adam_knox

I do believe its written vertically along the side of the carb. If you have the original Carter carb in there its: E7L4 for the six cylinder E7J4 for the eight cylinder If its a different carb I haven't got a clue! Good luck. BTW, are you rebuilding it yourself? They really aren't that bad to do. I put a little gasket filler on each side of the gaskets to make sure there weren't any leaks, and so far no leaks! Also, be careful with your anti-stall coil, thin wire can break easy!

Hey gang! Was really excited this morning, got to have the car photographed with a whole bunch of other cars for Reminisce magazine! Normally they feature old photos, but this was the fourth time they have "reconstructed" a scene for the magazine. They even had a 51 DeSoto and a 54 Plymouth! Got to sit in both of them, BEAUTIFUL cars. The DeSoto even had the original interior safely protected from wear and tear by clear vinyl seat covers. It's going to be in the Aug/Sep issue. Here's some photo's Molly took: http://www.flickr.com/photos/39496385@N02/sets/72157619721948317/

All good advice, although careful when that engine is warmed up! I just did my exhaust manifold and it was half inch turns for that nut. I do believe I used the small socket size with and extender. A pain, but did work. Should be able to use something in a normal open/socket wrench set, but the grinding and bending idea sounds brilliant!

If you find out let me know. I had a semi-used one from Carquest that didn't have a replacement for the second plunger and the one from Andy Bernbaum didn't have it either. So hopefully that NAPA one will do the trick, just know the Carquest and Andy B's lack the extra plunger replacement.

Here's how my seat covering went. Fabric was $70. My mum sewed with a basic sewing machine and hand stitched. Back seat was phenomenal, front seat still need to tie down. We sewed ties to the fabric to keep it taunt, but the front seat was a tad more complicated as there isn't a way to hide the ties. Before: After: Before: After: Here's the ties that can be seen from the back:

Almost back on the road. After replacing the exhaust gasket 3 times, found out there's a gap in the welding on the the exhaust pipe itself. Need to drive to the place to get it fixed, but either my fan wheel is making a squeak or my water pump. Looked for the lubrication point on the wheel, can't seem to find it. Manual says its there, but my eyes say it ain't. (I think I need glasses!) My thought is that I might have air in the radiator lines, as when fluid emptied out when I took the manifold off I just topped off by filling up the radiator. Do I need to do something different or will the air just work itself out? I flushed the radiator last spring, so I'm not worried about blockage. Would just sort of like to make sure I'm not going to burn out my water pump...

My biggest irk with ebay is the end time. Sniping is annoying because sometimes you have to schedual a day around an auction. I'd rather a sealed bid approach, you have six days to send in a sealed bid. At the end of six days the highest sealed bid gets the item and the auction is listed as ended with the final sale price. Not the best for ebay inc., but for the buyer would make our lives a heckuva lot easier!

Might want to take a peek in the stock room of your local parts store. Just last week I had a bent brass fitting for the carb. No one had it listed in books or on the computer but the guys at Advanced Autoparts let me sort through their part drawers in back and found it. I was looking quite a bit and did manage to screw together a hodgepodge of fittings to get the desired connection angles as well. Good luck!

I'm going for a record number of posts today! Finished installing one leaf, about to move onto the next one, and while I was reading about lubrication, found this dandy sentence: "The rubber cored bushings must not be lubricated or allowed to come in contact with grease or oil." Guess who used some multipurpose grease in the rubber bushings. Me. Anyone know why they mention this? I had some slight rust on the bolts, and I brillantly thought, "Hey, the grease will help the rubber from tearing and prevent water from sitting in there.":o So was this statement because old oils were bad for rubber, or do I need to spend the rest of my evening taking the darn thing apart and doing it again? Please tell me I can take the easy way out!

Well, looks like heading into the second week of June and still have yet to take the car for a spin even around the block. Putting on the new leaf springs (which didn't look like they were neccesary) and noticed my differential is wet. Guessing its leaking. So my question is can I just change the fluid and forget about it for awhile? In August I'm planing/hoping to do a road trip with the car to the coast, so assuming it doesn't leave a puddle under the car am I okay? Or is it when I'm driving I'm creating a really cool oil slick like a James Bond auto accessory? Any tips from you guys would be appreciated. I just really want to drive my car, and am annoyed I still have a manifold leak I gotta solve again, let alone the differential and any other normal stuff that pops up (or out!) during driving season...

I'm still drooling... Thankfully they don't have a 49 convertible in there, otherwise I might be suffering some buyers remorse! Man, half of 'em don't even have a reserve! Lemme go check last night's lotto numbers....

Replacing the leaf springs on the car this afternoon. Got the drivers side off. Laid it next to the new replacement...The original one has more of a bend to it than the new one! The manual also neglects to inform the mechanic that the supports for the rear bumper need to be removed in order to install the new spring. Which for most mechanics is an exciting discovery since they can charge more for labor. However, use pro-bono mechanics don't like surprises like this, as I just had the freakin' things off last summer and were a pain to put on, let alone the fact its a two-man job... Be warned author of the 1949 Chrysler repair manual, I will hunt you down!! ...and then I'll probably pester you with questions.

