aero3113
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Everything posted by aero3113
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Fred, before I rebuilt my engine I thought the ticking sound was my fuel pump also. I am using the same fuel pump and the ticking is gone now. When you get a chance measure and adjust the valves that need it and you will be surprised at how quiet she will be.
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Sounds like your carb may need to be cleaned out. Your high idle is working correctly.
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Greg, your link didn't work but I did find this info: http://www.outlawpulling.com/PDF/Ford%20V-8%20Tank%20Engine.pdf
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I was able to get a nut on the remaining threads of the stud and installed the grounding strap that I made. I stall have to get a bolt for the head bolt. Its raining today, tomorrow I will install the new plug wire and test both .
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I contacted Tisco and told them about the pin hole in my plug wire, they sent me a new set FREE of charge, I received them today. Now I have extras
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This is the set I used on my engine. Sorry for the sideways pic.
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I was talking to the guy that maintains it and he showed me the engine,it has the original Ford V8 in it. They also come with a radial or the flathead set up.
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A local museum needed to store their Sherman tank for a couple of days in the hangar I work in. Thought you guys would like these videos, not sure why the guy was all dressed up in gear though .
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Fred the 47 sounds great, I think with a little valve adjustment it will get rid of the ticking sound you have.
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Did you play any sports? I may have bumped into you out on the field .
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Glad I could help!
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Yes it is, graduated from Wantagh high school (warriors) in 1997. Black and gold were our colors.
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In aviation everything is referenced from the pilot's seat looking forward. I would say the same goes with cars.
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I did see one on ebay a week or two ago I will try and find it for you.
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Do I just drain the radiator or do I have to drain the block also?
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If I remove the second head bolt in the front by the battery will I have to drain the coolant or can I just remove it and install the new one without worrying about losing coolant?
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Found this on the H.A.M.B http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=429644
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I received the tapped head bolt from hkestes41 today, I will install it once I get a bolt to fit it and I still have to install my ground strap. The engine does seem to crank a little faster after some miles on it but I am sure this will help a lot.
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Greg, it drives like a different car smooth and responsive. Towards the end of the drive today I notice it was running a little rough, I investigated and the carb nuts were a little loose. I also checked the head bolts and all were tight. After every drive I have been checking all of the nuts and bolts, I think after today's drive they should be good.
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LoL, I knew you were going to say something about the dice, but Frankie is right about the trifecta .
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I'm still not sure why it needs to be set on 4 cylinder for it to read correct. I will get a tac/dwell meter and compare it to the gauge and see which setting is correct. Powerhouse, I noticed when I received the gauge from you it was on 4 cylinder, is that what you ran it on?
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I figured it out, Powerhouse made a new face for me and it was hitting the needle. I trimmed it and all is good .
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I went for a drive with the wife and dog this morning, the Plymouth drove great. I put 40 miles on since the rebuild and not one drop of oil under the car, I hope it will stay this way . We stopped for some Italian ices and ate them at a local pond,a great way to start off the weekend . I think the duck liked the car
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I'm not sure if the gauge is working correctly, at idle with the internal switch on 6 cylinder it is at around 250 RPM. If I switch it to 4 Cylinder it jumps up to around 500 RPM which seems correct. When I step on the gas it will only go up to 1500 RPM?? You can see in the above video what I am talking about . Any suggestions? Is there a adjustment pot internal? When I get some time I will check.
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What is a good idle RPM?
