wayfarer

If you need to maintain any 6-volt sensative equipment then install 2-6volt batteries in series and then run a dedicated circuit to the item from one of the batts. This has been a common fix since the 12v system started. .

Redrilling the crank is possible, and depending on the application, 4-bolts may be acceptable. I have several 4-bolt flywheels in 'the pile' so Chrysler thought it was ok at some time. If you redrill you should only need to have 6total, same as late model stuff. Since the engine is out the best method for redrilling will be to use a high quality mag drill so you can keep the drill bit aligned. If drilling by hand you will surely get holes that are less than round and probably on some bastard angle. Gary

Welcome. Wow! what a wealth of knowledge on this board. You did not mention your plans for the car, mostly stock? or is this hot-rod material? The flat six has a loyal following and there are plenty of hot-rod parts available in one form or another. I'm sure if you ask you can get some pics from the guys, you might also dig around the archives for some visual inspiration. As with the engine, you also have options for transmissions, manual as well as AOD. I can help with Mopar trans swaps if you need, and Mr Coatney has a t-5 in his rig. .

A couple of pics of the 904 TF attached: stock 12v and mini starters both fit well. Not sure about a 'single' best way to provide shifting capabilities due to the numerous stock applications. It would seem that if you have a column shift of some sort to start with then building some bell cranks to make it happen should not be difficult. Plenty of donor parts of this sort at the u-pull-it yards. The biggest linkage issue is the part throttle kick-down (throttle pressure governor). It is a must have item, but again donor parts should work nicely. I have been contemplating adding these parts to inventory as a separate package but have not yet had the needed time. Anyone need a project? The additional concerns is, of course, the 12 volts needed for the starter. Either use 2-6v batts or 1-12v with a voltage drop to the rest of the car. If anyone has detailed questions just send a PM. Gary

We have an adapter for the Mopar 904 and A-500 Torqueflite. Although the adapter is a 'bolt-in' operation, keep in mind all of the additional changes that are required around the installation. Send a note or call if you have questions. 888-Hemi-Parts.

Volare clips might be getting scarce but do not overlook the other 80's units like the 5th Avenue and similar. These are very good donors for clip swaps and for heavier rigs the Fury-Cordoba is a great unit. .

...everyone else must be sleeping...there was some discussion on this awhile back, seems that there is a particular bellhousing required for that adapter but now I'm not sure. Does the mfgr not indicate what specific starting point you must have? IIRC, this is a plate that attaches to the bellhousing and then mounts the t-5, so the flywheel, pressure plate and throw-out bearing should all be stock units. The clutch disc will, of course, need to match the trans. .

Check out Devcon Metal Welder II. Two-part methacrylate adhesive for structural bonding of metal alloys...so says the advertisement... www.devcon.com 800-933-8266 with regards to the welder...flux core leaves splatter, gas shielding is alot cleaner. Gas shielding is useless if the wind is blowing. .

Alot depends on how bad the 'crud' is. Any petroleum distillate will clean parts, but the thicker the crud the more volatile the cleaner needs to be. If you do this somewhat regularly then consider getting some real soak type material. Check with your local Zep representative. .

Can't recall the brand name right now, but there is a commercial/industrial compressor company that uses a small Ford v-8. Normal cylinder head on one bank, custom head on the other side, custom intake and it makes more air than most shops dream of using.

Most of the Marine parts will be useless in a car. The block may be a 354 but it is likely that the front is drilled for the 51-54 331 front cover pattern. If it is reverse rotation the the cam gets replaced. The gear assembly at the front gets oiled through the snout of the crank and you can plug the feed hole, however, the snout is machined very differently from the pass car version and pass car t-chain sets do not swap. If it was in salt water you may have nothing more than a very nice looking shop ornament. Yes, it is a Hemi, and yes you have some valuable components but it will not be a simple 'rebuild it and stuff it in' type of project. If you own it then disassemble, clean, inspect and catalogue every little piece so you can determine whether to use this as a starting point or to sell the neat parts and buy a pass car unit to start with.

Be cautious about removing all of the 'short' leaves at the perch. In addition to adding stiffness to the spring directly above, the short leaf keeps the amount of flex, in porportion to its length, to a minimum....when the axle tries to rotate it also tries to make the long unsupported leaf into an 'S'. An extreme example is GM and their 'mono-leaf' spring, they just made the leaf very thick at centre and tapered to the eyes to control the rate, wrap, et al. If you really need to soften the ride the best bet is a long discussion with a spring maker. The tapered shims you want will be available at the spring shop or at a decent truck alignment shop.

No doubt the guys over at Vintage Power Wagons are hoarding some, and be sure to ask on the forum at: www.powerwagonadvertiser.com You might also check with Ed Yost at Wildcat Auto Wrecking at www.wildcatmopars.com This is a pre-80 Mopar only yard. Cheers

Quit voting for incumbants...............!!

The front mounts are similar between the flathead-6 and the truck v-8, but, keep in mind that if you are planning to use an A or LA series engine then you have to use an A series water pump assembly. The earlier front mount/water pump assembly from a 315 or 325 Dodge for example, will not bolt to the A or LA block without a milling mchine on hand. What car are you working with ? If you choose to keep the inline and change to a newer trans send a PM, we have the adapter on the shelf for either the 904-A500 or the manual smallblock bellhousing. .

the posting has expired.................

What information, exactly, are you trying to determine? This will help us help you. .

Thats not a motorcycle...thats a death machine.

...and I thought $1.63.9 was getting good...... .

As an engineer, this is the information that I think should have been in the very first post, as well as your advertising. This is the info that potential customers will use to decide what kit to buy. Defend yourself with factual information and loose the hurt feelings crap. Design the best product you can and then stand behind the design rational. ....and yes, the sound of artillery, land or sea based, whistling over head, as well as the sound of an F-4 on 'final', and "close enough" works very well. .

No one has mentioned Dot-4, which is compatible with the old -3. It also has many of the -5 charasterics like high boiling point. .

Norm, sorry for the delay...unfortunately, the Hemi engine, regardless of which one, can get real expensive. The parts prices have gone up considerably since they got 'popular' about 10 years ago. I think that it has something to do with too many vendors all trying to make an increasingly larger margin. We recently finished a 241 for a customer and the final bill was right at $6k. Granted, this engine needed everything, but still, six big ones. I think that, with selective parts sourcing and alot of good karma, it might be possible to do one in the $4k range, but it all comes down the parts replacement list. I always tell prospective customers to have a long serious talk with their bank account. With all of that being said, there still is nothing else with the 'cool' factor of a Hemi engine when you open the hood. If anyone has questions just send a note and I'll try to help out. Gary

The streetrodder article may have some good info, but, it starts off by reversing the photos of the Hemi & Poly pistons...gotta wonder what else they screwed up. Quality Engineered Components is also a good source for parts and info as well as complete turnkey engines. We have been in the Hemi business since the early 80's. Call on my dime; 1-888-Hemi-Parts. .

It would help to have some photos or block ID numbers, but given the popularity of older Mopar engines it is probably worth $200, and if you have access to 241-270 Hemi engines, in any condition, consider buying them. Better investment than stocks....

The technology that was available in 74 is still viable and best of all, not encumbered by a bunch of computer crap that may or may not survive the next solar flare. In 74 Mopar had a very reliable ignition system and the carbs were still fairly clean. The remainder of the truck is equally stout by todays standards and although not a smooth ride it will get there and back.