mechresto

Yeah, the mounting gasket (s), are also how you set the fuel pressure to the carb. One gasket, or thin gaskets raises pressure, thicker lowers it. Long forgotten method to ensure you don't overpressure the carb. If memory serves the Carter pump delivers 5psi....just over the normal working pressure of the carb.......solves a lot of issues later on

Carter M2091 Don't forget to shim the pump :^)

I'd opt for the lexan approach....for two reasons: Impact resistance. Initial investment and replacement costs. I have 3/8" lexan in the windows and doors on my CNC mills....if it will stop an 8 pound tool flying out of the spindle at 20000 rpm.... should work for your floor. My 2 cents....with adjustment for inflation ain't worth much!

Yeah, they're hard to see... They open up as the fitting gets tighter, if you overtorque them....they should be visible. An extremely good double flare tool is priceless. The El cheapo tools just don't work.

Did you bench bleed your MC? Also always inspect the double flares, modern steel line loves to cracking on the outside of the fold at the seam.

Hardened seats are the only way to go....as far as cutting yourself at a later date. ..no issues. The probem of modern fuel with no cushion agent (lead) is eliminated as the seats won't pound out.

Your contact area is far too wide, also it appears that most are running off the top of the valve.....that alone will cause overheating and burning. The best advice I can give is to take the block back to the machine shop, they will recognize the error and redo the seat cutting if they're a decent shop. Good luck

Bill, I don't know if I'm correct, but check the bolt pattern of a stromberg 97. If memory serves correct, that is the carb used.

Your '54 is 6v. Correct? Timing light is 12v. Use an aux. power source to feed the timing light only. A 12v battery hooked up negative ground to the light should work.

Maybe a dumb question---------is your distributor shaft rotating when you crank the engine?

there's a ground strap on your points? there should not be one, one side of the points are connected to the coil, the other side is already grounded via the breaker plate. if you or someone else has connected an auxiliary ground, remove it. some models have a ground strap from the breakerplate to the distributor housing, early model vac advance units had an issue with bad grounding, if yours has this braided strap from breakerplate to housing leave it in. as to your ballast resistor, it reduces voltage at the points "during running only" it's function is to keep point arcing to a minimum. a 12v system needs straight battery voltage to the points when cranking to provide the hottest spark possible to avoid hard starting issues, so the ballast resistor needs to be by-passed during cranking. you'll save yourself a bunch of headaches in doing so. It's no huge deal wiring in a by-pass on a conventional key start system, with a foot starter there's a fairly simple way, if going for a stock appearance you just have to hide one wire. If you're interested, fire me an email and I'll show you how it's done. Bryan

as your truck has no residual pressure valve, (or shouldn't) then clean the MC and reverse flush the lines up to the MC. "floaters" in the system can and will plug the fill hole and the small bleed hole in the MC. then recheck your brake setup making sure you have adequate clearance on the shoes, also adjust the MC pushrod to allow complete MC piston travel. too tight will cause the piston to not uncover the bleed hole in MC. If I was to hazard a guess I'd say you're probably a little tight on the "heels" of your brake shoe adjustment. Bryan

There is no steering wheel "interchange" listing, at least none that I've ever seen. as far as the entire assembly, you are restricted to '48 & '49 B1B, C, D, 1/2-1ton conventional cab, '48-'49 B1B, C, D 1/2-1ton with flat face cowl (early type), '48-'49 B1B,C .D 1/2-1ton with flat face cowl (late type). Bryan

Both good suggestions however, when reading the original post he states that "it has a exhaust sound out the carb when you rev it up a bit." and "will not rev above around 2,000 rpm". both symptoms will get better with an increase in rpm if the valves are set too tight or simply leaking. Valve reversion is negated by RPM wheras late timing is magnified by RPM. Bryan

Sounds like late cam timing. if you have a vacuum gauge, get it running and take a reading. assuming that your ignition circuit and carb are tolerably in adjustment, your vacuum reading will give you your answer. This is probably the most important tool you will ever use when it comes to tuning and diagnosis Bryan

Jeff Spent about 5 hours going thru my interchange manuals tonight. New Process 4sp models have absolutely no interchangeable parts with the 5sp versions. Dodge used 5 versions of the NP 4sp from 1932 thru 1955. The Clark transmissions 200v,205v etc were used in dodge trucks as 5speed units, both as 5th direct and 5th OD. the Clark family shares damn near all of the parts from the 4sp, 5sp, 5sp w/OD. So if your book shows parts being interchanged from 4speed to 5speed OD transmissions, and as Clark was the only manufacturer that did that regularly, I'm guessing that you are looking at a clark 4 spd picture. There were no clark 4spd units used in any dodge truck from 1932 thru 1955. (thats the newest I go in the interchanges, after all, no one made a decent vehicle after 1955, right!) As an adendum- there was 1 orphan NP trans used by Dodge trucks- a 4 speed underdrive trans, which shared most of the parts with the 4 speed Bryan

as the 4th gear in a standard 4spd unit is direct, meaning the mainshaft turns 1 to 1 in fourth, the fourth gear simply locks the mainshaft to the input shaft. the five speed (overdrive model) runs the fifth or OD gear off of the countershaft to provide a less than 1 to 1 ratio. just changing the one gear will do nothing, you have to provide an extra gear on the countershaft as well. Bryan

That is one EXTREMELY rare tractor you have purchased. There was only a handfull of #3 CO-OP's built with LP. Avg price in non running condition about $9000 US. Looked thru all of my old manuals and I have nothing in the way of specs for the LP side, however the rest of the specs as far as tuning are the same as the truck engine. I do have the original nebraska field test data for the #3gas, in PDF format if interested, shoot me an email and I'll send it to ya. Hope you get the answers you need to the LP side. Bryan

