jgreg53
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Everything posted by jgreg53
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Quest For The Ultimate Flathead 6 Spark Plug?
jgreg53 replied to Powerhouse's topic in P15-D24 Forum
I worked for honeywell for 13 years. At that time honeywell owned autolite spark plugs. We made around a million spark plugs per week. We wete always led to believe thete is little difference between brands, and that all that's needed is one good spark. It's all about whose advertising you believe. Also, the gimmick plugs are just that, a gimmick, ie splitfire, which is made by autolite. Also 50% 0f our production went to ford assembly line as motorcraft. -
If the 2 small screws holding the flap are on top, then the flap is right. Looking down at the flap i see the 2 small silver screws. The heads of the screws, anyway.
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I checked the throttle plate. It seems to close fine. Can it be installed upside down?
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I will check that out. Thanks DJ
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I'm not familiar with that.
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My 48 p15 has the b and b carb. I've rebuilt it twice. The last time was with the help of mikes carbs and his video. Why do I have to run the mixture screw down to just before bottoming out to get the idle to smooth out? Is this a characteristic of this carb?
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thanks all
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Hard to tell. The whole tranny is wet on the bottom.
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Where would the original 3speed most likely be leaking? I have to add a little gear lube periodocaly.
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Canada hey?
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You're on the wrong side of the car.
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How did it do in the snow?
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I drive my 48 p15 sedan quite a bit. I drove it 2 days ago on the 27th. Thank goodness the heater works. It's been really cold here in kansas.
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I made a shim from a gasket I had laying around. It was .020 thick. Maybe it will suffice for now as long as it doesn't leak.
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I found brass shimstock at napa. It's quite pricey.
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I've been searching for shims for the steering box. When I took the box apart the shims were more or less in pieces. I had looked for rolled shim stock so I could cut out my own, but the three retail auto parts stores in my area don't carry any. I found a company on amazon called Sparex. They have some for a few shims applications but not for Plymouth. Any Ideas?
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I can't get the seal from AB to start. it's really hard laying under the car.
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So I managed to get the old seal out pretty easy. I used a steering wheel puller that came with to rods with hooks on the end that I could put inside the seal to grab the inside. When trying to get the new seal in I discovered it is .040 bigger on the OD than the old one. Is this normal? when talking about a press fit .040 is huge. I ordered the seal from AB. Needless to say I jacked that one up trying to get it in. Ordered another one from ebay. Haven't tried it as of this posting. Any pointers?
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while changing the seal I see that the large nut was loose with a cotter pin through it. Why would someone do this and what happens when I torque it down properly?
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I found the problem. The cup had rolled under the seat. When you get a certain age you tend to forget how things go back together if it's been apart for a while. I should take pics when disassembling
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well, here goes. I rebuilt the steering box with a kit from AB. It came with bearings, cups, and brass bushings. got it all back together and it fixed the play in the steering, but the steering is tight. Will it loosen up a bit over time as the new bearings get worn in? Also My horn was working fine but now it doesn't work. my steering wheel is the deluxe model with the single button in the middle. I keep thinking there is a piece missing under the horn button. Any Ideas?
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I purchased a new tank from Tanks Inc. Looks nothing like original but the price was right and it works.
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can't tell from the pics how thick the gasket is from amazon
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So I made a gasket from a piece of weather stripping. seems to help. Gonna keep looking for the correct gasket.
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I'm not finding one in my sources. Should be able to make something. I believe air getting in the carb around the clamp would be screwing with the air fuel mixture.
