martybose

Interesting; there are no parts like these on my rearend (or my cars!). What cars did or didn't have them installed? Marty

I'm intrigued by the discussion of panhard bars, as my car doesn't have one, and I wish it did. Does anyone have a good set of photos showing how it fit and where it was mounted at both the chassis and the rearend? Maybe I could make one up ........ Marty

The shop that converted mine said that the guts were from a Studebaker. Marty

I wonder if the P18 is significantly different that the P15, because with my 1-1/2" lowering blocks I routinely go over speed bumps exiting my condo complex with no issues. I can't help wondering if maybe the shocks might be what is bottoming out; I did that when I first remounted my front shocks many years ago. Marty

You won't be able to use any spacers that you buy from Speedway, as they only sell 2.5" wide, which is what Chebbys use, but our Mopars are narrower (1-3/4", if memory serves). I bought my lowering blocks from the Night Prowlers (www.thenightprowlers.com), you can contact the owner at garyglasgow@tiadon.com. Marty, running FatMan dropped front spindles and Night Prowler 1-1/2" lowering blocks on my Mopar .....

charlie, I know I read the answer to this question a long time ago in another thread, but I don't remember the answer. With your brake kit, how much more offset outboard does the wheel wind up at, and is it because the hub has to be spaced outward or because the Disk specified has a thicker center? I'm trying to gfigure out if the rim mounting surface to the end of the dust cap dimension is any shorter than stock (I've got a hubcap clearance issue). Marty

Yours is a model 602. There are a number of radio rebuilders listed in Hemmings Motor News. Marty

The cheaper radio is a Model 602. Marty

I powdercoated a bunch of throttle linkage pieces, since they always seemed to get lightly rusty over time. Marty

If the Tanks Inc. has the proper filling pipe, I would certainly go that way. I used a poly tank that I got from Ply-Do many years ago, and getting the fuel filler to work was a royal pain. It is still difficult to get it to fill completely. Marty

Actually they are by MSD, available from Jegs, their part number 121-8842, for $11.99 a set. Marty

My 00 cable ran to the starter motor upper mounting bolt. This 00 cable was custom-made with an additional #4 pigtail that I secured to the front clutch pivot frame mount bolt, then I ran a #4 jumper from that same clutch pivot frame mount bolt to a convenient bolt on the body in the same general vicinity, with star washers at all points. As far as the shipyard tour, just give me a few days notice and be prepared to be here in Alameda early in the day, and anyone is welcome. There's also a world famous Zinfandel wine cellar (Rosenblum) is the area, so you could end the day there! Marty

Don, It was fun meeting you. Too bad I couldn't drive my 47 to work, but since it was a work day for me, I wouldn't have had enough time for a proper show&tell/drive anyway. I'll hope you get a chance to see my car sometime soon; I want to know how it compares to your race winner! Marty PS How did you like walking underneath a 100 passenger mini cruise ship?

Just keep in mind that most fuel hose is not designed to be on the suction side of the pump, they were on the pressure side. The hoses used to supply the suction side of the pump tended to be heavily reinforced to keep them from collapsing. Marty

When I redid my battery cables I ran a 00 cable from the battery to the starter bolt, then ran individual #4 jumpers from the bolt to the body and the frame. Overkill probably, but I don't think I'll ever have an ground problems! Marty

I was thinking that I could find examples of almost everything listed at my shipyard, then realized that since they had just revealed the plans for a Cube Farm, we would soon have all of them! Marty

Well, your ship faired better than mine! I joined the Ramsey crew less than a year after being launched. It was the second ship in what turned out to be the last new class of ships to be steam powered, albeit with a 1200 PSI steam plant burning JP-5. The gas turbine vessels that followed made much more sense, so the few ships of this class were all laid up. Turkey turned them down (probably a wise decision!), so they tried to sell them to someplace in South America as steam generating plants. When that deal fell through, they wound up sinking the Ramsey in a live fire exercise in the north Pacific. Our web site obtained some film of the ship being hit with a rocket, a lot of 5" shells, and finally torpedoed to get her to sink. The old girl was uncooperative all the way to the end. USS Ramsey, originally DEG-2, later FFG-2. Marty

USNR 1966-1970 USS Ramsey DEG-2, Yankee Station 1968

It was explained to me that most mechanical speedometers are set up for a cable that turns 1000 revolutions in a mile, so at 60 MPH it would be turning 1000 RPM. When they checked my speedometer they checked the number of turns per mile and installed a gearbox to get it to 1000, then they dialled in my speedometer on a bench with a 1000 RPM drive motor. So far so good. Marty

Likewise on mine; 2" individual from the headers to the tailpipe, no crossover. Marty

I was under the impression that if you use a 230 crank, you also need to use a 230 flywheel, as the mounting bolts are different. Hope you got the flywheel with the crank! Marty

Well, when someone figures out how to deal with the T-5 using the column shifter, I might consider it. until then ....... Marty

Ah, my bad! I was thinking in terms of the bracket that's on my Langdon HEI distributor, which doesn't limit movement. But on that note, wouldn't the OEM slotted bracket have to be upside down or backwards to get the vacuum can to the position that he mentioned? Marty

I think everyone is making this far too complicated. It sounds to me that the real issue is that the plug wires are in the wrong positions on the distributor cap. Try this on for thought: Make up some kind of temporary pointer to accurately mark the location of the #1 plug wire on the cap. Then take off all of the plug wires, loosen the distributor bolt on the housing and turn the housing until the vacuum can is somewhere with some movement, then line up any nearby cap tower with the pointer and tighten the bolt. Do not disengage the drive tang, or if you have to, make sure the rotor goes back in the same position. Reinstall all of the plugs wires in the correct order, starting with number one at the pointer. If done right, even the timing will be correct. Marty