Rusty O'Toole

Between what he paid for that car, import duties if any, shipping 12000 miles, he probably spent enough to buy a good sized house. So looks like the loss/gain is pretty even. Regardless, it's nice to see the car went where it is appreciated.

"My Window Fitter mate suggested that no Engineer would know otherwise if one was to somehow paint the 'Armourplate Safety Glass' circular motif (like on the other windows) onto the corner windows." The best way to do this would be to photograph or copy the motif and use it to make a mask of thin rubber to glue on the window. Then gently sandblast the motif into the glass. That is more or less how they did it at the factory. Or possibly use acid to etch it in. "I live in the Australian Capital Territory, the city is basically set up around being somewhere for the government to operate, it's like it's own little country (think Vatican City LOL). Everything here is way more difficult and beauracratic than it needs to be. " A more apt comparison for Americans might be the District of Columbia, home of Washington DC

There should be upholsterer's supply stores in your area. They have a selection of upholstery fabrics from $15 or $20 a yard, maybe less on sale. You need 5 to 7 yards to do a typical car. Don't forget to pick up some nylon thread, regular cotton thread will not stand up in a car due to the sun exposure, your upholstery will fall apart after a few years. For a beginner cloth is a lot more forgiving than vinyl, you can pick out the stitches and try again, vinyl is ruined if you make a mistake.

If your wife has a sewing machine you can make seat covers better and cheaper than you can buy. Tailored to your vehicle. It isn't hard. For complete directions there must be some good books on upholstery at the library or you may find something online.

The Plymouth Suburban was the first all steel station wagon and had an effect similar to blowing a hole in the dam. It started the whole station wagon fad that helped make the fifties the fifties. Can you imagine, station wagon sales went from less than 1% of car sales to 20% in 5 or 6 years, and some experts predicted by 1960 station wagons would be more common than sedans. In spite of being one of the most significant developments in the auto industry, its collector value is practically nil. They lagged behind convertibles, hardtops, coupes, and even sedans for years. Only recently have collectors given them any notice at all. Something like the minivan, another Chrysler innovation that changed the automotive world but will never be recognised. So, if you like the car go for it. But don't expect hordes of collectors to come banging on your door with fists full of cash. .................. Thanks Reg for the pics of what the first model looked like, right down to the Moose Nose Brown paint job. Marred only by the whitewall tires.

If I understand correctly you need to form the eaves trough like area under the edge of the flap. This can be tricky for a beginner. You will need to do it in sections. Cut out only the section you are working on, weld in the new part then on to the next part. The big problem is distortion or warping of the metal. I can't help you much there, skill comes with experience. I will say, be sure your part fits dead, do not bend anything into position before welding or it will distort.

The vent is to cool the outside of the Fluid Drive unit, when the vehicle is in service it will suck in a certain amount of dust, dirt, oil and water. When driving in the rain some water is apt to get in. This does no harm, and there is a screen to keep out big rocks and gravel stones. If the screen is plugged up you could wire brush it and blow it out with an air hose other than that don't worry about it.

If your old heater has 2 6 volt motors you can run them in series on 12 volts. This usually requires isolating one of them from ground, and grounding it to the input on the other.

When it is time to reinstall the lock I will use a small screwdriver thru the hole in the edge of the door to guide the pin into place. It is not necessary to disturb the upholstery.

Here is a trick worth remembering if you are messing around with old Chrysler products and need to get keys. I vaguely remembered from a similar Chrysler I owned years ago, that there was a simple way around this problem. Looking at the car today it all came back. On the inside edge of the door there is a small square hole next to the lock. It is possible to remove the lock without disturbing the upholstery panel or anything else. You reach into the hole with a small screwdriver and pull or pry the tab of a locking clip toward you. It helps if the screwdriver is bent on the end, like one you would use to adjust brakes. Once the clip is pulled or pried over, the lock is supposed to come straight out of the door. There is no linkage fastened to the inside, it has a square shaft that goes into the lock. I pulled and pushed the locking clip back and forth a few times until I was sure it was completely free. Then carefully pried and wiggled the lock out with a putty knife. Since the door lock and the ignition use the same key I can now take the lock apart and key it or take it to a locksmith. Likewise, the glove compartment and trunk take the same key so I took out the glove compartment lock (2 philips screws). By taking the locks to a locksmith already out of the car, it is a lot cheaper to have the keys made.

According to the old owner's manual (not from this car, from one a couple years newer) the keys come with a tag that has the key number on it. The owner is warned to record the number and destroy the tag. Of course all that is long gone, keys invoice tag etc. The car was auctioned off last May from the estate of a collector, it had no keys at that time. It was sold as a parts car, I bought it from a junk dealer on that understanding. Frankly it is so far gone it should be scrapped. But so far I have gotten it running, the motor is good, it drives around the yard, even the brakes work. But the body is rotten interior destroyed by animals paint job shot and chrome pitted. I should have my head examined for even thinking about fixing it up. Anyway I know I can take the locks out and key them, I was hoping there might be some easier way that I don't know about.

