doctor dirt

I'm in southwest Florida at the equater line so we have hot temps for 5 months in the 90's then the temps ease up some to 70-80s. My car stays between 160-170 for the most part and I'm using 10W/30 non syn Pennzoil. My gauges are new and I think trustworthy. I do change oil and filter every 3,500 miles if I'm going on distance rides frequently, probably 2,800--3k. 20W/50 I think would work well in the summer here also. Doc.

Rear main has been replaced and the floor is dry! I'll be riding the car out to a "coffee & car" spot on Weds and that should add about 100 miles on it so hopefully everything will remain dry. The linkage is abit out of sorts with reverse preferring to be nuetral ha! Second gear would like to join reverse in nuetral also. I'll straight that out on Tuesday morning. The real test will be more miles and time but right now it looks good. So gasket 4164 Best..............is holding back the puddles. Doc.

Congrates very nice ride! I got lucky also with a 51 Plymouth P22 with the R10 and Offy dual carbs. That R10 makes all the difference in the world to me. For me tires & brakes must be right before anything else is worked on, just my 2 cents. Doc.

Thats exactly what happened here (bought it that way) . This time everything gets removed and a new one & "ears" and all will be inplace. I was told to add very small touches of silicone to the corners and ofcourse wipe the rubber with oil. Just hoping this is the ticket I hate to have to do a tear down to remedy poor machining. We'll see soon. I'll let everyone know how the seal works. Doc

Thursday I'm replacing the rear main with a Best gasket 4164 steel rubber seal. I know rear main leaks are prevalent in these older cars and I've had rope seals up the butt for 40 years and I'm sick of not finding anyone to do the work. I have found a garage that works on muscle MoPar and owners dad is close to my age and says he can do it but he prefers the rubber/steel seal. Funny enough the car has one in it right now but it was installed improperly. The car had some drops dropping when I first got it but after a few days in a row of 80+ miles the floods broke out! A few drops I can handle but a half a quart every 4 days is to much. Just hoping I don't have poor engine machining as the culprit! I know its an old topic but lets see how this seal does, theres a few members I already contacted who have an interest. ps; this car is a blast to drive, the overdrive is a huge plus. I got the carbs dialed in pretty well although the rpm's sneak up at idle. Doc.

Great job everywhere, the stainless on the doors looks very sharp. Continued success. Doc.

I always thought "Plymouthy Adams" was the plymouth doctor! You can call him right here every day just about!

87 oct. in my 218 1951 Plymouth P22 and no problems with it. Insurance this time around I went back to Grundy (go back and forth with Grundy & Hagerity) and pay 182.00 per year for 100/300 and a replacement value of 15,000. I think all the companies are very fair these days. Doc

No work to get to anymore but my 51 Plymouth P22 business coupe is my everyday ride. I must admit the R10 Overdrive makes these old drive trains alot more fun to use. No sense in having them if their not used! Doc

Welcome to the forum, nice old car with tons of potential. I saw it on ebay with a Windsor business coupe that was pretty appealing too. Your manual is your savior and the forum will be your guide. I would drain all fluids to make sure their fresh and topped off correctly. Your fluid drive tap is under the passenger floorboard near the tranny hump. Thats your filler and it will turn up as you turn the key to spin her. ISO 32 most readily found at Home Depot, or Tractor Supply is the closest fluid to the original product used. (app. 7.5 quarts) I bought a D29 a few years back with Fluid Drive I was taught the ins & outs right here (they hate it Fluid Drive here but to bad) hahahaha!!! Just drove through Wellington last year after not being in that area for 15 years or so WOW did little rt.40 change. What used to be a two lane black top is now an 8 lane cruise through! Good luck and some black wall radials will help that road worthy feeling. Doc

Fluid drive oil can be bought at Home Depot "ISO 32", ISO 22 is closest to the original oil but I couldn't find it in anything less than a 55 gal drum, that might be a tad to much! Tractor supply down my way didn't have it but I do agree most will stock it or can get it! Napa might have it again mine didn't stock it anymore. I used about 7.5 qts to fill my 49' Dodge D29 if I remember correctly. Doc.

Andy B. should have them and there are Raybesto's kits floating around ebay most times. I did a set on my 49 D29 about 16 months ago. Pain in the butt it had to happen. The car drove beautifly afterwards. Add some radial tires and the car improves dramaticly. Doc Hey Cen52 , I'll trade you a Steering Wheel for a Frank Pepe's Pizza

I just found a period correct canister mixed in with a huge parts crate I got with the purchase of my 51 coupe. i will be taken pics starting tonite of the smaller items like wiper arms & blades, light bezels & lens (front & rear) oil canister with filters. If you can wait to see the pic I'll be fine with an offer for it and the back up filters. The tranny and rear pumpkin pics will be this week, right now SW Fla. is getting really wet! Doc

Wow thats a good looker to start with. Nice ride.

