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Jocko_51_B3B

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Everything posted by Jocko_51_B3B

  1. Jocko_51_B3B
    I came across these two short tutorials on how a mechanical voltage regulator functions in detail. Apparently there are two basic types depending on how the generator field winding is wired, type A and type B. Other than that, the two types are identical. I'm guessing Pilothouse Dodge trucks use something closer to type A. They explain how the three parts of a voltage regulator control charging the battery, how it prevents the battery from draining back to ground through the generator when generator voltage is low or zero, and how it prevents overcurrent and over overvoltage conditions from happening. Just good stuff to know. Type A Type B
  2. Jocko_51_B3B
    I finished the new lines last night. No more loop at the bottom of the return line and both lines now going to the correct places in the block! Thanks Merle.
  3. Jocko_51_B3B
    Don, I'm pretty sure your diagram pertains to a different style of filter housing from what I have in my '51 B3B truck. My filter housing looks different and is marked "Outlet" where the oil line enters the housing from the side near the top edge as my photo shows. Your diagram must pertain to your 1948 D-24.
  4. Jocko_51_B3B
    I have a bypass type filter housing just like Merle described on page two of this thread. Fortunately for me, Merle pointed out the "Outlet" marking at the top of his housing which I also have and hadn't noticed until yesterday. That made me take a second look at the oil lines going to the housing. It looks like I hooked mine up backwards. The line from the main oil gallery in the block goes to the "Outlet" of the filter housing which is obviously wrong. Not too big a deal. I'll remake the lines today or tomorrow. I had no idea how much confusion swirls around these filters. Now I wonder if I bought the correct filter? Can someone verify? Here's my top cover and the filter I bought (I think it's correct, just not positive):
  5. Jocko_51_B3B
    Well, I thought I was organized, but I slipped up a little bit this time. I checked around on my parts shelf and there was the oil tube clamp. The idea of using a socket to expand the bottom of the tube also worked. Thanks much to all who responded.
  6. Jocko_51_B3B
    I didn't know my upper clamp was missing. Very valuable. Thanks a bunch everyone!
  7. Jocko_51_B3B
    My oil filler tube isn't tightly seated in the block and I'm concerned it will fall out or leak or both. I'm thinking about using Aircraft sealant to seal it and hopefully make it stay in place, but that seems shaky. Has anyone else dealt with this? Is there a way to expand the bottom of the tube a little bit so it won't be so loose?
  8. Jocko_51_B3B
    I found what I needed. DCM has thermostat housings with the bent tube, but they haven't yet listed it on the DCM website. According to DCM the housing is an exact copy of the original. It seems to me the angle of the tube should bend over a little bit more to put it perfectly in line with the radiator inlet, but if that's how they were made, then that's how they were made. The angle was sufficient to be able to install a straight solid hose without kinking the hose.
  9. Jocko_51_B3B
    f_armer, Thanks for the picture. Your photo helped me see that there's a difference between B1B / B2B VIN tags and the later B3B / B4B tags. The early tags only list Net HP. The later tags include Net and Gross. Thanks again.
  10. Jocko_51_B3B
    Unfortunately, my '51 B3B was missing the VIN plate on the A pillar of the driver door so I need to order a reproduction tag. I want to make sure the correct data gets embossed onto the tag. Other than the serial number, can someone verify that these numbers are correct for the B3B? Model: B-3-B-108 Gross Vehicle Weight: 4850 lbs Certified Net Horse Power: 86 @ 3600 RPM Certified Gross Horse Power: 97 @ 3600 RPM Here's another interesting historical fact I've noticed from VIN plate examples I've seen online; it looks like the B1B and B2B plates leave out Gross Horse Power and only include Net HP. But the later B3B and B4B model VIN plates included both ratings. This is only "important" to someone in my situation who needs to replace the correct style of VIN tag.
  11. Jocko_51_B3B
    Ken, I'm talking about the internal bypass only. It looks to me like the internal bypass system bypasses a small amount of coolant constantly unlike the external bypass system which has a thermostat that ideally transitions back and forth between full radiator flow and full bypass flow. So, as far as I can tell, the internal bypass does bypass constantly, not could bypass. I know it's a fine point. I only brought this up because I believe it's good to understand how things are working. It's also interesting to investigate these matters to get a handle on what the engineers were intending to achieve. If I'm not understanding the internal bypass correctly, please clarify. Thanks, Jocko.
  12. Jocko_51_B3B
    Merle, Thanks, that makes sense. But "could pass" or "does pass"? Anyway, the internal bypass simplified things and saved money on parts so I guess that's why it was adopted. I'm sure, during the initial testing phase, the Chrysler engineers back in 1949-50 measured the temperature carefully to see what effect the new system would cause. Be fun to know what temperature difference, if any, they measured. It's not really important now, just a fun fact to know.
  13. Jocko_51_B3B
    If I understand the bypass systems correctly, the '48 - '50 model thermostats were designed to stop bypassing completely when the coolant is up to full operating temperature. But for the '51- '53 models I can't figured out how (or if) the bypass ever shuts off. I don't see a mechanism for shutting the bypass off. So, for internal bypass systems, does some amount of coolant bypass continuously? If it does, do those engines tend to run a little hotter than the earlier external bypass systems? I'm just curious.