I depends how bad it is and how big an area needs to be replaced. It should not need to be braced and should not move. You may need to remove the windshield in fact it may make the job easier. If you are not an expert welder and bodyman it would be better to hire the work done. This is a tricky job for one's first attempt. I am visualising rust holes around the vent and at the base of the windshield, if it is not that bad I may have over reacted. If it is simply a matter of bolting in a new vent flap and replacing a tray that is different.

Tim the paint job was done in a rather poor shop with inadequate facilities, the painter assured me he put on enough paint and clear to wet sand and buff out. He knows what he is doing, at the time he did not have the best paint shop. So it appears it is possible to wet sand buff and wax and get a good looking car. It was never meant to be a show car just a nice looking driver.

Was the vehicle originally sold in Australia? If so it must have complied with Australian law when new. In that case I should think it still does, as they do not usually make safety laws retroactive.

Is it possible to get new keys made by the dealer or lock smith by referring to the car's serial number? Would this apply to a 1949 Chrysler? It's #99700194 built in Windsor if it matters.

You need to clean the bearings, pack them with fresh grease, wipe the hub and races clean. Install the inner bearing and grease seal. Put the hub on the car, install the outer bearing, the washer with the tab on it, then the big nut. Tighten the nut snug then give the hub a spin. Back off the nut and tighten it barely tight and put in the cotter pin. The reason to spin the hub is so excess grease can squish out of the bearing. The bearing needs to be adjusted just right, not too tight and not too loose. Finally put the grease cap on. Do this correctly and you can tow the car from coast to coast if you want to. But on final assembly you should replace the grease seal with a new one, clean the hub thoroughly and put a big gob of grease in the hub.

Tim you say you would not buff clear coat on black. Happens I had my Porsche 911 painted black w/clear a couple of years ago, the paint job did not come out the greatest and I was planning on having it wet sanded and buffed, what alternative do I have?

My guesses, A 48 Buick B 49 Nash C 49 Oldsmobile D 48 Chev E 49 Ford F 48 Chrysler G 49 Studebaker H 49 Frazer I 48 DeSoto J 48 Dodge K 48 Plymouth L 48 Pontiac M 48 Hudson N 49 Crosley

Valve guides.

I use a spot sandblaster like this: http://www.buytools.ca/index.php/air-tools/air-sand-blaster-guns-and-cabinets/air-spot-blaster-gun-kit-closed-cycle-free-blast.html The round nozzle is just the right size for spark plugs, and the blaster can also be used for bodywork. Sand blasting is the only way to get a plug clean enough to work if it gets gummed up from excess oil and gas residue. This is very easy to do when you oil up an old motor and try to get it running. If you put in new plugs they just get gummed up too. They get glazed with a black deposit that seems to conduct electricity or short out the spark, and nothing but sand blasting will take it off. So, when reviving an old motor I prefer to clean and gap the plugs, get it running long enough to burn off the old oil and gas in the combustion chamber then put in new plugs when I know the engine is going to be OK. Incidentally when you sandblast plugs inspect them carefully with a magnifying glass and pick out any bits of grit. There will be 1 or 2 bits of grit about half the time. You don't want sand getting into your cylinders. Spark plug gap for flathead Chrysler products, .025 up to 1948, .035 1949 and newer.

Has it been out of service long? How many miles on it? I recently bought a 49 Chrysler, I don't know when it was last in service but there is an insurance slip from 1965 in the glove box. It has old rusty plugs as you describe. I sand blasted them and put them back in, they look unworn and unburned on the cylinder side. As soon as I cleaned and gapped the plugs, replaced a bad coil wire and put some gas down the carb it fired right up and runs like new. You might be surprised that your old rusty plugs will work as good as new. They don't have any moving parts and porcelain and steel don't deteriorate. Why not try them. I think it would be a good gag to have a motor that purrs like a big cat with rusty plugs, cracked plug wires etc.

If the tube is rusted out you will have all the water streaming up the front of the motor. The front cylinders will run too cool while the back cylinders run too hot. This is one reason they put the heat gauge sensor at the back of the motor. An electronic temp sensor will tell the tale if your motor is running. Front and back should be the same temp or close to it.

The old box heater is fairly easy to install and better than nothing. Will heat the car, up to a point. But does not circulate fresh air. So you need to have the vent and/or window open for ventilation. Some have defrost ducts, some don't. You might ask around your old car friends or hit up some old car flea markets. They always seem to be available if you look around. I have 2 or 3 in the back of my garage.

If I was taping off the circular emblem I would tape over the whole thing with strips of tape, press around the circle with a fingernail, draw around the circle with a sharp pencil or ballpoint pen then cut around with a sharp knife. Somehow a pen or pencil line makes it easier to make a smooth cut.

Dave has a good answer here, but may I make one suggestion to make the job easier. Paint the silver circle first, just spray bomb the top of the heater without masking. Then mask off the circle as he suggests, cutting around the circle with an X acto knife. Then paint the outsides of the heater. This is a little easier than painting the box first as it involves less masking.