MarcDeSoto

I must have those missing c-clamps somewhere and that missing front bearing block. If I can't find them, I'll have to pay the piper. I guess they cost about $200 per kit? Thanks for the great pics Dodge. Marc.

I've heard that a quality upholstery job with wool broadcloth is about a 5K to 6K dollar job. Not cheap!

I've heard of a Spitfire engine which were in Chryslers, both sixes and straight eights. But I've never heard of a SpitSFire. Oh, I see, you painted that on.

Amen, rubber! Once I towed this 48 Desoto over the Tehachapi's on an auto transport with the those straps cinched tight over the front wheels. I had my brother driving behind me to check on the car. Turns out, I hit a big bump or dip in the road and the straps came off, but I didn't know it. After we arrived at my house, my brother said you car kept going forward and jerking back on the transport. Only the safety chain prevented my car from falling off!!!! Thanks, Marc.

After looking around in my garage, I found three of the four needle bearing blocks for my driveshaft. My bearing blocks are the kind that don't have holes through the flanges. I guess that means mine had to have the clamps with the holes to connect the u-joints to the car. See DodgeB4ya's pics of u-joints. but I can't find the clamps at least for now. I looks like the kits come with the type that don't need the clamps, since they have the holes through the flanges. I rolled under my car and saw that the hand brake has four studs coming out, and the rear axle has four holes for connection. So I need four nuts for the front and four bolts and nuts for the rear axle connection.

Tom, When you disconnect the driveshaft, do you just disconnect it from the rear axle? Or do you remove the driveshaft completely? If you just disconnect the axle end, how do you support the driveshaft? Thanks for the pics. Marc.

My U-joints appear to be in good condition, no play. Maybe I should just get some new needle pins for the block assemblies, if that is available, and lubricate with U-joint grease?

Where can I can NOS u-joint kits for my 48 DeSoto, or do they still make them? A DeSoto, like Chrysler, used the cross and roller type of u-joint.

I am planning to tow my 48 DeSoto to Moyer Automotive so they can install new brake lines, fuel line, new exhaust system, driveshaft, etc. on a lift. I went to U-haul to get a car transport to haul my car there. But they said there is no winch on the car trailer to haul the car up the ramps. I've rented car transports in the past and they seemed to have winches in the past, but not now. So I'm going to buy a Come-a-long winch at Harbor Freight. Should I buy two Come-a-longs, or would just one be enough? Should I buy the 2 ton or the 4 ton Come-a-long? And is towing with a tow dolly a bad idea with the drive shaft installed. My car has fluid drive. Thanks.

i believe the Dodge block is a couple of inches shorter than the Chrysler 6 block, which is 250 cu. in. The Dodge block is the length of the Plymouth block.

I inspected my car and I found the door check arm hanging inside the door. What happened many decades ago, is the swivel part of the door check that attaches to the front body of the car, door jamb?, broke off. Maybe I can find a replacement, or try to weld it back on?

I can't find it. I did find one for a PT Crusier with 48 K miles.

My 48 DeSoto needs a new door check for the driver door. Does anyone sell these, or will I have comb junk yards for one? If you are not sure what a door check is, it's the small arm that stops the door from opening all the way to where the back edge of the front fender slices into your door. That's what happened to my car long before I bought it. Thanks, Marc.

Good question. I took my left door window out on my 48 DeSoto business coupe and I know it will be hard to put that clip back on because I will have to work blind. I'm going to practice putting it on the regulator before I put the window back in. If any of your windows are broken or cracked, it would be good to get new old stock window frame and roller assemblies. Trying to take glass out of those frames is dangerous and difficult!!!

I always loved the 42-48 Dodges. I love that side opening hood. I think it was the last car that did that! There was a totally restored 48 Dodge red convertible for sale on Classic Auto Trader for 25K! I called and it was a Chrysler dealership. Someone traded it in! But it had already sold. Marc.

You can say that again. that's a benefit of living out in the country, more space. I don't have room for parts cars, but wish I had access to one! Marc.

I think you misunderstood my statement. I never said I wanted to swap springs around! When I said "these springs" might work for the brake pedal return spring, I was referring to your tip of the springs on Ebay. Not my clutch and handbrake springs.

Thanks for that info. Luckily I'm not missing all of my springs. I found my handbrake spring and the big heavy clutch pedal spring is still on the car. But these might work for the brake pedal return spring and maybe the accelerator spring. Or maybe that should be a weaker spring.

I had a friend who had a 48 Dodge two door sedan back in the 80s. He painted it light green. Your car looks great with that light blue color! Dodge made some beautiful car ads back in the 40s saying "Smoothest Car Afloat!". I guess they were comparing the Dodge to a boat?

For my 48 DeSoto restoration, is there a place where you can buy small springs like the Brake Pedal Return Spring, the Accelerator Spring, Hand brake spring, and any other smaller springs needed for these Mopars? Seems like if they still make brake parts like master cylinders and wheel cylinders, they should still make brake pedal return springs. Or do you just have to go to a hardwood store and buy generic springs and hope they will work?

If you don't use the original type master cylinder that has the shaft for the clutch and brake pedals, how would you mount the pedals?

I've heard many people say we should all convert our old cars to front disc brakes and dual reservoir master cylinders, such as Jay Leno. This might be easier to do on something like a '63 Dodge Dart, what about a 1940s Mopar? Has anyone out there done this conversion and how much would it cost?

I kind of gave up on the idea of rebuilding my master and wheel cylinders. They have been sitting a rusting too long. I was able to knock the pedal pin out of the master cylinder with a drift. It's only a bit rusty on the end. I'm going to try to reuse it. Or if I can't, they sell new ones on Ebay for $46. So I ordered a new master and six new wheel cylinders from Rock Auto and saved about $140 over the Ebay prices. I get to send back my old master cylinder for a $25 core refund.

And 41-48 Mopars are 1 1/8" bore, and 1949-55 Mopars are 1" bore on their master cylinders.

thanks for that info! So you just taught me something. I have a 1950-55 master cylinder! So I should buy a 1950 master cylinder kit. I have a 1946 Motor Manual that goes back to 1935. According to my book, the 1941 models also had a 1 1/8" bore. I wonder if I should buy a new master cylinder with a 1 1/8" bore, or maybe it doesn't matter?