aero3113

I will be going out to pick up some antifreeze for my rebuilt engine, what type/brand do you think I should use. Keep in mind that the block is as clean as can be and I am using a aluminum radiator.

Looks like I will be getting my heater core re-cored, during the pressure test they found multiple holes. They are going to try and have it done by friday.

I have an extra one, if you want it let me know.

When I took mine apart I didn't have to go that far. Can you maybe soak the parts in some Aerokroil to free them up? Then use some alcohol to dry it up then lube.

What you want to do is remove the TINY clip holding the vacuum lever on and remove the vacuum advance,then pull the screws that hold the cap clips on. I think you will also have to remove the nuts for the lead stud. Once all of this is done the breaker plate should pull right up. I did this a few months ago but forgot exactly how I did it (wasn't hard).

Happy Birthday - Very cool cake!

I would like to shoot for this weekend, I still have to cut and install my plug wires and I would like to get my heater core back also(I just dropped it off this morning).

I forgot about how bad my original front mount was off, this probably had a lot to do with the adjustment on the clutch pedal also.

Thanks for your concern guys but I really don't think there are any issues, if there is I'm sure you will hear about it .

Alshere59 not sure if you saw my above post but I am sure everything is ok, I was just tired and worn out. The over center adjustment was off by about 1/8 inch it should be 3/8ths and the pedal free play needed to be adjusted to specs(about 1 inch). I had my flywheel turned and there was heavy hot spots and cracks that needed to be ground down, I'm sure that had a lot to do with the adjustments. I am also sure this car has not been adjusted since new.

I used a weather seal form Home Depot that had adhesive on one side.

LoL, I am young and it still tired me out! I pulled the trans 2 times each time trying to figure out why it wouldn't go home and when installing it for the 3rd time I was shot. I wiggled it a lot and when I saw it was getting closer I gave up and used the bolts. When I was pulling it out I was afraid I was gonna drop it on my head and knock my teeth out. Last night I was bolting the exhaust up and a wrench fell straight on to my forehead and left a nice bump .

What I think the issue was is the collar for the input shaft bearing was snug. I'm sure if I kept wiggling the trans it would have went in,but I got lazy. I tested the clutch a bunch of times and put the car in gear and pushed in the clutch to let the car roll,all seems to be good with no binding. I was amazed at how out of adjustment my pedal free play was and the over center spring adjustment.

I was able to install the transmission,drive shaft and hook up the e-brake today. Lifting the trans on you back under the car was no fun! It took me a few times to get it lined up,once I did it would not go in all the way. There was about a 1/2 inch to go and it would not go any further, I had to use the bolts to draw it in. Last night I was looking around under the hood and noticed a little drip of antifreeze on the upper part of the right fender under the heater,today I investigated and found my heater core leaking . Tomorrow I will find a radiator shop near my job and get it pressure tested and fixed. Better to find it now then when I'm overheating due to loss of antifreeze.

When I first got my 50 Plymouth it had one in the engine, it did not leak and seemed like it worked fine.

Thanks guys, I set the plugs to .035 last night while watching T.V. with my wife, this way she can't say I spend too much time on the car and not enough time with her .

Joe,you may have a dead spot on your armature in your starter. Bring it in to a shop and they can bench test it for you.

Thanks Don

Yes Joe, the plugs were out but even with the plugs out the motor was turning slow. I think because of all the tight clearances and the new rear seal it was a little harder to turn over. As long as I didn't start the engine with no oil pressure I am sure no damage was done (I did use plenty of break in lube).

I decided to go out and buy some oil, got home put it in and started cranking. I cranked for about 15 seconds and nothing, tried again and nothing. I wanted to try one more time before I started trouble shooting and nothing!! I checked the oil pressure relief valve and it was free I went over to the oil pump pulled it half way out and no oil. When I put the oil pump in I put a lot of break in oil in it but guess it wasn't enough to get it pumping. I took a syringe and filled the pump with oil and started cranking. Another 5-10 seconds and I finally showed pressure, up to about 50 psi . I have spark also! but I wasn't paying attention and the rotor spun and hit the cap when it was off and broke,so now I need a rotor.

What is a good gap for these plugs?

Your getting closer! What type of oil are you using? I was told to use Rotella straight 30 weight.

Ok good news, the upper is worse than the lower

When I got my exhaust manifold it had a broken stud for the electric choke so I ended up drilling and taping for bolts,it looks like it should work well. My radiator hoses have wire in them that are pretty beat up and rusted, do I need to keep them in? They seem like they will keep form without them. I would like to remove them so they do not contaminate the antifreeze.

When I test fit mine it did have very little play in it, it was not a tight fit.