Larry Leibhart
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Everything posted by Larry Leibhart
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Hubcap cleaned and taped off. Going to use the same hemi orange paint on the hubcaps. I started with only one acceptable cap off of 3 pickups. It took 7 caps (3 separate purchases from E-bay) for a grand total of $115 to get three more acceptable dishes. You just got to love E-bay, you never know for sure what you have purchased until it arrives on you door step.
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I also have purchased some other items from Robert's. His prices are usually slightly less. I would assume many of these items are identical and produced in the same place.
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You can now buy either the splice together windshield rubber T3 for $55 or the one piece type T347 for $70 from Roberts. There catalog is not great but considerably better than their website. I paid $166 at Steele Rubber. On would like to think for 2 1/2 times the money that the Steele Rubber would be better.
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Best to not tell your wife. I could not decide either after reading all the posts but finally went with Steele for the glass rubber. Even so the corner panel windows were difficult. Larry
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Robert's had a good day. I ordered a set today also, minus the window rubbers I ordered earlier from Steele Rubber.
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Recored Mopar Heater installed
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Thank you for the video. I learned some facts and enjoyed the comparisons.
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The gener-nator is an alternator rebuild inside the case of the generator. It would use the brackets already present also and visually look like a generator. I was wondering if anyone had ever used one and how effective they were. I assume the reason to use a 12 volt generator is because they would cost less. Larry
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My only experience would be older farm tractors. I have seen many of these still working but the vast majority have had the generator replaced with an alternator. I am not knowledgeable enough to debate the advantages or disadvantages. Why would you want to stay with the 12 volt generator? Thanks Don for the input. Larry
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Earlier in this thread JBNeal brought up using a gener-nator for a 12 volt conversion. Being my normal naïve self I had never heard of such a thing. On the internet I have found two sources, Powermaster PowerGen and Don's Starters & Alternators. Does anyone have any experience with these or any words of wisdom I need to know? Just considering it at this time, looks like plenty of money, around $400, but what else is new. Larry
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Here is a picture of my best knob along with what they looked like when trying to paint the letters. I used an oil base spray can appliance grade for the black. Then tried to paint the letters with a water base paint so I could remove the excess. I did learn that the knobs on the 1 and 2 series were made of a much higher quality material than the 3 series. Not looking for a job refurbishing knobs but would trade anybody 2 knobs that they needed for one good heater knob.
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Dodge Central of Michigan has the threaded pin for $8.50 part number B-508-48 fits the B series pickups.
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Some knob refurbishing
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Pictures of speedometer and gauges after redone by Kevin
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blackwalls
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Sometimes the heater controls are below the dash on the left side. Also the original optional radio which is vertical instead of horizontal is in the dash on the left side.
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Roberts Motor Parts hard copy catalog is considerably better than the web site. Make sure you ask for one if you ever order anything.
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I am also sorry to read about the fire. Even though I do not post very often I relish reading your posts. Your love and commitment to your truck, this hobby and this forum are unmatched. It may seem small but I hope for the very best for you.
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I am having trouble finding a source for the smaller diameter king pins used on the early B2B and B1Bs. All I can find are .873 in. diameter pins not the .795 in. pins. Can anyone help? Thanks Larry
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Jeez we have not had weather like this in a while
Larry Leibhart replied to DCurrent's topic in Off Topic (OT)
Central Nebraska We are suppose to have wind gusts tomorrow up to 60 mile/hour. -
52 Pilothouse door pillar data plate
Larry Leibhart replied to Jeff Balazs's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
Original Data Plate 1 11/16 in. wide by 5 13/16 in. long -
I would take the other side of the fence. I may not be knowledgeable enough to over my opinion but if I wanted a reengineered vehicle I would buy a newer model. I want to experience the nuances and flavor of the pilothouse era including the lower geared rear end and the flathead 6. If mine is ever finished I may regret my decisions later
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Sorry picture in wrong file format will try one more time. If no picture I guess I will know cannot use a gif picture
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1950 B2B on left, 1954 C1B on right The C series set lower to the ground.
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The 1953 B-4 Series was the last year for the B series.
