insaneradio

Thank you for your reply. Yes, when pulled to first position all lights illuminate--except headlights. Once pulled fully out the front parking lights extinguish and headlights illuminate.

I replace headlight switch and removed and cleaned hi/lo beam switch. Surprisingly there is an improvement. Still warmer than I would like. I can place my finger on it indefinitely--however it does get warm. I am sure we all can agree that it should not. Aux relay may be my only good option.

Thank you Gentlemen for the suggestions. I have a spare headlight switch. I am going to clean inspect/ohm the switch prior to installation. Once installed I will report back.

I am having a problem with my headlight switch. My fuse holder mounted in the bottom of headlight switch get VERY hot when lights are illuminated. When I purchased vehicle 28 years ago I had to replace the headlight switch due to the phenolic being burnt where the fuse holder mounts on bottom of switch. I have unplugged each "leg" of the lighting circuit from the switch with the attempt to isolate which circuit may be drawing too much current. However it is my thinking if the circuit is drawing too much current the fuse would blow---never does. Then I thought maybe their might be a resistance connection in the fuse holder/headlight switch. Could not find a problem with headlight switch. My wiring is all original. Anyone else experience this?? If so I would greatly appreciate someone sharing the remedy!! Best, Dave

Thank you gentlemen for your input and advice. Greg G---I purchased the coil over shocks at Advance Automotive. There are two numbers associated with the shocks. First 58567 and 19710829. The cost was $88.00 a pair. I am going to return them and purchase another set from elsewhere. I am concerned it will stiffen the ride. Plus I no longer carry the 50 gallon moonshine tank or dead bodies in the trunk.

Evening Gentlemen, I ordered rear shocks for my P-15. This is what arrived. Are coil-over shock advantageous? Should I install them? Thank you! Best, Dave

I adjusted the clutch pedal free play. I extended the adjustment by approx three turns. Seems to have resolved the noise issue. Quiet as a kitten!! Thanks!!

Great pictures Don! I appreciate that very much!

Thank you gentlemen for all your advice. I will check as you have recommended. I will reply with update.

Good evening Gentlemen. It has been quite a while since I posted. I have owned my P-15 for almost 30 years. I truly enjoy the car. Here is my question---actually two if I may. #1 With car idling and in neutral the clutch makes a "rattling" sound. Once I slightly depress the clutch pedal it disappears immediately. I have replaced clutch plate, press plate, throw-out bearing and resurfaced the flywheel. It appears to be possibly be coming from within the bell housing?? #2 After replacing the above mentioned items I still have clutch chatter when starting out in first gear. I can work through it with slightly higher RPM or quicker clutch engagement. The car shifts fine once in motion. I might add I did replace the rear engine mounts. I did not replace the front mount. Could it be the front engine mount?? What should I look for?? Thank you for your assistance! Best, Dave

Thank you all. Very good information. I am in Northwest louisians. Not too many Plynouth/Dodge/Chrysler collectors out my way. I will be contacting Desoto1939 and discuss the loan option. Very kind of him. Dave

No I did not use the AMCO brake gauge. I have been desperate to find one for years. I used the "feel" approach. I do realize this is NOT the preferred method however I had no other option. I tore things apart again this evening. Low and behold I found the left front upper cylinder leaking. I will repair and retry. However I am not optimistic being this has been a battle for a long time. I would be very interested in solutions other members have use to replicate the tool. I do believe this is the only way to have the shoes seat perfectly within the drum. Thanks! I know it is a long shot but if someone has one they would be willing to rent out to a trustworthy person I would be greatly interested!!

I am sorry. 1947 Plymouth Special Deluxe.

Good evening, It has been quite a while since I last visited. However I am back with the same soft brake pedal I have had for 20 years. I am getting older and have decided to sell my car and wanted to get thing "right. Twenty years ago I replaced the master cylinder, wheel cylinders, rubber hoses and bled everything thoroughly. I have been VERY dissatisfied with the brakes the entire time I have owned the car. To the point I only drive it approx. 50 miles annually. I am too leary to drive it. Fast forward to this week. I rebuilt all wheel cylinders, purge all lines and check for leaks. No leaks. Bled everything thoroughly--to my dismay the petal is VERY soft. Does not pump up. I read about checking the small hole in the master cylinder. I took a peek inside mine and it is configured differently internally. It differs from the pictures of posts and the internals of my original that I still have. The smaller hole is going forward. Is it possible I was sold the incorrect master cylinder some 20 years ago?? I will check my receipts but I believe it was from Bernbaums. Thanks for any information! Dave

