Bingster

Thanks guys. Actually, that makes the decision to keep it more definate. Fortunately, I'm back to work and things look a lot better when you're working. Yeah, the engine is my first priority, even for my own info.

Thanks folks. I've been on this board for years and always felt sorry for the guys that were forced to sell their cars. Now that I face this problem myself it's kind of weird. I've learned that fortunes come and go. Well, maybe not a fortune, but good times and bad times. I'm always afraid that I will sell it too soon.

Car is in/near Spencer, IA. Pictures unfortunately will have to wait till snow melt.

This is not a for-sale ad. This is a "what if I have to sell it" question. I'd like to know the market value of a 1947 Desoto Custom 4-door sedan in good condition, light rust (rockers need repair) some of it disassembled and some of it restored. The engine ran pretty well the last time I started it seven years ago. It turns over now but I haven't tried it with plugs installed. The interior floor bolt-on floor pans have been restored and painted. Ditto radiator dust panels. Seats are out. Dash in good condition but needs restoring. Starter checked, painted and installed. I have the brake parts to rebuild but haven't yet. I have collected all good to excellent add-on chrome parts such as tail light shells, set of four excellent hub caps, excellent factory hood ornament, etc. Bumpers not restored. I should have rebuilt the brakes and drove it when I got it. But as a newbie I couldn't resist trying to take it apart and restore. All went pretty well until time and money got in the way. It has been stored inside a garage for part of the time and in a Morton-type building the rest. I am trying desperately not to have to sell it, but if I do I want to know my options. I'm 67, and if it comes down to my house or the car, the choice is fairly academic. Thanks.

Hi. Nice Desoto! I have a '47 Custom sedan. I was a newbie when I got it seven years ago, and proceeded to tear it down. The sheet metal, floor pans, etc. Some things I marked and some I didn't. I have a lot of bolts that need identifying. I have copied a lot of Desoto photos of the guys on here to help me find bolt types and locations, etc. I did get all of the floor pans sandblasted, primed and painted. Some other parts as well. Mint set of hubs. NOS hood ornament, etc. I have a lot of the finishing touches. I know that if I had torn the engine down, or do it now, I'd probably never get over the work backlog. Luckily my engine was in good shape when I bought it and it still cranks and turns. I agree to get the engine running as best as possible while you fix the brakes. I can't do anything until the brakes are fixed. But the seats are out so I have nowhere to sit anyway. I don't know how long parts for these cars will be around. A friend of mine saw the car sitting in my building and said, "That's a money pit." I find it more of a time issue than money. There's a lot than can be done on little money while you wait for the bigger stuff. Anyway, enjoy the honeymoon period.

That's great! I'd been looking for this kind of a video. Thanks very much.

So if the valves are stuck open and fluid finds its way into the intake exhaust, then what happens as the engine is turned with no plugs, or even with plugs? Am I in danger of hydro locking? If any fluid gets down past the valves in general, will it dissipate with the heat from the engine? I don't know the mechanics of the machinery down there to get a picture in my mind of the situation.

TDC. Dead Center, right. How do yo tell when it is?

Will the Harbor Freight compresion tester be any good?

Thanks so much for the info. This is my first foray into the actual mechanics of the engine. All of the add-ons are completed: new coil, plugs, wires, starter rebuilt, etc. I had the piston/valve set-up differently in my head. I can now see how if two cylinders were working the others had to be, i.e., not frozen. This is going to be a learning curve for sure. I have to get a compression testor now.

Thanks for the info.

I bought a cheap battery just to bring my engine back to life. I used it one day before the weather stopped me for the duration. I was charging it periodically in the garage, but forgot about it one time and one of the cells leaked out some water. Is the battery shot? I know, I should have used a battery tender.

You're quite right!

I've written a couple of oral history books where people of a certain genre talk about their lives. A good case in point is the 80 year old Mopar service tech you met when you where 21. If someone could have sat him down and asked him to go through the rebuilding of certain parts and assemblies, they'd be preserved for eternity, well almost. It's kinda like the WWII vets that are interviewed on You Tube who were B-17 pilots or gunners or whatever. It seems to me that possibly somebody like Jay Leno or some of the other "Barn Find" jocks on You Tube might know of the whereabouts of some of these guys. If a 70+ year old guy had started working on old cars when he was 18, and grew up with them, he might still be alive and have at least more knowledge than most of us do. Besides, back then - even though they were technically "old cars", they weren't yet to the classic stage. My dad bought me a 1953 Chrysler New Yorker or some such big car from an old lady when I was 18 around 1973. At that time the car was only about eleven years old. I can tell you that these old guys love to be asked about their lives and their knowledge.

Will all that is going on in CA - and I was born and raised there but left twenty years ago - I am amazed that the same type people keep get elected to governor and other decision-making posotions. My brother was a high mucky-muck politician in CA government and I know what goes on behind the scenes. CA was such a beautiful state.

I had been pouring motor oil and Marvel oil down the cylinders of my flat head over time to prevent them from seizing, thinking that the oils would seep down around the pistons. On the first cranking with no plugs yesterday, cylinders five and six threw up oil like a fireworks show. The others were stuck. So much for that approach. I'm thinking the thinner viscosity 50/50 acetone and tranny fluid would have worked better over time. I was told that there is/was a vacuum kind of tool that fitted down into the cylinder and sucked out the excess oil before start-up. It makes sense to me. Would save a lot of engine compartment cleaning. Any ideas on this? Maybe I should re-phrase that. Anyone ever hear of this?

Getting to 90!

The mechanic that I bought my '47 Desoto from seven years ago came over today and he got the engine to the point of turning over without plugs. Numbers five and six cylinders worked but the others didn't, and he said the valves were probably stuck. We shot some more PB80 into the cylinders and are letting it set and try again later. Even though we didn't get it running at least the engine turned over. And I had done quite a bit of work on the engine accessories the past year getting it ready. Some wiring. The starter that was such a bitch to remove and replace worked. My cheap $59.99 Fleet Farm 6v battery worked. All in all I'm pretty jazzed. I just hope we can un-stick the valves. My friend works at a classic car museum as a buyer. They have a complete shop there where they restore the cars they bring in. He goes out and buys cars if they check out. I've been on this board for all of those seven years and I want to thank everybody for their patience in getting me this far. I haven't always been a model member but all families have their ups and downs. Will keep you posted.

That's great! So there is a reason for that hole.

You guys are very patient and kind. I realized when I went back and thought things out that the cap self-locks. Duh! Thanks.

Like a dummy, I thought that it made no difference on which side of the distributor cap on my '47 Desoto the snap-on metal clamps were located. When I went to put on the new one, I noticed a small hole under one of the cap snap-on indentations. Inside of the cap there is also a small built-up area of molded plastic that looks like it has some reason for existing. So, does the small hole go on the topside clamp or the bottom? Also, does it affect the timing if the metal clamps are not completely squared with the indentations on the cap?

Let me clarify that. Not the cost, the amount of oil.

Thanks much. I'm going with the MMO. How much?

I'm starting up the '47 De Soto Saturday. I've been pouring oil down through the plug holes over time to keep things hopefully lubricated for this day. Should I add more motor oil or Marvel Mystery Oil before start-up, and if so, which?

Thanks. I just bought an Attwood 6 gallon boat fuel tank with a built-in 1/4" fitting to attach the rubber gas line to. I feel much better about that.