jgreg53
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Everything posted by jgreg53
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Right now I'm watching to see if it goes down as I put some miles on it.
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Filled the tank and the gage went to one quarter tank. Took it out and worked on the calibration. I also ran new wiring from the gage to the tank. It's reading full now when I know the tank is full.
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After taking the NOS gauge apart and applying liberal amounts of contact cleaner, it works. I don't know how accurate it's going to be. I need to fill the tank and see what happens. It's showing a little more than half tank. I think I have a little more than that in the tank. Might need calibration adjusted. Loop
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The inner workings of the gauge appear to be rusty. Thinking contact cleaner.
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The blue and the brown both hook to the ignition switch post. I shouldn't have to start the motor to make the connection. Right?
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I finally got the NOS fuel gage. Hooked it up. I have 6 volts going to the ignition connection. The elements are not heating. Does it need to be grounded some way?
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I found and bought an original fuel gauge from amsobsolete. NOS. 70 dollars. Waiting for it to be shipped.
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I have an aftermarket fuel gauge. It's supposed to be universal. I also have a 6 to 12 volt converter. I hook the converter up to the battery and it shows 12 volts. When i get the fuel gauge hooked up and then try to attach the ground wire to the battery, the ground lead starts heating up to the point that the insulation starts to fry. What am I doing wrong? Do I need to hook the converter up at the switch?
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I repaired some of the wires, replaced some used heat wrap to cover the connections.
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I took the gauge completely apart hooked it up. I saw how it worked. As the bimetal strips heat up they bend and touches the gauge pointer and moves it. The straps heated and bent but missed the pointer as if the blades weren't long enough.
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Well that carb was a bust. I'm going to go back to the guy and try another one. This one won't idle the accelerator jet was plugged up. Fixed that. The hole for the fuel line was stripped. Fixed that. Used propane to find a vacuum leak . Found none. Could the float level cause the stalling when I stop?
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I found a guy who has a gold mine of used post war chrysler plymouth and dodge parts . I bought a Carter b and b from him. I got it mounted on the engine. I had to combine the two carbs to get the linkage to work. It ran a lot better. Pulling up to a traffic stop the engine dies. It started right back up. I thought I may have some trash left in the carb although I took it apart and cleaned it up and blew out the passages. So I took it apart again blowing the thing out again. Any suggestions?
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I've read the ohms of an aftermarket gauge needs to be 10 to 70 ohms. Still waiting for recommendations. I just don't know which one to buy.
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There are modern gauges with 3 wires. 2 from the sender and 1 to switch
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I actually don't have a problem with an aftermarket gauge under the dash. I'll leave the one in the dash for looks.
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Stever. Someone on here had quoted 10 to 70 ohms. I haven't seen a gauge with exactly those numbers. A lot of the aftermarket gauges don't state the numbers
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Too much.
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Fried. Shorted out. Any ideas about an aftermarket gauge?
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Can anyone suggest an aftermarket fuel gauge? My p15 is still positive ground 6 volt. Thanks.
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Well, I put the gauge in the dash. Hooked up the wires. Turned the switch and it started smoking. Turned off the switch. Investigated, found a bare wire grounded to the metal dash. It fried the heating elements. So much for that. Would a 6 volt gauge for a tractor work?
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Magic
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The reason all this started. I had taken the gauge out the first time because the reading was erratic. In my fumbling to put it back in I broke the wire off the capacitor. I had been trying to solder it back on. I probably ruined it in my attempts if it wasn't bad already. The inner workings of the gauge are kind of a mystery to me. The heating elements somehow cause the needle to move.
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I may have stumbled on to something. I hooked the gauge up without the red doohickey. The needle moved. It stopped at a quarter tank but at least it moved. The guts inside the thing are so delicate. Any movement can change the the reading.
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It is very delicate. Like a Swiss watch
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I should check that out. I had one of those springs break on the rear. It actually happened when I ran over a buckled place in the road.
