jgreg53
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Everything posted by jgreg53
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box. Are those numbers you listed all carters?
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I have a Carter bb. Have rebuilt it twice. In order to get the vacuum set right by the vacuum gauge, I have to turn the idle mixture screw almost all the way in. Also, my idle adjustment screw is not even touching the stop. So I can't change the idle speed I also put new bushings in the throttle shaft.
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I would like to see a list of carbs that would work on my 48.
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Mike's carburetor has a replacement carb for the Carter bb. Their model number is M228. Has anyone tried it? There is a YouTube video on it.
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has anyone ever tried turning the drives haft around?
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I couldn't get the kit from Bern auto to fit either. I had to trim down those end buttons also. So I ended up with vibration. I tried balancing the shaft with the hose clamp method and improved it some. I thought a new housing might help.
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I've got it down to .004
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So I got her back together and the u joint is noisy.
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I'm thinking about warming the boot with either hot water or a hair dryer make it more pliable.
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This is a new boot
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What about stretching the boot? Can't seem to attach both ends.
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I bought the u joint kit for my 48 Plymouth from AB. The cross pin came out easily. I had a local shop press the new one in. Tried to put it all back together and the pin was swollen. Rollers and balls would not fit. Should the pin or the hole been heated?
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Today I took the steering box out and added a shim behind the shorter race.it really helped but the car is still on jacks. Changing the lower u joint.
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When I put mine together, the bottom race is recessed into the case added a shim the same size as the bottom race to take up the gap. What I'm thinking of doing is to add a shim to the other end to take up the slack. Also the rollers races and bushings are all new
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has anyone here tried adding a shim in the box on the other side of the box where the steering rod enters in order to take up slack? I was think about a round shim between the upper cone and the stop for the inside of the housing.
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Your idea about marking the shaft to find the high side looks interesting.
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I jacked it up on the frame and used jack stands.
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I changed shocks front and rear on my 1948 p15. Now I have some vibration in the drive shaft. Could the new shocks throw off the pinion angle enough to cause this?
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The tires are coker. Pressure is good. Tread is very good. All the same size all around. I swapped front tires side to side and that helped then I swapped passenger side front to back. That helped more. My reason for trying this was to help a hard pull to the right. The pull would change depending on where I was driving on the crown of the road.
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I'm discovering that if I change my tires front to back and side to side in makes a difference in the way the car handles. I'm guessing it has to do with having gone from bias ply to radials. Anyone else notice changes after making the swap?
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I had one of cotter pins break. The castle nut backed off and the tire wheel and drum almost fell off.
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I did go from bias to radials. Steering was fine til then
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I've become very familiar with the front suspension of my car. All tires are coker. Tire pressure is correct.
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my p15 pulls right considerably. I can drive down the middle of the road on top of the crown of the road and the car goes straight. Is there any way to compensate for this, or is my front end just worn out?
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Success! Worked on the dizzy and got the points to stay in place.starts right up now. Running better with points. Thanks for all the advice.
