Paul Beard

07 300 53 B4b

The older fellow at my local napa told me the valve in the old MC is a one way valve to keep the fluid from flowing back into the MC. This was needed because the MC is below the wheel cylinders. I have no residual valves just proportioning valve. I will add residual valves when I am able to find a MC that fits between the cross member and the steering gear box not before do not want to drill extra holes only 1/2 inch forward of orig. mounting holes for steering gear box. My brakes are working fine and with the proportioning valve adjusted just right the rear brakes lock just before the front as per inst. that came with prop. valve.

I put front disc on my pickup and used the stock MC. My understanding is that valve is to keep the fluid from flowing back into the MC not hold pressure. Everything I read said that without that valve in the MC the fluid would back up in to the MC and you would have to pump the brakes to stop everytime you tried to stop. I am using my original MC with a proportioning valve only and will continue until I find a dual Mc that will fit between the Steering box and rear cross member.

Is it possible to post a picture. With a photo maybe someone would be able to help.

In Pa. the cost was $55.00 in 11/79 for permanent registration. Not suer if the cost is still $55.00. Thats $50.00 for ant. reg. $5.00 to retitle. When Pa. went to state insp. once each year instead of the old twice per year the state did away with annual insp. on ant. I think someone in Harrisburg finnaly got smart enough to figure that something 25 yrs. old would be self insp. for safe brakes and lighting. I don't know how anybody with a 6 volt elec. sys would ever pass state insp here in Pa. proper headlight insp. is to measure the candle power output of head lights. I checked mine when I first got my truck and with the motor at almost full rpms thr meter showed about one half of the candle power needed to pass insp legaly.

Its. up to 535.100 as of 6:10 pm est

Dave the biggest problem you will have is the linkage that goes from the motor to run the wipers. My experience has been that the electric wiper motor has shorter rod from the motor to the wiper arm attachment under the dash. I would check and see if your current pieces will fit with the second motor pictured. My exp. is that the first motor pic. needs shorter linkage.

Have you checked for a bleeder valve near the thermostat. I had a 2000 Bonneville that I was told most newer cars all have to have the air bled out of cooling system or they would not put out any heat.

What is the gearing of the early "50s" Mopar rears in the cars. I know the trucks have A 4:10 are the cars the same.

I would be happy to travel a reasonable distance. I am also going to try and make it to Macungie next year.

Most car haulers would not be able to haul that truck unless they wanted to put it on the top rear deck and then drop that deck down for clearance. The flat bed is probably to wide to fit inside the frame of the portable parking lot. Would have to be hauled on a flatbed or on a rollback.

Philadelphia Pa. area

Advance does carry step bore wheel cylinders for the trucks so they would possibly have them for cars. as Tim posted go to www.advanceauto.com and shop online for year make and model.

Truck would not start this morning. Checked fuel pump ( at least 30 yrs. old ) replaced fuel pump. Truck still cranks but no fire. Checked carb. no fuel getting to carb. I guess I need to rebuild or replace carb. Where are to carb. #'s stamped on carb.

Which County in NC. There are 5 counties with aconcord NC.

The inboard pad has a clip that goes from top center to bottom. The clip holds the pad to the piston. Outboard pad sets in the caliper and the banjo bolts screw in and hold everything together. If all else fails find a Motors Manuel or other repair book that shows how to mount disc brakes. Disc are eiser to replace than drum brakes.

I believe all MoPars had tapered axles and bolts to mount tires until somwhere in the mid sixties.

I passed a nice 53 half ton on a trailer today. The driver was pulling it with a black silverado with a cap. Pilothouse was blue with no corner windows short bed and two tail lights that had the dodge script on them. The driver was from Pa. Truck had tags on it but could not see a state (had a amer. flag on the left side). Was heading north on I81 above Wilkes Barre turned off before Scranton. Does anybody now of a Pilothouse owner living in the Wilkes Barre area or maybe near Lake Pond area (Race track).

If you are running XP and it starts fine try and go to help and support and try restore back to last good date. I have had to do this on occasion because of junk that comes from site without you knowing.

Which Farmington Pa. is holding the WPC meet. There are 5 in 5 different Counties.

Does anyone know the size (dia.) and thickness of the plate that the sending unit is mounted in for the gas tank. I have a 12volt sending unit that I would like to put in my tank but would like to get new plate and unit ready before pulling old one out.

I am in need of a speedometer for my b4b. Mine sorta bit the dust. Does anyone have one for sale.

I have one in my "53" pickup (converted to m12 volt) . You have to use your old bracket for mounting and need the long arms to move the wipers. I forget weather they come from the elec. or Vaccuum Motors.

I ibstalled my langdon dist. and timed my engine using a vaccuum guage. Don't want to remove the front end and radiator to clean and paint timing marks. The big question after previous timing mishap. Engine backfired thru exhaust valve on #6 cyl. Engine still runs fine at idle and mild accererattion. The problem is after I shift into fourth the valves start to make chattering noise and truck does not pick much speed. Could there be possiblity of the dist. drive have jumped 1 tooth or maybe the timing gears and chain could possibly be the problem.

I have been driving my B4B whenever possible ever since I have owned the truck. The only times I have not been able to drive was when I had it apart or was in the process of repairing parts.