Jump to content

MBF

Members
  • Posts

    1,861
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    5

Everything posted by MBF

  1. GB-I'd be careful with that so that you don't get so much of a bend in it that the drag link starts to flex on a bump, or that it turns further in one direction than the other. If the pitman arm isn't singularly indexed on the output shaft of the steering box, you can probably obtain the same results by moving the pitman arm a tooth or 2 in the correct direction. I bought a used drag link from Merle a year or so ago to replace one that had been bent and felt like it was flexing during a left hand turn. The ends in the old link were tight, but the one I got from Merle made a huge difference. Mike
  2. There's a large 4wd truck w a front and wing plow not to far from here (similar to the pic that Kuster posted). Looks like a real workhorse-a really tired workhorse, but she's a Dodge so she aint dead yet!
  3. I'm not sure if this is a recommended practice or not, but when I originally had the rear drums off my '36 Plymouth I put neverseize on the axle shaft before reassembly. I had to remove one last year to replace a whl cyl, and the puller removed it a lot more easily than the first time. Mike
  4. Soak it good w a penetrating oil-there is probably a lot of goo as and rust on the splines. Give it some taps around the splined area to help the oil get where it needs to go. Once they start moving you've got it made. Mike
  5. Looking at the running boards makes me believe that this may have been a 3/4 ton rack body converted to a pickup (remove the rack body, and install a box). I'd look it over very carefully and realistically before you hand over any money. A quick paint job can hide a lot of sins. Just my 2 cents. Mike
  6. How much free play do you have at the top of the pedal? You may be adjusted all the way out. Ideally you shouldn't have more than 1-1/5" free play when the pedal is all the way out.
  7. Dutch-that looks like a good place to break in to! What months did you say you weren't there?
  8. I've got a 3:55 in my '78 half ton Dodge. She's starting to wind up pretty good at 65, but will cruise at 60 pretty comfortably. Not sure what the revs are, but its a slant 6 w a 1:1 3rd gear 3spd. Just my 2 cents.
  9. GB-that's understandable. I can roll under my 1 ton on a creeper with her sitting on level ground and check fluids, change oil, do lube jobs etc. You can't do the same with a 1/2 ton-no ground clearance. Glad it worked out well for you. Sometimes its the simple things that get ya-been there and done that! Its expecially embarrassing when you're wife points it out to you-at least you saw this on your own. Mike
  10. Maybe a sign painter? I cleaned mine up and let the brass centers as they were-nice patina. Mike
  11. One of my ideas for next years show is valet parking for PH's! If that doesn't fly we can always leave them in the parking lot and wait for someone old enough that knows what a foot starter and hand choke is to come along and move them to the show field! Took her to a cruise in Monday night-heading to another one this Friday. I've put almost 1000 miles on her this year so far and haven't been anyplace! Mike
  12. GB-is there an oil slinger on the input shaft? Could the input shaft cover gasket be leaking? How about those holes in the top for the shift rods (leaking between the front of the tanny and b/h? Mine piddles too but out of the rear-needs a new seal which I finally got the p/n for. I have a 4 speed in my garage that I was going to put into my truck, but it doesn't fit the bellhousing I bought SO she's staying a 3 spd. I'll look at that and see if there are any other places she could leak from. I plan on going through the 3 spd this winter cuz she's going to Macungie next year under her own power. I refuse to let your truck have the honor of being the only PH on the show field! They'll look good sitting next to each other! Mike
  13. There was a post on this in Vintage Truck magazine a couple of years ago. In net, I believe the suggestion was that if the crankcase was clean, and a PCV system installed using hi detergent oil- and can (excuse the pun) the bypass filter. The additional expense of the filter replacement according to the writer would be more than offset with the use of a PCV system and good oil. I did see an oil pump for a flathead six that had a spin on cartridge mounted to the outer housing. That in effect made for a fully filtered system but I've never seen another since the one I saw on ebay a few years ago. Mike
  14. Here's what I did w mine. Sprayed the white, and used a striping brush for the read and the black. A local motorcycle builder is offering a spray on chrome that can't be told from the real thing. Its a 2 stage paint that allows them to "chrome" and it doesn't have to be metalic since its a painted on process rather than a plating process.
  15. Can't speak to which pedal to use, but the ball type stud was used up through the late 70's Dodge pickups before they went to a fire mounted pedal. Mike
  16. I don't have a pic, but I used an existing tapped and plugged vacuum port on the manifold and t'd if off the wiper vacuum source. Mike
  17. Mine had a thick rubber grommet that fit the opening in the floor. I was able to soften it up with some armor-all and get it back in place after painting the tank and floor. Mike
  18. I run a Carter BBD on m 78 1/2 ton w a /6. There are several different versions of these carbs-one designed for a V8, the one with the smaller throat designed for the /6, and the new versions with all of the polution controls. If you're buying a used one, make sure it is the smaller throated version, and check the throttle shaft for wear. These carbs are notorious for needing to be rebushed due to vac leaks at the throttle shaft-even rebuilt ones sold by NAPA or Advanced Auto. I'll try to find a link to the online service manual for these-it makes all the difference when setting up the carb after rebuild. I may convert my 52 to one of these if I can find the adapter that someone mentioned. Mike
  19. The PCV air filters on 80's GM products were a fiberglass mesh inside the air cleaner house, but outside of the filter element. I'm confident the one that I'm using from an 80's Dodge slant 6 is adequate. I want to make up some type of a cold air kit for my 52 1 ton to give it a shot at some ambient air, and get rid of the oil bath air cleaner and replace that with a paper type filter. When I get that done, I'll tap into the filter for an air source. Mike
  20. Charles-I have a working unit with the linkages and switch. PM me if you're interested. Mike
  21. Can't help you with the p/n, but I did replace the pinion seal on my 1 ton. Remove the driveshaft clean around and the yoke on the differential before you take the nut off and remove the yoke.. From here, if you rub carefully on the steel part of the seal you may be able to come up w a p/n that NAPA or someone else can cross reference. I used a "bent" seal puller to remove the old one-and really destroyed it on the way out. To in stall the new one I had a piece of pipe almost the same as the outer diameter of the seal. I tapped it into place w the pipe and a socket. You may need an impact wrench to get the nut off the yoke, or you may be able to get it w a breaker bar. Good luck. Mike
  22. That's what I did-made a big difference in the color of the oil between oil changes. Also cleaned up some of the sludging. I found a road draft tube that was on a parts truck. The tube was cut off and had a welded on nipple. I put a piece of hose over it, plugged in a PCV valve, and ran a hose up to the vac port under the carb. Using a sintered filter on my oil fill cap as the air inlet. Mike
  23. This was awhile ago, but I remember rolling down the window, removing the door panel on the inside of the door, and then taking off 2 spring loaded round clips that allowed the glass and track to removed through the window opening after it was separated from the regulator. Mike
  24. GB-mine sings at about 38mph and then stops as you accellerate. There should be rubber bushings in the motor and cab mounts. Maybe they're collapsed. For the door handles do you have the springs behing the escutheons to hold pressure on them? How are your u joints? I haven't done a lot of sound deadening on mine because all that is gonna do is enable me to hear something I haven't heard before so that I can wonder what that noise is. Think of it that she's just whispering to you-when she's got something serious to say she'll raise her voice and shout it out. Mike
  25. I saw this truck when Stan bought it before it was painted. It still had the red paint on it with the green interior. It is a very solid low mileage vehicle. The larger one that he had came from Kingston, NY and I saw that one in its original condition too. Starting with a good solid truck low mileage firetruck is going to effect the price. Stan is getting older , and I imagine he would consider serious cash offers. Mike
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use