. The stock appears different between the two catalogs, so, check both to see all the possibilities.

Some more searching around. Period looks, modern performance and a quick email to Dad this AM as I have found what I want to complete the lighting out front.... Dad. Ordering the attached photo soon. Last item for a while, a bit tapped out! But, these will be the front turn signals on the Dodge. Will forward them to you on arrival. While they appear to be a vintage fog lamp, they are in fact wired with a dual filiment 1157 bulb connect to the running and turn signal system. Since they appear ground through the bumper bracket (like the originals would have, and which is a long term unstatisfactory arrangement), I will likely add a separate ground wire before shipping. This will allow tieing back to the frame or ground side of the wiring harness. Next you're at the shop, likely soon as the headlight adapters should arrive at your house today....shoot me a photo or two of the car and grab a quick progress update. Also, if any more funds are needed. I have a bit of room on the credit card. Rich

Back from a whirlwind training tour of Nevada and Kansas.....6 airplanes in 7 days....I'm worn in or out but for sure, I don't have a clue what time it is on the east coast....but, a package arrived in the mail while I was out and some therapeutic effort tonight and an email to Dad and a package going up Ol Bessy's way tomorrow morning.... Dad, The Headwinds headlight inserts with dual beam halogen blubs and trim is in the mail to you. Photos below. One side is done an ready to install inside the bucket when the bucket is painted and on the car. The other side is nearly done. You need to recover at least one v-clip, one spring and one cup from the old black headlight bucket at Mr. Jims shop. Instructions and installation trim is also in the box. Use caution with the springs....they are $180 for a set and I can't buy just one part, I have to buy a full set of springs clips and cups to get just one part! The bulbs are halogen, dual beam, sealed. A significant upgrade over the original silvered reflectors and bulbs. Mr. Jim and his crew will wire these on relays pulling direct from the battery....so no worries about the old days when the 6v sealed beam kit we installed used to blow the single fuse on the dash every 10 minutes! It'll be perfect, just like a modern car. Rich

Morning email to Dad..... Dad, Working on the 37 Plymouth windshield frame this morning. Glass was broken, so separated top and bottom halves and got it out of there. As for the frames, I'll upgrade my assessment of this spare part. Stainless trim is good to excellent. Upper frame half is in exceptionally good condition. Lower frame half is much better than first look indicated. While rust is heavy, upon separating (successfully and without damage) the lower stainless trim, the lower frame itself is easily repairable and will serve as a fine spare for the original windshield frame if we need it. This one needs heavy cleaning and rust removal and has only a few small pin hole that can be filled with lead. Heavy abuse with awl and screwdriver tip all over shows very strong steel around the pin holes. Eventually, I'll do further clean up and hit it with rust converter to hold it where it is against a future need.

Email to Dad tonight....(From the windshield sticker, looks like the last registration of this car in NC was 1968.....that's a long sit) Dad, Picked up the last of the purchased parts of that 37 Plymouth sedan. Windshield....fair to poor lower frame, good upper frame and good trim. I believe overall, the windshield in Mr. Walkers shop is better in the frame and the trim. Windshield hinges for spares. I have all the nuts and bolts for the windshield installation as well. Windshield crank mechanism for a spare....this was the gold under the dash. Its not available at all and the only one I saw for sale in years was $1000. This one is complete, fully functional and a spare part (the one under the dodge dash seems to be in fine shape) so I'll put it back as what breaks is the tape and the gear. (Fond memories as a kid, Dad driving, me opening the windshield about 8 to 10 inches on a frosty day and the cold air blowin tears out the corners of my eyes as Dad steered Bessy down the road, Ram leaping off the long long blue hood....soon, soon again.) Finally, I have a complete set of Factory running board brackets. So, you and Mr. Walker let me know what works best for the smoothie boards at the shop.....the new brackets I already shipped up with the smoothie boards or as needed, I'll send these originals if the fit is better. I suspect these will be a near direct bolt up as the smoothie boards were supposedly made to attach to the factory brackets. Either new or old brackets is fine, whatever is not used, I'll hold as spares/repair parts.

Mailed Dad a big box of parts, including the nearly pristine headlight buckets off the local 37 Plymouth. He immediately took it all to the builder and they went over them and compared.....most of the Plymouth parts I sent will be going onto the old dodge, including headlight buckets, trunk handle, trunk mechanism, trunk hook, trunk hinge washers and bolts, bumper bolts (stainless capped), the license bracket for the trunk (Plymouth is perfect, the dodge one is way pitted), etc. Also ordered the headwinds 7" headlight adapters....as the original lights in 37 were 8 1/8". So, on arrival, I'll do some preassembly and install the halogen bulbs and then ship them up to Dad for the shop. That way, we can be sure the adapters are properly assembled and non of the springs get broken.. ... the spring assemblies are about $40 each set for repops and six each sets are needed to mount two lights. I have 5 original good condition spring assemblies here and should have three good spare assemblies up at the shop....so, room for one error on each side before I have to spend way too much for repop springs and clips.

