homer2105

You guys did a great job on the pics of the truck brake. Is there anyone out there that has pics of their D24? Having a bear of a time reconstructing what was there as it was in the trunk when I bought car . I have fluid drive so park brake is somewhat of a necessity!!. Shop manual is pretty much useless as far as any expolded view. Need procedure to adjust. When I fiddle with anchor bolt it tightens up. Had Tennessee Clutch & Supply reline it. Great people, reasonable and fast turn around. Email if you'd like: homer2105@aol.com

I am in the process of rebuilding and re installing park brake on 48 Deluxe. I ended up with a little cone shaped spiral spring that I don't know where it goes. Manual is pretty much useless as far as any kind of an exploded view. It tells you to tighten down anchor bolt but that just seems to lock up the shoe against that drum. Does anyone have an exploded diagram of the park brake and a procedure on how to adjust it correctly? Also replaced pinion seal on rear end. Is there torque specs to re tighten the nut on the yoke? Feel free to email me as I'd like to get the old turd out this weekend if possible. Thanks a bunch.. homer2105@aol.com I tried to sign up for a month of Chilton manual on line............useless. I asked about park brake repair on 48 Dodge, they show a drwaing of a car on a 30% grade!! Real nice, will cancel monday.

Iam in the process of rebuilding and re installing park brake on 48 Deluxe. I ended up with a little cone shaped spiral spring that I don't know where it goes. Manual is pretty much useless as far as any kind of an exploded view. It tells you to tighten down anchor bolt but that just seems to lock up the shoe against that drum. Does anyone have an exploded diagram of the paek brake and a procedure on how to adjust it correctly? Also replaced pinion seal on rear end. is there torque specs to re tighten the nut on the yoke? Feel free to email me as I'd like to get the old turd out this weekend if possible. Thanks a bunch.. homer2105@aol.com

Hi Bamforth again, doing the same thing you are. I have one source that says to count the number of turns when backing out nut then doing the same in reverse. My son-inlaw is a mechanic and he said to use a punch to make reference marks to line it all when reversing. This way you can use an impact to loosen nut and just realign refernce marks when done. I'm looking for a fill plug to top off rear end when done as it slung out a bunch.

I've been on this COMPLETE brake on my 48 D24. I have bought brand new slaves, sent shoes out to be relined, had drums turned, replaced all hard lines and hoses, rebuilt master put all this back together . When I installed shoes I made a tool to check to see if they were equally centered. Had a bear of a time bleeding (didn't know about the bench bleed) finally got a halfway decent pedal and was mashing on it to see if it was going to hold when all of a sudden the pedal went to the floor. There was a puddle of fluid under right front. Upon inspection I noticed that the seal came out from arond the piston. I remember when I put thes together I had 3 different lenghths of those push rods that go betewwen cyl pisyon an shoe. It appears the rod was too short and allowed the piston to come past the end of the bore. Which length rod should I be using? These slaves are brand new from Roberts. When I was taking all this apart I disn't realize the differnet lenghts. What now, oh Gods of Mopar brake systems?

Is there a definitive answer to how to go about bleeding and adjusting brakes? Do you bleed first or adjust first. Do you adjust heel then toe or toe then heel. Does the master have to be bled? Once in the car is that still necessary? I don't think the factory manual mentions bench bleeding, I have found all these answers to these questions on the internet...BUT THEY ARE ALL DIFFERENT! Factory manuals (like Harley manuals) seem to assume you've already done this before and know what you're doing. The pictires taken with 60 year old technology simply put...sucks. Would be nice if they had some exploded diagrams. Do they have a manual like "working on an old Dodge for idiots?"

I made up something very similar to thus but dumped it into a jar above the MC height, How long do you have keep pumping this stuff thru? Some one told me I should have adusted the shoes first, then someone else says you can't adjust shoes with air in lines. I did google on adjusting shoes and the one that's on this site. One says to adjust anchor bolts first then cam, the other says adjust the cam first then the anchor. When I try to adjust anchor bolt from the back side one way it tightens up to the point of not beong able to turn it, the other way the nut come loose. WTF is with these things? Starting to think they are a real POS.

This this is making me nuts (more nuts!) I have just done a COMPLETE brake job on a D24. New slaves. rebuilt master, new hard lines, new rubber hoses, new shoes (arched), turned drums. Now the fun part, I didn't bench bleed my master and I'm trying to bleed my brakes. I've been around this sucker at least 4 times and still don't have a pedal. Someone told me to bench bleed the master. Can this be done while it's till in the car? I also noticed I'm getting some little black specks in the fluid that comes out. Should I flush the whole syten with alcohol? I'm using DOT 5 fluid, very expensive! I also bought a Mighty Vac but haven't used it because friends tell me it isn't worth a pinch of poop. Any help on this? Thanks, I'm ALMOST on the road.

Never mind, got a good photo off the following post that serves as a perfect picture.

