Ivan_B

Good point, same here. Also, greasing the suspension is very useful Steve's car looks to be in great shape, though, so I think he is all set there.

Maybe the shop is unable to fit the kingpins into the old ones? 🙄

I think that, unless you are buying them fancy radial replacements for classic cars, it is simply what ever you can find to fit your rims with the closest possible height, at this point So, did you have a chance to compare a representative sample of Broncos running with radials + radials replacement versus the radials + ply replacements? The story is a bit condensed, so I am trying to clarify the experimental controls employed here 😁

The door needs to be closed, you are inside 😉 Push the ring by hand and push the pin (in/out) with another tool, using your other hand 😅

The engine saga continues... I wish I had some good news to share, but I don't 😅 I installed the new stem seals and put everything back together. I wanted to check compression right after the head went back on, but the starter would not spin with half the engine missing, and I did not have time to mess with it. So I continued the assembly process. Later on, I determined that even if it did spin, I would not be able to test compression without the valve-train assembled anyway 🙄 Long story short - the engine is assembled and I have 0 compression on all 4. After hours of troubleshooting, I determined that my new hydraulic tappets are too high and keeping the exhaust valves partially open. What a bunch of nonsense 😒 I spun the engine for quite some time but the tappets are not bleeding down. And there is no way I can start the engine, like this, to warm them up either. Thus far, it looks like i have to pull the cam and manually bleed them (squeeze some oil out) so that they have a chance to adjust to the proper height.

The manual looks correct, here is a quick test: Two bottom contacts are for the button, two top contacts are the actual switch doing the work

Yes, you are correct. That's probably how it all started

Well, our statements do not necessarily contradict one-another 😁 I went with LEDs (in the aforementioned application) for the extra brightness and reduced load on the alternator. I am keeping the headlights (of course) and the cluster illumination lamps stock because I like the look of the old-fashioned, authentic, "warm" lights in the cabin 😉

I am running LEDs and they are great (stops, parking lights, turn signals). I just got the brightest ones that fit the socket and clear the reflector.

You were part of this, all along 😋 That's unfortunate... I would try to retrofit these with a standard bulb, or re-use the front lens. You've got nothing to lose, it's already broken...

You better be careful with those duel bulbs 😅 I suspect that you already do have a multi-meter, so why not just test the wiring without the bulbs? Can't brake it if it ain't there 🙃

If these were mine and, of course, unless the OEM replacements are readily available, I would try to carefully grind-off the back to make it into a DIY removable-bulb. If you manage to get a good-quality hole cut, you should be able to fit a standard bulb socket of your choice in there An alternative would be to get a modern light of the same size/shape with the bulb, and attempt to swap just the front lens (glass) portion from the original lamps. Also, if you have not already done so, take the bulbs out and check your lamp contacts. It is somewhat unusual that both of them are bad 🙃

What kind of wear do you see? Any pics? If the valve/seat are worn, you might need to do some repairs, no use in lapping them. The valve/seat should have an even, straight, correct angle, flat sealing surface; if that makes any sense 😄 Also, you should probably check that the valves are straight, when you have them out (put one in a drill chuck and see how much it wobbles at the sealing edge). As for the other things to check - I've never taken these flat-heads apart, yet, sorry. So let's wait for someone more knowledgeable to chime in. For the grease sponge, are you referring to the block? The best way, of course, is to take it out and properly de-grease with a pressure washer. Otherwise, yes, some de-greaser and a hose will do. Carb cleaner is also an alternative; less messy, but more expensive. Also, you might need some crazy chemicals if you want to clean those valves shiny as new. I had good results with heated CLR (placed the valves in a metal can and placed the can on the stove). Make sure that you do it outdoors or wear some good quality dust mask, because those CLR fumes are probably not very healthy 😇

His dry and wet compression tests are the same, so the rings are probably not the problem. I would inspect the #3 valves and seats, they are probably not sealing well. Once the issue is confirmed, I would check/clean/replace/lap all the valves and call it a day. There is probably no need to mess around with the pistons/crank assembly, if there are no signs of bad things inside the bores (rust, pitting, vertical marks, wear spots). For a quick valve check (assuming that a simple visual inspection does not show the problem) shine some bright LED flashlight into the exhaust\intake port and see if the light is coming through the closed valve, in a dark garage.

If it keeps leaking - yes you are. But regardless of what it is, you are likely looking at a rather time-consuming project. I would just watch your fluid levels and keep driving it.

I most certainly did not. The piston rings were okay, despite the end-gap being out of specs. The head gasket also seems okay. The only plausible explanation, at this time, is valve stem seals. These appeared somewhat well-used. Speaking about valve stem seals - I managed to waste all 16 of them, last week. I meticulously put them on, and then realized that I forgot to install the valve spring spacer washers, which go onto the stem and do not fit over the seals. What an unintelligent thing to do... 🙄😒 I even managed to take one of them off, almost without damaging it in the process, but figured out that I do not want to take any chances with these. So I had to order another set. Hopefully my new-new stem seals will come tomorrow and I'll finally put this thing back together.

Things are moving slowly. The 2 new exhaust valves are arriving today, and it is going back together 😏

This is a regular injection. The intake ports are washed with gas, the exhaust ones had plenty of carbon which was very difficult to clean. Just discovered that #1 both exhaust valves are bent. I guess I should've checked all of them right away 😒

This is impact... I also did not find anything except the markings on the head and pistons. IT was something hard, irregularly-shaped (all marks are different) and quite large. I am thinking - maybe a plug electrode tip? 😒

Just a little update: ordered bout $400 in parts (gaskets, rings, tappets) and started putting things back together. Here is a picture of the damaged head surfaces.

Well, you can fabricate a replacement for the broken hinge part, or weld a new piece of metal to the existing hinge.

Here is what the 1940 clips look like, for reference. So I agree with the previous suggestion about potentially having something highly custom going on with your clips...

Yep, you can clearly see the broken edge 😅

True... And the walls look good... 🙄 I don't know, the back of the valves looked dry to me (images shared on the previous page). I'll replace the seals, anyway, already got the valves removed... Also, noticed first problems when cleaning the head: cylinders 1 and 2 have signs of damage from foreign items inside the chamber. No major failure but something was definitely going on in there, at some point 😑 I have yet to remove and inspect the pistons + rings.

Do you mean to put the head upside-down and pour some liquid on top of the valves? Sure, this will be part of the testing I'll do. Another part will be to fill the intake/exhaust ports with liquid and see if it leaks out through the valves The intake valves are at the bottom on my image. The intake valves are clean from the back side (washed with injected gas spray) while dirty at the front. The exhaust are cleaner at the front (due to higher working temp?) but are very dirty on the back. I'll need to clean the back of the valves and the exhaust ports, which is a lot of work I am not looking forward to 🫠 Sure, these can be lapped in the usual manner, to a certain point, until you need the new valves/seats 😅 That is true, there is a known condition where the PCV will push some oil into the intake. But my oil appears to be coming from within the combustion chamber itself, unfortunately. The intake manifold is relatively clean, and the issue mainly affects the #1 cylinder, which is literally filling with oil quite rapidly. Some of the other ones are a bit oily too, but not enough to foul the plug and generate a misfire. Yes, this is the dreaded multiair brick, which controls the variable valve timing. Mine still works alright and appears to be in good condition. It is sitting underneath the valve cover and has no direct connection to the combustion chamber. It just drives the intake valves, in the usual fashion.