The reason for the resistor, whether it be a ballast type or a built in is to lower the voltage at the points, in the case of a 12v system the drop should be down around the 9.6v range max. This is simply to prevent point burn, the higher the primary voltage, the greater the amount of premature burn. hence a 6v system does'nt need one. If you go with a 12v internal resisted coil and you suffer from hard starting and it's traced to the secondary voltage to low at cranking speed, then go with a ballast resistor and wire it to bypass the ballast during cranking (full 12v to the ign circuit) and return to ballast during run circuit (extra wire needed to the coil). after a few hours run time, examine your points carefully. lok for material transfer from one contact to the other, if none present then youre good to go, if you have transfer then the microfarad rating of your condenser will need to be raised or lowered dependant upon which way the transfer is. I have no idea why some systems tolerate the change over to 12v and some don't, the condenser shouldn't give a crap either way, but some do. Bryan

Jim Any internally resisted 12v coil will work, '60's '70's GM. For the fuel gauge, a voltage reducer will be required, radio shack has 'em. For the heater motor, replacement is the easiest, if you can find a motor that will bolt in, otherwise remodeling of the motor carrier will be in order. not a huge pain but a pain nevertheless. A word of caution however, if using the original wire harness with a 12v conversion, go over it with a fine tooth comb, any breaks or possibility of rub thru anywhere increases the risk of fire exponentially. Bryan

As many of you know, most modern oils can not be used in the older engines due to the reduction and in some cases the elimination of zddp (zinc) in their formulations due to new car catalytic converter requirements. I've been on the hunt for a replacement oil for not only my vehicles but for that of my customers. Below is the response from Castrol, (one of the few I recieved) I will be switching over in my shop as from what I can see this looks to be "what the doctor ordered" Ticket #9352 Ticket: Inquiry on oil to use on flat tapped engines Status:Emailed Company: Castrol Contact: Not Provided Phone: Address:Not Provided Detail Description: Sat 21/01/2012/5:29 AM EST/ mechanicalrestoration@gmail.com (email) I run a small repair shop with the focus on pre 1970 auto and farm tractors, Modern oils are no longer formulated for flat tappet engines so we are forced to use additives to reduce wear (zinc) Ive heard that syntec 20-50 is an option, is this true? will it work for example in the flathead chrysler 6, the flathead ford V8? I'm experimenting with it in my 1971 volkswagon beetle, it seems to be handling the heat of the aircooled engine however i'm unsure of the antiwear characteristics, any insight? _______________________________ The above message was sent when you were offline, via your Timpani site. Message sent from IP: 97.72.90.254 Problem Resolution: Tue 24/01/2012/11:45 AM EST/ IC - Castrol Representative- Thank you for contacting Castrol. Classic cars with flat tappet cam engines represent a special case in regards to engine oil lubrication. These engines have valve train configurations that require elevated levels of zddp (zinc dialkyl dithiophosphate) anti-wear for proper protection of the flat tappet camshaft and its lifters. Insufficient concentration of zddp will lead to premature wear and failure of the camshaft and lifters. Current GF-4 and GF-5 fuel economy grade engine oils are designed for extended life of the catalytic convertors in modern passenger cars and have industry mandated limitations on the amount of sulfur and phosphorus within the oil. Castrol SYNTEC 20W-50 classic car formulation has been replaced by Castrol with SYNTEC Power Technology 5W-50 viscosity grade. The 5W-50 grade has also been specially formulated for classic car use and has adopted the 20W-50 claims - designed for use in classic cars. The 5W-50 formulation contains more zinc additives than the 20W-50 and will also enhance start up ability in cold temperatures as well as enable better fuel economy.* *Compared to SAE 20W-50. Castrol always recommends following the guidelines of the original engine manufacturer for the recommended grade and API specific to your application. This information can be found in the vehicles owner's manual or by contacting the manufacturer directly. Castrol Consumer Relations

just had one of those "eureka!" moments, Tim, do you have access to photoshop on the 'puter? easy task to put the rims of your choice on the picture of your vehicle. Just tried it and it works damn good! Bryan

richard I'v used this one, not the best but gives you a pretty good idea.. http://www.mhtwheels.com/wheel_designers.cfm good luck Bryan

Mike you are correct, the column and attached parts will have to be placed on the '49 steering box. as to the trans: The '50 1ton never had a column shift so what your'e "grafting" into your '49 is someone elses installation. they had to have made it work from other parts, essentially what you're trying to do now. hence the brazing of the shiftshaft brackets to the column. By far the easiest way would be to locate the steering gear assy (wheel, column, shift mechanism,and gearbox) from a '48 or '49 1/2 or 3/4 ton and install that. (direct bolt up) then your trans from the '50 will work as well. clear as mud? Bryan

steering column assy: there was an early and a late unit for the '48 and '49 1/2 - 1 T and there were 2 for the '50. The '48, '49 won't bolt in to the '50 or vice verse. The interchange list only lists the steering gear (gearbox, less the jacket,wheel,pitman arm) though, perhaps the jacket (column) and it's related parts will swap from the '50 1T to the '49 1/2t gear as most of the innards were the same. the wiper motor (vacuum) is identical between '49 and '50 as for the trans--the interchange sez no, the '50 1ton 3spd matches with '53 & '54, '56 and into the 300 series truck the '49 1/2t 3spd w/o fluid drive is an entity unto itself and matches up with '50-'53 1/2 and 3/4ton only not the 1ton. The brazing on the column in this case is not a repair but an old retrofit, the '50 1ton didn't come with a 3spd column shift, someone put it there, perhaps from 1/2 or 3/4 ton '48 or '49.....maybe you're in luck and it will bolt in to your '49 Bryan