Sharps40

Good luck. Monday 24 August I'll be near ya in manassas va seeing my 37 d5 for the first time in 23 years

Please folks. Don't turn this into an ad and get it deleted before its even answered.....just some advice based on yer newer than mine experiences in the market.

Ya got enough room in there to install prolly a 7 or 8" water core. Get a new 12v or 6v motor for $30 bucks and round up a good multi speed under dash switch like the originals and hook the new core up with a nice control valve on the block or fire wall and have at it. Nice original looking accessory, reliable function and no torch parties.

Not a for sale thread. Asking a question, seeking opinions. (I have been totally outside of the MOPAR restoration/parts acquisition area for over 23 years and have no real idea what fair values look like these days) We are reworking a 1937 Dodge D5 4 Door Touring Sedan. (This is the early 37 model as identified by the knob pull dash switches as opposed to the drawer pull dash switches) It is highly likely the original suspension will be removed and replaced with a modern set up. IF I decide to sell the original components, what might be fair valuations (not considering shipping as that varies too much) as follows: 1. Front Axle and spindles, with NOS kingpins (kingpins replaced 25 years ago, under 2500 total miles on the king pins) 2. Original sway bar 3. Steering column and box, pitman/draglink, functional original, not rebuilt 4. Steering cross bar with NOS tie rod ends (rebuilt 25 years ago, under 2500 total miles on tie rod ends) 5. NOS Front and rear springs and shackels (replaced 25 years ago, under 2500 total miles on springs and shackels) 6. 4 original high mileage (about 100000 or so) brake drums 7. Front/Rear brake hardware/cylinders 8. Original rebuilt 3 speed trans with ebrake drum (rebuilt 24 +/- years ago, under 1000 total miles on it) 9. Ford drive shaft updated with modern u joints which fit the original 1937 Dodge trans and rear end pinion 10. 1937 Dodge rear axle with differential, 4.1 ratio, original high mileage, say 100000ish miles

Can you fluf it up and change the guts around a bit to fit a standard hot water heater core with fan motor? You'd have the look and eliminate the hazards.

With any luck, I will get to see and touch this old car for the first time since 1991/1992 on 24 August! Road trip!!!!!

LF fender from the doner car bought and cut up for panels back when the wreck happened. Rear floor plan areas nearly done, just some corner work to do in the cowl section and at the rear doors. A bit of rot to work out at the rear of the trunk pan and the apron under it. Drivers side rear door post and fenderwell accident damage repaired and the door being rehung.

These photos represent the end of Week 2 (10 Business days of work) since pulling it from the corner and inventorying the mess! It was a fight....the photos are coming in as part of the html document in the email instead of attached jpg......I gotta show Dad how! Anyway, recovered some of the photos and will get the rest off the big computer later. Front floor pan and firewall pretty much done, the old dash (25 years ago I redid all the woodgrain!) still looks fair. Lokar shifter on the TCI Streetfighter C4 that's been tentatively installed for 23 years is sticking up through the floor pan. Up in the engine bay, the brand new moderate performance build Ford 200 L6 that we put in so many years back....it has about 30 mins or less run time on it. Might be replaced with a V8.

Just got an updated set of photos from Dad. Seems the trunk floor still needs work, probably have to make it from scratch. Still repairing some rot at the lower cowls but doors hung and the final bits of accident damage along the door posts are corrected. Trying to get the photos moved from the phone to the computer, stand by.

Updates to my Diagram post for 5 pin relays and an opinion on polarity.

Pretty simple wiring job and 99% of the load disappears off your old or small contact/low amp switches.....headlights of every/any kind will be lots brighter since they draw full battery/gen/alt power instead of what is left over after a high resistance trip thru the harness, dash, ignition, switches and out to the lights. Prolly under $100 total from oriellies/etc and that includes the hi temp silipuddy headlight connections for the hotter halogen sealed beams, etc. Luck. I forgot to mention, those still stuck with 6 volt cars will need to, naturally, purchase and use 6 volt relays. Bosh and others make relays in 6 volts/30+ amps. {You can try a 12 volt relay but function in a 6 volt system may be hit or miss as the power down function of the 12v relays is often 6 volts or so! (i.e. a 12 v relay might work okay at 9 or 10 volts but at 6 its powered off)} Final bits....if you purchase 5 pin relays, I believe it is Terminal 87A that is NOT used. As for polarity, shouldn't matter.

