Jump to content

Seaside Pete

Members
  • Posts

    155
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Seaside Pete

  1. Thanks. I look forward to the pic's of the install. Pete
  2. Thanks Bob Pete
  3. Hi again Sorry I have only just noticed the link that steveplym posted is the tank that I am refering to. So bobd you only need to click on that link to see if that is the tank you used. Thanks again Pete
  4. Got a reply from Tanksinc but, I am a bit worried as they sent me a link to what they say is the only tank that they have for a 47 Plymouth and it looks totally different and says it's for a 37-39 Plymouth and it's heavy polythene with the filler on the wrong side. After checking on their site there is another tank they do list which is for a 47 which looks more like the tank on bobd1976's car, so bobd I would appreciate if you don't mind looking on their site and type in "1947 Plymouth" and confirm that this is the tank that you used. The other thing they said is the sender is not voltage sensitive but the OHMS of the gauge should be 73 -10, can anybody confirm that for me? Thanks in advance Pete
  5. Is that for use as a blanking plug but, one that enables you to put a knob on so it looks better?
  6. Hi Andy, I see where you are coming from but, the damage is quite bad plus I think the sender unit would be damaged as well. Whilst I know the repair route would be cheaper I think I would be happier with a new tank. Hi Bobd. Thanks for that info. Makes me feel a bit happier knowing that you have fitted one, so I have just emailed Tanksinc to get a total cost. Pete
  7. Thanks guys for the response. Funny enough the tank I was looking at is the same but, on ebay No 221363238582 (i'm not sure how to post a link on here to the item No). It is $397.88 but includes everything Straps, sender unit, new hose, clips, body grommet and cap etc. Phil I asked the seller the same question about lining up with the hole in the floor of my P15 as it looks to be quite off center in the picture, and the reply was "MY BOSS SAYS IT SHOULD BE OK" which is not a very positive answer. As I am in the UK, I would have to pay in addition to the price $139.85 shipping and approx $95 import tax/duty. So I am a bit worried about ordering it and after receiving it it's wrong. Has anybody used one of these tanks on a P15? Am I right in thinking that the live feed goes from the gauge to the sender and then back? Thanks Pete
  8. Hi First I would like to wish everybody a happy new year. I know this subject has been talked about before but, I need to fit a new tank to my p15 as it looks like someone has tried to jack the car up on the tank or maybe it's been backed up over a post or something. Anyway there is a large dent covering half the tank. I hope someone can help. My questions are: is the sender unit voltage sensitive or only the gauge. The car has been changed to 12v neg earth but the gauge is not working. can anyone give me a diagram how to wire it up as when looking at the schematic in the manual it looks like one wire goes to the starter button and I am not sure why. Also where do I wire the resistor. So can I buy a tank with a 12v sender and still use a 6v gauge. Sorry for so many questions. Pete
  9. Sounds great. Looking forward to seeing it. What Carbs are you suggesting? and will you ship to the UK? Pete
  10. Wow! what a great car and restoration. Well done.
  11. Sorry what is the Unity website. (I am a newby after all)
  12. I managed to pick up a spotlight that I want to fit on the driver's side pillar. Has anybody fitted one before and could post up some close up pics of where it actually fits? I have searched but can't find any, and I don't want to start drilling in the wrong place and then find that the internal controls are in the wrong place. Thanks in advance. Pete
  13. Just to clarify. Yes I meant 1 1/2 (1.5) times the width/DIA of the thread. Pete
  14. Thanks for that very precise answer Robin & PA. The reason I asked is I was wondering what sort of chroming bill I might be getting but, seems like it's going to be a bit cheaper than I thought most of it being just a polishing bill. Thanks Pete
  15. The hub centres are more critical on front wheel drive cars as the offset (ET) is usually quite positive and you may get vibrations (which is often the case when not hub centric) where as rear wheel drive cars the offset is usually a lot less and in some cases especially on wider wheels is often a negative offset, and it is rare to get the same vibration problems. I am not saying that it doesn't matter, I am just saying that it is not as critical. As far as the bolt length is concerned, the rule of thumb is that the wheel bolt (or nut for that matter) should screw in 1 1/2 times the diameter of the thread MINIMUM (I would prefer a bit more). I was the MD of a wheel importer and wholesale distributor, and in the wheel business for 37 years. Pete
  16. Can anybody tell me on my 47 P15, what of the exterior trim is stainless and what is chrome? I know the handles and hood ornament is not stainless, I am referring to the strips. I have used a magnet and although i'm sure the grill assembly is stainless but what about the rest, the magnet is only just sticking so am not sure if it's stianless, just the chrome or maybe it's brass underneath?
  17. I am using the UP 5007R heavy duty unit as per Thomba48's 1st google link.Easy to fit works great quite heavy metal unit which also has hazard light switch. I have however added 2 small buzzers as the indicator lights are a bit small and as per most switches they are not self cancelling. Pete
  18. Great Video. Thanks. Pete
  19. Hi MM Welcome to the Forum, Nice Car. I am in Kent, Broadstairs, Where are you? Pete.
  20. Hi Robin Good luck with the Rhythm Riot this weekend. I was supposed to go with friends but had to cancel, although they are still going. However I am able to go to Rye on Sunday so If I see you there I will introduce myself. Pete
  21. Thanks Guys Pete
  22. AH This comment has raised an issue that I have. My 47 has been changed to 12V neg Earth. Whilst upgrading the wiring and adding fuses I noticed that when the Amp meter is loaded ie switch the lights on etc the meter moves towards + and when I start the Car it moves back towards the - which is surely wrong. Can you just swap the wires around, or would that cause some other problems?thanks Pete
  23. Thanks for the info. As I don't have a key to turn it to the right position I suppose I will take it to a locksmith. Whilst looking at the new lock I noticed that you had to turn the key about 1/5th of a turn to make the pin fully depress. Thanks again for the comments Pete
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use