Car would be ok but I doubt I could make it hahahaha......Florida north to south is a loooong ride! If your ever down yonder give me a shout. Doc.

Soth12........ I'm in S.W. Fla. on the coast in North Port, a southern community of Sarasota.

yes yes yes it is!!!! late late late tooooo Car got in last night about 9pm naturally in the dark with a black car with an old blind man, great! This morning the car is looking just as it was advertized, very nice clean car top & bottom. The engine bay is beautifull and the plumbing for the carbs and headers are very cool and work really nicely. Great sound from the duals. The retro interior is Dodge I think from one of the truck in the late 90's not positive. Ok I will make another thrtead in the "parts" area. This trunk was FILLED with parts such as a Tranny, Rear end pumpkin with gears, clutch plates, 6 pair of air shocks very clean. Head lamp bezels (8), rubber for windows and door jams all new! Lens (rear) starters (used) etc etc........ I will photo them and with some help from the boys here ID them with accuracy instead of me guessing. I think theres some helpfull things here and some "boat anchor" too! Theres a folder filled with NOS gaskets a box filled with wipers and blades. I'll get to listing and photographing on Monday. Fellows I'm not looking to become "parts king" or prince! If anyone needs this gear they pay for the shipping and packaging and I'll charge .50 a pound! HA!!!! The car runs out strong and so far so good, thanks boys!! Doc.

Car or motorcycle old or new the brakes and the tires have to be in order! Bias ply is fine for in town crusins' or short shopping trips but if your going "over the road" these days radials make the ride smoother and safer. I bought 4 from Diamondhead for a 1,000.00 for 4in WW, that won't happen again. I could get the same Hancook with a base whire wall or in a blck tire for more the half that cost. It was ok the first time. I have a 51 P22 being deliverd in a few hours that has Coker radials 3.5 WW on it and their fresh. Black walls will be next, I like a good looking car but the prices on red lines and WW is to high just for cosmetics. get the radials, get the front end aligned and let em' roll. don't forget your brakes too. Doc

Lived in Hamden for a while originally from New Haven, I miss the apizza palors, Sally's and Pepe's would have to be open 24/7 down here the pizza stinks. Theres a level mark inside the bath and I was using marvel mystery oil because I had an old can. Good luck riding and get a slice for me. I miss those great restraunts up there. Doc.

"Big Daddy" of the business coupes, cars scream's "MOVE"! good luck, have fun!! Doc.

...........thanks, The mods are period correct hot rod and the seats and console are an easy swap out. My 49 Dodge D29 was 100% stock so a little cheating with this was is ok by me! I hope to have it on Thursday. Doc

Thanks db, and yes 51Cam it was there then it was gone........I mean mine! I emailed the owner with about 20 questions and he got back to me in about 5 minutes and I hit the buy it now! I think I got a pretty good deal....................... ..................unless the pics were 20 yrs old we'll see in about 4 days Ray.

Heres some shots from the seller in Calif. nice guy who was very pleasant to work with. The dual offy set up and headers are my favorite and the BW R10 handle is too!! I tried to find both a while back for my 49 Dodge with no luck. I'm a happy MoPar Man again! enjoy, and a "always thank you" to all the boys at P15--D24 forums. Doc. 1951 Plymouth Concord P22 (business coupe)

What a great project and interesting read, just catching up around here and your efforts and talent is something to be proud of. Don't know you John but I'm proud of you...........great car with a terrific look! Color combos right to the Hemi are outstanding. Best of luck with the car and enjoy the hell out of it! Doc.

Not sure about your year but my 49' had a relay set up to the right of the radiator looking into the engine compartment. Those take some abuse because of the location so double check the connections there. Your horn line will run down the column then back up to the fire wall. There are replacements if the relay happens to be bad. Nice car, plenty of potential not a bad idea to get into the plug holes and check compression once you get your battery and battery cables rigged up. The heavy duty cables are a must for 6V cars. Take your time and cover all your mechanics before any cosmetics. Theres alot of stuff out here for these cars and this site has a retail section and theres alot of help there. Bernbaum is a great source for some parts they helped me with a coupler set up and other odds & ends. Good luck Doc.