On my old 64 and 65 C10s I converted to halogen headlights. Simply drew power direct from the battery to the lights via a 30 amp self resetting breaker with a 30 amp relay wired in, one for high and one for low. The headlight and dimmer switch were then only seeing the amps necessary to activate the relays. In testing the performance, the factory wiring allowed 10.5 of the available 14ish volts to get to the original sealed beams....since everything was routed thru the dash and switches. Once the load was controlled by switches and routed more directly to the lights, volts at the light socket of the new halogens were 14 to 14.5, full power. Both the sealed beams and halogens were significatnly brighter when all the losses were countered by removing the swiches from the main feed. A similar set up would increase performance of original 6v bulbs or the 6v haongens. In addition, its less load on the single ammeter fuze of the 30s cars so those that see the headlights always burning out the ammeters fuze would likely have no more trouble in that area.

Started in ernest last Monday. After inventorying all the spare panels from the doner car, pricing out all the bits to stage the budget of body, paint, suspension, power, etc. Full time worker on the project and here we are, ready for the first infusion of cash into this long awaited project...... Near fully stripped, commencing completion of the accident damage, in primer soon. From there we hit the suspension. After that, discussion of remaining budget and the potential for V8 Power......last is paint and upholstery.......as the budget holds out! Here is Ol Bessy as a bare naked lady....

I still didn't get no pictures today!

Email of 22 July 2015 "Pops, Your and Mr. Walkers 23 year old joke is wearing on me. I am daily balancing my new found exuberance for Ol Bessy against the knowledge that I can't be nagging Mr. Walker twice each day for a status update! I also realize that you are fully engaged each day making sure my Mother is and remains anywhere from mildly irritated to crazy angry with your behavior. But..... If I don't soon get a photo of the car out of the corner and on the floor my head will explode."

Thats pretty much SOP on the internets boards/forums. Don't matter if ya do a search or are just asking how to do one or even when ya don't understand what ya did find, etc If yer new on a board, yer prolly gonna get lectured by the board Curmudgeon (s). Its part of being new I think. Only place I didn't ever feel welcome with my Car was over on the AACA and there it was outright "go away we dont' talk about modified cars"....so, left that hotbed of fanatical-better-than-factory-making-up-new-historical records-as-they-go-group-of- grouches..... and.....I'm here and quite happy.....even as a newguy.

Correct. That location is ported vacuum for use on the dizzy vacuum advance. You will not see vacuum there at or under about 700ish rpm. This is normal as you don't want the vacuum advance kicking in prior to the motor beginning to spin up. Use the ported vacuum for vacuum advance and the manifold vacuum (under throttle plate or on the manifold or adapter itself) for such items as wipers, power brakes, PCV, etc.

The weber you mention, single barrel.....is possibly the very common and very reliable 34 ICH/ICT (W/WO choke). Its a very small engine carb. It'll probably adapt to your flat head and run wonderful, at low speed. Its very likely to be too small for pulling and higher RPM. Usually these 34s are used in pairs on inline six engines of 200 to 300 cu in. The Weber is the best carb in the world. Once tuned, it will run so well that you will think you have fuel injection. A better choice will likely be the progressive 32/36 with either manual or electric choke. A bit harder to tune the transition phase but very doable. I use one on my 65 C10 250 inline six. Wonderful carb. Starts like fuel injection, pulls like crazy, idles smooth as silk and once tuned and jetted to the motors needs throughout the rpm range, forget about it for about 100K miles. Any of the webers will need a fuel regulator if your mechanical pump delivers more than about 3.5 to 4 psi at the carb inlet. All webers need to make use of the large style fuel filters (think coke can size) since they have numerous jets in side.......the jets are what make it so wonderfully tuneable to so many engines. Your source for information is Stovebolt Engine Company......Tom Langdon has both HEI for the MOPAR flat heads and can help you select a Weber and adapt it to your engine. But, if you don't know your way around a carb and have never tuned an engine via jet changing, you need to find a foreign car shop, preferably with a chassis dyno or at least a Air/Fuel ratio reading capability to tune in the 32/36. 99% of compaints with webers and the weber progressive two barrels are arm chair experts that Holler what they know on the boards but ain't never really read a carb manual or even the detailed instructions on tuning and jetting a weber! Typically the complaints with the 32/36 progressive are hesitation on hard acceleration coming off the primary and into the secondary. Folks seem to forget you have to tune in 4 areas, start/idle, running, transition, Wide open throttle. These tyros of the boards usually can't tell you the four phases and as such, usually only recommend tuning idle and WOT......that's only half the job with any carbie.