I am scrapping all the suspension of my 37 d5. Nobody wants it including the stuffy fellers on aaca since shipping is often higher than the parts value. Sheet metal and trim and smaller bolt ons are more in demand. As for the motor bits for the 37....scrapping that too. Nobody wants it unless you will essentially drive it to them.

Bodywork is done. Dad emailed. Car is in the bay and totally wrapped in plastic to keep it free of grease while the front and rear suspension and drive line is installed. That is big big news! New rolling stock soon and 310 horses to go go go!

Huge score. I am tickled.

Rear doors, complete inside and out....fantastic awesome wonderful very koolski condition. Front doors, everything I said about the rear doors applies and the hard to find drivers side door lock and mechanism also with.....drum roll....A KEY!

Brackets, I believe these are for rear bumper, gotta check......straighter than mine in any event. Rear bumper. No show winner but pretty straight and a good one to hang on to just in case. A pair of front fenders....again, wonderfully curvaceous and rust and dent free.

The larger parts that were on the trailer last night..... Good trunk with functional lock and key! Hoo Ahh! Running boards, too short for a dodge and very thin and nearly shot...so, possibly not keepers. Marvelous wonderful and beautiful grill shell with a grill that with some patience can be put into right as rain shape. Trim surrounds are rougher but useable for a driver. Different from the dodge so, we'll see........I'll be keeping the fender braces though....very hard to find. A pair of spare rear fenders....marvelously straight and rust free. Will have to double check....make sure these are same size, pretty sure they are a swap for the Dodge.

Next week will pick up the windshield, its chrome trim, the windshield crank and the running board brackets.

The window garnish The awesome hood out of Deergitters back seat...Dayumnear perfect too. Front seat of Deergitter with head and tail lights and hood side panel trim These headlight buckets are going straight to VA for install.....

The seats out, perfect springs. Full box of interior trim parts... Spare front fender splash panels Back seat is the complete hood, all door window garnish, spare vent windows with latches, etc.

Teaser pics till I can get it unloaded, sorted and stowed away with better photos. But a great deal at $1200 and I am so dayum excited. Tons of little stuff I need that woulda been hard to find and durned spensive. Trailer full of sheet metal, 4 doors, 4 fenders, grill shell with grill, trunk, running boards, bumper. (Doors and trunk have keys. Doors have all glass, check straps, hinges, window mechanisms, etc....complete!) Wife's jeep stuffed full of seats with perfect springs and all the door panels and arm rests for templates.

Rollin home with parts. Deer getter, trailer and jeep absolutely pig stuffed with parts and gotta go back for windshield and crank out mechanism. Seats, trim sheet metal grill chrome glass....got it all. Even headlight lenses and stainless trim. Meso happy!

Cowboy guns: The Packhorse, 44 Magnum, 3.5", Rust brown and black. A New Model/Old Model, 3.5" Rust brown and black with amboynia burl Mr. Belly Gun, 3.5" with Afzelia Zylay A Gentleman's Workhorse, 3.5" with Bloodwood The 1860 Army Blackhawk with Bloodwood, they said it couldn't be done, marry a Colt Brass 1860 grip to a New Model Blackhawk The Lightning Blackhawk with Spalted Curly Maple

Memorize. There is magic in the poetry. Recite while conducting research, and the bandwidth of the Armchair King will approach Zero. Recite while conducting restoration and repair, and the MOPAR will leap forward into Glory. Twas winter and the MOPAR lay Rusting slow upon cinder block: All critics typed “You Hack” to slay, And the Wannabe’s cried SLOP! "Beware the Armchair King, my son! The words that bite, the posts that catch! Beware the Know It All, and shun The Imperious Keyboard Klatch!" He took his torqueing wrench in hand: Long time the pompous foe he sought -- So rested he by the drill press stand, And stood awhile in thought. And, as in deepest thought he stood, The Armchair King, with eyes of flame, Came snorting through transistered woods, And burbled as it came! One, two! One, two! His knuckles bled! The torque wrench dial went clicky-klack! He left it dead, and with its head He went a cruising back. "And, has thou slain the Armchair King? Come to my arms, my beamish boy! O frabjous day! Callooh! Callay!" He chortled in his joy. Twas winter and the MOPAR lay Rusting slow upon cinder block: All critics typed “You Hack” to slay, And the Wannabe’s cried SLOP!

Yep. I did the same to a 250 chevy six. Ran 18 initial with the soft can advance of 10 and 8000 miles later, catastrophic failure, cracked two pistons. Couldn't hear it pinging since it was an old truck and rattled like heck. Install, use factory initial advance setting, that could be, as I recall, 0 to 4 degrees depending on the engine. Drive. Tweak the initial timing. Somewhere in the 0 to 10 BTDC is going to make the engine super happy and not ping it into self destruction. Your vacuum can will be marked with the advance. Its likely 10 degrees, a soft can.