Does anyone have a drawing or a good picure of the e-brake? The one in facory manual leaves a lot to be desired. I'm trying to adjust mine and it appears that someone has modified it. Probably out of necessity. There is a small threaded shaft next to the adjusting nut threaded shaft. On mine it was completely loose. It appears to be able to adjust the front part of that shoe. I can't get anymoe adjustment out of the adjusting nut. The front of that band is touching the drum and the center of the band is still about an 1/8" out and won't hold. Thanks

I could have sworn I posted a question as to adjusting my brakes on my D24 the other day but I'll be dipped if I can find it. This must be part of getting long of tooth and grey of muzzle, if any body finds me, let me know!

I have just replaced all my and they are all 3/16. Don;t forget to relace the hoses as well.

I'm in the process of doing complete brake job on a '48 D24. Have rebuilt master and all 6 slaves, replaced all hard lines, replaced hoses, had shoes relined and drums turned. I have 3 differnent lengths of the push rods that go between the slave and the shoe. What's up with that? Does anyone have a complete set of the ones I should have? Next have to adjust brakes (major and minor) add fluid (Dot 5?). When I go to adjust major the bolt tightens. Is that right? Thnks , Bruce

The Plymouth Bulletin #229 (March-April 1998) has an article on how to build a low cost replacement MT-19H. Thanks, Slapz

Finally got drum off. took that special tool, some heat and some pounding but I got it. I was reading somewhere about a tool you can build that will check to see if your shoes are centered. Does anyone have this? I'm sending my shoes to Tennessee Clutch and supply. These guys are the cat's butt. Really cheap compared to what I've seen other places. One place was about $270 for four wheels! These guys are WAY cheaper than that. I would appreciate a drawing or picture of this tool. Thanks a bunch for all your help and suggestions. Slapz

Get ahold of Tennessee Clutch and Supply. 800-262-5882. These guys are very nice and really cheap.

Are those 3/4 inch nuts (at the ten o'clock and two o'clock postions) the shoe adjusters on rear drums? Tightening or loosening them makes no diiference as far as the drum being able to move at all. I can tighten or loosen them until the nut is just turning and doesn't appear to be doing anything. I think it's time for a little Chevis on the rocks with a touch of soda water.

I have a friend whos dad has one of these and I'm borrowing it as we speak. I still cannot get that drum to let go. I've tried loosening/ tightening the bolts on the backing plate at the 10:00 and 2:00 positions. Which way is tightening/loosening? The drum does not move. Should it be loose? There are no brake lines on the car now as I'm replacing them too so there is no pressure on the shoes. I also noticed the studs are stripped (left hand thread) where can I get these replaced? Thanks, Bruce. Anyone in the far west Chicago land area?

How can you drive it around when your pedal goes to the floor? Have Fred Flintsone in the car with you and take the floor out.

Looked at 3 drum pullers on ebay and NAPA also has them but they are a bit pricey to pull two drums off. See my attached pic (if I can get it) Notice the prongs are behind the flange and the center bolt is on axle. Haven't tried loosening adjusters yet. Never mind I don't know how to post pics. If your really interested give me your email addr and I can send pics there or someone tell me how to post a pic. I have it in "My Documents".

I have a 48 D24. I have no brakes at all. Have it up on jack stands with front drums off (they came off easy). I have master cyl off, cleaned up, painted waiting for rebuild kit. I have been battling the rear drums. I have a six inch 3 jaw puller from Harbor Freight that the fingers on the end fit under the flange that the lug bolts come out of. I've heated the drum, but not red hot, squirted a bunch of PB Blaster on it everytime I walk by it, banged it with a hammer, (both drum and axle). I've got this puller really cranked down and am afraid somethings going to give. I hope it's going to be the brake drum coming off. I couldn't do the suggestion of driving it as I had no pedal at all. Is there something I should be loosening on the back of the brake plate? Thanks, Slapz.

I ran into an old friend that noticed my 48 Dodge Custom in my driveway (awaiting a complete brake job). He told me something about a shield or something behind the water pump getting rusty or something and starving the rear cylider of coolant water thus burning up the valves. Does anybody know of this? If so what's the cure and how bad is it to yourself? Thanks, Slapz

It's an "Ultramatic".

Want you to know I appreciate all the comebacks to my original question. I'm 65 this year and am still continually amazed at he amount of information available on the internet! I remember "back in the day" when you would have to ask buddies or buddies dads or buddies of buddies and so forth and even then what you got was questionable. This is really cool. Thanks again, I'll keep you posted as to progress. I mentioned I also had a 1950 Packard. I went to buy my Dodge in a warehouse and the Packard was sitting next to it so I bought the pair thinking I could sell the Packard to offset some of the cost of the Dodge. The Packard is also a really cool car but parts and such aren't as available and are pricey. Love to be able to keep both but don't have the space or the money. Any interest in it give me a post and I'll send pics.

Sounds like good advice as to dis assembling everything and seeing what I need. I've gotten caught up in that trick bag before when re doing an old Harley. What I thought was going to take maybe a month tops, turned into over a year because a lot of the places were out of stock. Come to find out a lot of these "parts stores" don't actually stock parts themselves they have them drop shipped from other vendors (from China). It sometimes gets to be a visciuos circle and frustrating as hell at times. Can turn a fun project into a nightmare. Thank you all with your advice. Now I have to find a spot whre she may have to sit a couple of weeks up on jack stands. My neighbors love it when I have "junk" cars sitting in my driveway. Hey I was here before they were (heh-heh-heh). Later on........