aero3113

Very NICE!

I got my chain and sprockets as a set from Andy B.

Joe,the way I did it was with the crank gear installed on the crank I put the chain on it and then put the chain on the cam gear then bolted it to the cam shaft. It took me a little while to get it to be TDC but if you mark the chain and gear with a sharpie each time you try to line it up you will get it to matych up sooner or later. Don't forget the cam gear will only fit on one way. You may also have to rotate the cam a little bit to get TDC to line up.

I want to add that my crank was out of the engine when I did this.

When I put mine on I tapped it on with a block of wood. It did not slide on easy but it did go on smoothly with some tapping.

I left the tube out a little bit so when I put the water pump on it will be a tight fit against it and will draw it in. Yea, I think all the new gaskets have the bump since it is universal to both internal and external bypass.

Today I was able to Install and torque down the head, I used sealer on all of the bolts except for the 2 I am gonna use for the chain. I used the copper spray on both sides of the gasket because even on the paper side it still has a ring of metal that needs to be sealed. The "Bump" that sticks out isn't too bad and should be hidden when the water pump is installed.

I took it apart, painted it,lubed it up and installed new points and leads. It's not that bad of a job with it out of the car. If you go to page 2 of this thread you can see how bad my leads were. I found the leads on ebay and the points were extras that came with the car when I bought it.

Someone hacked into my wife's facebook account and made it seem like she was stranded in the UK and was asking her friends for money. They wrote almost the exact same thing as you posted.

Woodie,your engine looks great! I hope you changed your front motor mount

Thanks Tom . Greg that's good to hear, I was afraid it might ruin the the gasket.

Looking good Booker:cool:! There is a bunch of good builds going on right now!

Yea, I guess your right. What do you guys think about the head bolts?

Yes, Zinc Chromate primer but no alodine was used on the engine, LoL.

Thanks Greg. When I replaced my head gasket a few years ago I did not use any copper spray and had no issues. Some people say to use the copper spray,what do you guys think? I picked up this spray by permatex is it the correct type if I do use it? I used 2 head bolts to hook the engine hoist chains up when I removed the engine and plan on doing the same to install it. Will it be ok if I torque all of the head bolts and leave the 2 head bolts for the chain loose and once the engine is in torque them down? My head gasket is for the internal bypass head and has the little bump on it, I know it is ok for the external bypass head but do not like how the little bump sticks out beyond the head, has anyone cut the bump off without having any sealing issues? Am I being too picky? should I just leave it as is? I was on blueskies site www.50plymouth.com and it looks like he cut his bump off.

I took some close up shots to show how the spring and counter weight get installed on the exhaust manifold in case anyone needs it for future reference.

Today I was able to install the manifolds,fuel pump and prime and paint the head. One of the main reasons I wanted to pull the engine besides not being happy with my oil pressure was to get a good coat of paint on everything,its nice to see it all coming together .

I just ordered a pilot bushing from Vintage Power Wagons and they recommended to freeze it also. I also ordered a magnetic oil pan drain plug,I figured it wouldn't hurt to have that installed.

I just found this post by Bebop138 in another thread,wish I found it earlier he has found a easy way to pull the bushing. But sure enough my bushing is magnetic,anyone know where to get the good type or have a part number? The one I used was from Tennessee Clutch, National Part Number PB-286. "Pick this gem up on the web, took about three minutes to do and bushing came right out. First tap the bushing ( I was doing a Chev type, used 5/8 tap ), clean threads,insert bolt till it bottoms out in crank,turn slowly with even pressure and the bushing walks out. $5 bucks and welding the nut on. Cheap tool and works great.................Lee P.S. Another thing some of the bushings have been made in China---they use some steel mixed in their bushings. It make them not as good for lubricating the input shaft----use a real Oilite bushing----any of the bushings that you can pick with a magnet----DO NOT USE. "

Great idea, is a block of wood a good tool to use to drive it in? Should I use any grease?

I tried my puller a few more times with no luck, I then took out my sawzall and cut a slit in the bushing. It still took a couple of poundings with the puller to get it out(with a little heat). I hit the crank slightly with the blade and made a score in it, no biggie shouldn't harm anything. I then went to install the new bushing with a block of wood and it went in slightly crooked so I pulled it out,when I did it was cracked. At the crack the bushing seems to be very porous and not a solid brass construction. Is there an easy way to install the bushing? It seems like it is a tight fit, I will have to pick up a new one tomorrow.

They would be for a 23 inch block, mine seal fine now just would like to get some straight ones with no pits for the fresh rebuild .

Does anyone have a nice pair of valve covers they would like to get rid of? Mine are pitted and the sealing surfaces are not as straight as they should be.

If you asked a couple of days ago I would have a pic for you but now the gear is installed and the cover is on, All I have is a pic of the bolt heads.

Great link, that clears up my questions about the timing cover seals and felt seal .