Because I'm 99.9% sure it is in fact the top of the carb and the choke plate shaft! I thought the same thing!

9 July 2015 Email to Dad and Mr. Walker.... Mr. Walker, I've made some decisions, one's I hope will help the process. BUDGET: Its growing somewhat. Sold a Safari Rifle. Working on a craigslist ad for the Wife, grandkids and four dogs that should net some additional funds if I can get them ALL to bathe before taking photos. Kick the budget to an estimated $18000 to $19000 with, I believe, up to $13000 available this month. POWER PACK: Looks we need to try to make this a V8. Dad recently told me a story. Way back, early 60s.......engine was still a flat six, 30 over, 60 off head, offy 2bbl intake, twin Carter B&Bs and split manifold dual exhaust.....he drove the car from Hagerstown MD to Fort Knox, KY. Stuffed a small block Chevy V8 in the trunk, tied down the deck lid and drove it back to Hagerstown. - Pull the Ford 200/C4 and plan for a V8/Auto Overdrive. - Used low mileage 5.7L hemi's with trans and ECU/Harness unknown appear to be in the $4000 range. ECU, Harness, tins and peripherals can drive up to another couple thousand if not included. - Setting Hemi Fever aside, make the decision points time and budget. At the time your Craftsmen are prepared to "Set" the power pack if our joint efforts have not procured a Hemi with Auto OD, move forward with a GM Small Block and Auto OD. There is significant nostalgic precedent for GM driveline and I'm very pleased to have either between the rails. - Gearing in the differential as suited to an Auto OD trans. We'll not be drag racing. Old men driving around town looking for cokes and hotdogs and occasionally on the highways to get to a deer stand. STEERING: No brainer, with a hot rod engine go's power rack and pinion. When you get to the steering column, wondering if it'll be possible to fit the original Dodge steering wheel to the new shaft? WIPERS: Electric to replace the original vacuum. UPHOLSTERY: Continue to leave it off the table/out of the budget for the time being. And because the kid in me can't resist asking....... - "Dad, Mr. Walker, it's been two days. Is the car done yet?"

Sold safari rifle. Budget just went up....a bit closer to that 8

Looks we need to try to make this a V8. Dad called, he's on his way to the shop now. Told me a story. Way back, early 60s.......engine was still a flat six, 30 over, 60 off head, offy 2bbl intake, twin Carter B&Bs and split manifold dual exhaust.....he drove the car from Hagerstown MD to Fort Knox, KY. Stuffed a small block Chevy V8 in the trunk, tied down the deck lid and drove it back to Hagerstown. Seems, he always wanted it to be an 8.

Its decision time. Mr. Walker just called. Been waitin on this call for 2 months and 23 years! Emptying the junk out of Ol Bessie today. Tomorrow or Thursday its being pulled to the shop floor and the resurection commences. We agreed to start on the underside and work up and out. So, on deck is: 1. Total modern suspension and rear axle + Power brakes and the possibility of rack and pinion (and depending on the power pack, possibly power rack and pinion) 2. All accident damage repaired and then primer and possibly paint. 3. Engine/trans choices are limitless and include the current 200 L6 with C4, GM 350 or Vortec with 4L60E and depending on budget, one of the millions of 5.7L Mopar Hemi engines with automatic overdrive trans! Meso excited!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Good deal to make a plan and start in on it. Way too many good cars get torn down in a rush to make them fit a dream and 18 months later wind up being a pile of parts on craigslist. Having a plan for soup to nuts go's a long way toward ensuring your car is done well and right and as a Father/Son project, that's just killer!

????? You lost me. Thought OP didn't know where to begin as indicated in the first line of his/her original post. Normal for you probably ain't for others.