Pulled out my receipts. Before I bought the car the PO had a rebuild done (2004) at Main Machine in CA. Painted, parts, boring and disassembly/reassembly $3517 Break down: Parts: $1K Labor:$2,430 Rest:Taxes Hope that helps!

Got it! Thanks guys!

Thanks guys! So double checking, the place I put the jack to lift is the center of the rear end, like so: W-------------nnn--------------W Key: w=Wheel N= the t-juction housing between the two rear wheels So the jack goes on the middle "n" to lift, then place stands under the frame by each wheel. Once its on jack stands I can use the jack in the same place to hold up the rear wheel axles as I swap out the leafs? Sorry for the poor art, shoulda had a camera ready!

Quick question, what's the best way to jack up the rear end? Previously did one side at a time, but that seems like a rather shaky way to do it. Plus I had the jack too far in and indented the frame. I read on eHow.com to raise by the transmission t-intersection between the back wheels (yeah, I know, that's not the technical term! Bear with me!). I'd rather get a second opinion from you guys! Replacing the rear leaf springs, shocks, and rear wheel cylinders today. Hoping to poke around and figure out what's up with my fuel guage kicking on and off too, but something tells me my plate is already full.

I don't know if these are good deals or not, and don't know if I should post them, just thought if anyone is looking these are a few i came across. 47 Dodge: http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/ctd/1159074406.html $2800 These were listed (no pics): 1941 Plymouth coupes. Enough to make one good car. $1100. 1941 Plymouth sedan delivery. Desireable. $1500 Call me Russell 262-679-2305 1939 Plymouth Sedan:http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/cto/1154575605.html $3850 There were others listed that were projects, but they were like 5k or more, and some daily drivers as well. Alright, I should turn off the computer and head back into the garage and work on my car...

I just installed one on Friday from Andy! Ha! Talk about timing! Yeah, it was a good fit...but The threading on the new bumper is different from your old one. And for some reason, Andy likes to ship only the part you need, not a nut to go with it! (Would it seriously bankrupt him to include a 7 cent nut with the darn thing?!) So you'll either need to check your junk drawer for a nut that will fit, or take 25 minutes out of your day and go to the hardware store to purchase a nut. It drives me nuts!

I don't know about east coast, but if you want a quick turnaround, there's a place called "Bumper Boyz" that stocks rechromed bumpers. Turn yours in, get a different set back. Know nothing of their quality, just that they exist and people pick up the bumpers and such at car shows! Another place to research this question is on the AACA forums. THeir board is presently under repair this weekend, but when it pops back on tomorrow do a quick search, lots of discussion on process and places. Good luck!

So I realized I'm going to need to put a couple coats of paint on the break backing plates. Figure while I'm at it I'll paint a few other things and make it a day project. Would I be doing any frame damage or making any common sense violations by putting jack stands under both the front L&R so I can at least prep the stuff and leave the wheels off four about five days?

Thanks! Forgot all about that wire cup!

Hey gang, thought this would be a quick job, but no, gotta make it hard for myself. Noticed some rust forming on the brake plate ?(where the shoes are mounted). Its got 30% rust starting, 60% clear metal, and 10%original black paint. Going to paint it real quick, but need to get all the grim off. Currently using brake cleaner (spray can) and a wire brush. Brake cleaner is semi-expensive, and proving not that effective and loosening up 60 yr old grim. Any quick tips for getting this stuff off easily or is my elbow grease the best degreaser? In the garage at the moment, so if anyone's got a tip let me know! Thanks!

Sent a pm!

Yeah McyD's is still running. Goes through phases of popularity. Some nights I'm shunned to park by 1/2 Price Books, other nights I luck out and get in the back lot. The front lot has "regulars." Made the mistake of taking my Plymouth there a few years ago. There were a lot of jokes made at my cars expense... Here's the list of "features" they do each week, although doesn't seem like it really is followed (Mopars always get the short end by being put in frigid April!). http://solidgoldmcdonalds.com/calendar.htm I'll hopefully be going on Wednesday starting next week, assuming I can muster up the motivation to go to the garage! Message me if you end up going, I'll try to be there when you are. I did did most of everything that "needed" to be be done, but I'm gonna have to wait on the bearings and such as they're good at the moment and I need enough dough to do the top this summer. Unfortunately my printer ran out of ink and I can no longer print money!

Going to be doing my front shocks in about an hour. Any tricks or things to watch out for? I sure as heck won't be beating your Olympic record of 35 minutes. My "quick" projects usually take 2 hours. Mostly because I set done the wrench right next to me, and then spend the next half hour trying to figure out where I put my wrench!