falconvan

Lots of scammers out there; I had one try to pass a phony money order on me for a part I sold. I just called the bank branch printed on the money order and gave then the ID # and they were able to pull it up. The ID # was legit. However, It was supposed to be for $300 and they showed it was issued for $3. I guess the guy used a computer to copy it and change the amount. Always, always call and verify money orders and cashiers checks and tell the buyer no product until the issuing bank verifies it.

Thanks, Bob; I hope to have it on the road by Christmas. My grandson keeps asking when we can go for a ride. I dont know who's more anxious; him or me.

This is really cool; did he make his own flanges where it mounts to the block? I'd love to take a crack at doing this but with two carbs.

Sounds cool; do you have some pictures of it on here somewhere?

Thanks, all. As far as the patch, I used my MIG on a #2 setting. The seat came from a late 60's Chevy II. It had all the springs redone and been recovered at some point so it feels really good; just need to reupholster to match the interior when I decide on material/color. I'm leaning toward a traditional hot rod diamond tuck red and white scheme.

Got some time in on this one the last few days. I did the last bit of patching on the drivers door along with cutting out the braces so I can work on the one piece windows. I also picked up this for a front seat. I need to make some stands but it's in way better shape that the original. The frame on the original is so rusted Im afraid it would disintegrate if I had it blasted. Kyle is working on wrapping up the deck lid; it's been a ton of work to get it right but it's getting closer.

Got most of the dash back together, a little more wiring done, got the old tires cut off of four wheels and getting ready to clean up and paint, and engine gaskets came in today. Here's my grand kids as anxious for a ride as I am. My granddaughter is just like her mama; always has to be in the drivers seat!

Wow, that was a great deal!

Thanks, guys. Lots of good input.

Could one of you guys run through a brief description of how to adjust the front and rear brake shoes? I have a service manual and it says you need a special tool to get it right. Is there another way?

Thanks, Neil. I'm going to do that.

If the 4.0 is only 4" longer, just use a front mounted electric fan on the radiator and eliminate the stock fan. That should give you enough room.

Just pulled mine; not sure how long they were on there but I had to use a puller and then heat the hub with a torch to get them off. I had a thought; why couldn't you cut the rivets that hold the drum to the hub, thread the hub, and then use a short hex bolt instead? Then you could pull the drum and get to the brakes without having to pull the hub. Thoughts?

Cass, that's not too bad to fix; I rebuilt that whole area on my 48. Maybe when this one is on the road I'll come down and we'll tackle yours. I'm sure I could knock it out in a day. You're buying lunch!

That's a long rod you got there, Mo.

A few more.......

Here's what I came up with for the fuel gauge;this is from the Buick. I'm going to use the Buick tank so it's already got the right sending unit and the wiring is right for it. Plus it's free. I opened up the engine and it looks like someone rebuilt this thing not too long ago. Zero sludge in the pan, you can still see hone marks on the cylinders, and all the bearings look new. I'm just going to get a gasket kit and stick it back together as is. I finished rebuilding the back brakes and got the rest of the brake lines ran. I was going through the spare parts in the trunk and decided I really don't like these taillights so I'm going to do something else. Not sure what yet but I think it looks much better without them.

Thanks, Cass. Brake lines should be good: I put them back in the factory location. Shocks fit great, thanks for the tip!

Here's what I have for wiring; a friend of mine was scrapping a early 80's Buick G-body wagon so I just took everything front to back. I laid the whole thing out and started cutting out all the extras and labeling everything. After a few hours I had it trimmed down to a fairly simple harness that'll cover everything I need. I went ahead and mounted the fusebox; i"ll start putting the rear harness in tomorrow.

Thanks, Greg. I'll see what I can whip up for it. I had one side of the fender wells rusted through so I did a little patching and then painted the whole thing with POR-15

Great job, Fred! You probably just saved a heap of $$$ by getting it to turn.

Over the last few times in the garage I've got the master cylinder installed, all the front wheel cylinders replaced, new shocks installed, and all new brake lines plumbed in the front. It looks like this is going to work; I'm hoping there's no interference with the shift rods but we'll see once the drive train is ready to go back in. Still need to do the rear but that's coming up later. I got the broken seat slider fixed and the front seat back in, plus got the engine up on a stand so I can take a look at the inside. I've got a few days off so I'm going to try and tackle the wiring some cleanup and repair on the inner fender wells in the front clip, and maybe get the oil pan pulled from the motor so I can get a look at the bottom end.

Looks great, Larry! I like your truck, too.

Got it, thanks! Ordered a pair online last night.

Those look good, Cass! What shock part# did you end up going with?