  14. Jocko_51_B3B
    When the engine is cold the bypass is open which prevents water from flowing up into the radiator. This allows the engine to warm up more quickly. When the coolant gets to about 160 deg F, the bypass starts to close and the thermostat begins to allow flow to the radiator. Greg g was right when he said that running without a thermostat will cause the engine to run hotter because an open bypass means less coolant flow to the radiator and more coolant flow circulating around uncooled inside the block. This old Chrysler Master Tech video gives a nice clear explanation of the flathead 6 cooling system and talks about all these things. These old videos are a great resource. There's a bunch of them on YouTube.
  15. Jocko_51_B3B
    This isn't my truck (mine is dark green), but it shows a thermostat housing with a bend in the tube. I think a housing like the one in the photo might be available in stamped steel like the one Merle posted a few comments back. I don't remember where I got this photo, but the restorer did a nice job I think.
  16. Jocko_51_B3B
    Merle, You got it! I posted the photo of the housing WITH the bypass just to show how well it would fit on my '51 (if only it didn't have the bypass port). Maybe I could have been clearer in my explanation. Thanks to you and Plymouthy for your responses. Much appreciated!
  17. Jocko_51_B3B
    My '51 doesn't use a bypass hose. I don't have a problem with eBay. I've used them quite a few times. What I meant by saying my searches came back empty is that they came back without a solution that I trust would work correctly.
  18. Jocko_51_B3B
    I've seen the new castings on ebay and they look good except for one thing. Those castings don't have a 45 degree bend in the outlet so that a stock hose can be installed. I contacted the seller and asked for a photo with the new casting and hose actually installed on a vehicle so I can see how well it all fits together. Probably never get an answer, but it doesn't hurt to ask.
  19. Jocko_51_B3B
    Solving unusual little problems with my '51 B3B is a saga for the ages. The latest has to do with the thermostat housing. On one hand, the correct housing for the '48 - '50 trucks has all the proper dimensions to fit my '51 properly, except it has a water bypass tube which is incorrect for my '51 (which has the internal bypass). On the other hand, I bought a brand new housing (the one on the right) that was supposed to be the answer, but it isn't for two reasons: Reason Number One: The new one doesn't point at the radiator and it causes a solid hose to kink badly. I've tried. Reason Number Two: Even worse, the outlet on the new housing is 1/8 inch wider than it should be. It does not match the radiator inlet. Both should have a 1.75 inch outside diameter. I've searched the internet for a part that looks like it will fit correctly but I have come up empty. So, unless someone on the forum has discovered the perfect solution, I'm going to have to fabricate a housing from scratch that actually fits properly including a tube that points in the right direction. I just wonder where all the original housings have gone. I've never even seen one.
  20. Jocko_51_B3B
    Is this the Corvette valve? If so, can one of you "Corvette valve guys" post a picture of how you have it installed in your truck? Since it won't screw into the head, I would guess it has to be rigidly mounted somewhere for the cable to work right.
  21. Jocko_51_B3B
    Jeff, It's good to hear I'm not alone in thinking about the heater valve leakage. Thanks for letting us know that a little leakage has had no noticeable effect in the summertime. Glenn
  22. Jocko_51_B3B
    The consensus seems to be that it's OK, but not necessary, to have some slight flow through the heater even in the summer. It's going to be interesting to see how much heat my heater will put out even with the valve closed thanks to the slits at the bottom of the valve stem combined with a less than perfect valve seat surface. If I decide I want the option of shutting off flow to the heater completely I can always add an in-line shut off valve in the hose. I saw one for sale on VPW's site in the cooling section. I have a somewhat related question; does anyone know of a source for a diagram that clearly shows the flow of coolant through a flathead six and how the flow gets switched when the thermostat opens and closes? I'm a little confused by the holes in the back of the water pump. All I know for sure is that the pump pushes the coolant out through the oblong hole into the water distribution tube and down through the water jackets. I guess I'm not understanding how the coolant circulates when the thermostat is closed and the radiator is being bypassed.
  23. Jocko_51_B3B
    Displacing oxygen would explain the slits. That's something to consider before draining the heater.
  24. Jocko_51_B3B
    Jeff, I've been thinking of adding a manual shut off too. I haven't yet gone through the heater to make it operational, but once the heater is up and running I can't see a reason to have any coolant circulating through it in the summer. Even during the winter months I will probably rarely drive the truck being in Illinois - not because it isn't cold here - but because I don't want to expose the truck to road salt. When I finally get time to go over the heater I'd like to see if there's an easy way to drain it. Why have coolant in it at all except for the very rare occasions when it might be used in cold weather? Glenn (aka Jocko)
  25. Jocko_51_B3B
    Thanks to all who posted responses about these valves. My repro parts book shows some (not too good) pictures of valves on pages 1-5, 1-6, and 1-7. The one on 1-7 (the Y-valve) is the only one in the book that looks to me like it is cable-controlled from inside the cab. It IS completely different from the one I have. But it's good to hear that the valve I recently bought (for way too much money) is installed in other period Mopars. These trucks do have their share of idiosyncrasies. ggdad1951, Thanks for looking up the post from 2011. It does shed light on the valve situation. For me, the one question that remains is about the tubular valve stem used in my valve. It has those two slits at its bottom end (see my original post) where it normally seats. Those slits look like a deliberate design feature to cause a small amount of leakage past the seat. Why that would be good, I'm not sure. Anyway, mine won't have problems bypassing (if that is good) because I'm pretty certain the corrosion in the seat will let some coolant leak past too. I'll get some heat in July whether I need it or not!
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