Fre, Yours in not an 802. I am unsure what model vehicle you have?? It is possible the model 802 was not available for the year of your vehicle?? At any rate it is an interesting set. I have always liked the sets with seperate controls. I am rather certain it could be restored. Finding the buttons may be a little dificult however. IF you were closer I would take it in to work on. Radios have been my passion for a lot of years. Dave

If you have the model 802 you will have three wires attached to the speaker. One is for the field coil and two for the voice coil of the speaker. If you wish you can use a new permamanent magnet speaker by disconnecting the brown wire from the speaker plug and cap. This was for the now non used field coil. Attach the remaining two wires to your speaker. Keep in mind the one wire is simply a braided shielding which attaches to ground. I suggest you not use the braided wire but rather run another wire from the speaker to the case of the radio. As others have stated their is a good chance your vibrator is working if it hums. I built a tester for testing these four pin vibrators and will test for free if you wish. Often times NOS vibrators will not work even if in original box. The contacts get oxidized over time. FWIW I have had good success repairing these old vibrators. I like the original hum of the radio. The capacitors in your set if not restored will be of wax/foild and paper. Over time these degrade as well just sitting on the bench. The only way to have a reliable good playing set is to replace these capacitors along with what are called filter capicitors. Any further questions please feel free to ask, Dave

Thanks Bob, After doing what research I can it appears that unless the case is totally painted there is a high degree of probability it will not have the color wheel. I have another radio I purchased from E-Pay and will be picking up from the post office tomorrow. It is the fully painted version. I will see if it too has the color wheel. I stronglty suspect it will. Thank-you again for all your assistance. It is apprecitated. Dave

Thanks Bob for the pics and information. I am still trying to make some connection to the outside cover paint and the particular version. This one pictures is a later version ofcourse missing the color wheel. Can you please confirm---on the other two sets you make mention they do not have the color wheel. On those two sets is the case completely painted?? Or is the front end of case by the dial unpainted. Thank-you.

I have had great success with a stiff wire wheel in a drill. It makes real quick work of it. I use this first before I use a canned degreaser. The degreaser has a good purpose however it turns it into gooo. After I have removed as much as I can with the wire wheel I then go with the degreaser, hand held wire brush and a rag. This is one of those things you ask ten people and get ten different answers. No matter how you go with it it is not pretty! Good Luck with it! Dave

Thanks for the pics Bob. Yes, as we both now those are both model 802's. Hence the seven push buttons. This being the upscale version compaired the the 602. The oddity however is one case is totally unpainted. Could there be a third version?? I am guessing not. Thus far it appears the only ones I have found with the color wheel are the completely painted ones. If you were to remove the tube cover I am fairly certain you would find differences. One being the I.F. transformers are much smaller in the unpainted one as well as the audio output transformer would be mounted in a slightly different place. And ofcourse it would be missing the infamous color wheel. This is something for members to keep in mind when purchasing one off of E-Pay. Remember to ask the seller to remove the cover and look for the color wheel. Performance wise I have notice no difference in the different versions. The wheel serves absoluty no purpose other than the novelty of the color change. Now the totally unpainted version:eek: The finding get more confusing!! Dave

You are absolutely correct. I will add if you do not mind---unplug the antenna connection as well. Probably goes without saying but thought I would add it just the same. Dave

They were "voice" "music" and "mellow" And yes, the colors change with movement of the tone control knob. Keep in mind only the early Model 802 have the colored wheel. The easiest way to tell is looking at the front end of the radios case. If the front end is painted it should have the color wheel. If the front end is cast color and not painted it will not have the color wheel. Dave

Thank-you Ed. Your confirmation is much appreciated. Dave

Morning Bob, As an avid radio guy I hope you can confirm an observation of mine. I have restored several of the model 802 and have seen some with and some without the color wheel. It is my observation that it is the newer versions that do not have the wheel. It also appears that the only outward identification, other than removing the side cover and looking, is that the sets without the color wheel have an unpainted front end of the case. That is the end of the case torward the dial end is plain casting color. Whereas the ones with the color wheel have the entire case painted. Would it be possible to have you take a look at yours and confirm this for me?? I would greatly appreciate it!! Dave

WOW I am impressed and SHOCKED! All at the same time being EXCITED for you!! Had to be a great feeling to hear it run. That is great news! PLEASE keep us posted ! LOTS of pictures please! Dave