Kevinb71

By the way i have the manual and it doesn't show how this spring gets installed on the linkage. Thanks!

Does anyone have a carb from a Chrysler with a semi automatic that they could get me a picture of the spring that is on the accelerator pump linkage. The pic that i have attached shows just the straight end of the spring and it does go up against anything. I could post a pic of the spring itself tonight. Basically right now the spring is just along for the ride. It does have any tension on it. I am not sure if it wasn't installed right in a previous rebuild or what. Spring both hang down directly below pump linkage adjustment holes.

Alaska48 Not knowing is a temporary condition. Not trying is more long lasting! You can at the very least check out this problem. Find the access hole mentioned in previous posts under your feet under the carpet as you sit in the car. The master cylinder (may have alot of dirt on it that will hide it) should be directly under that oval sheetmetal access cover in the floor. The actual MC cover would have a round "plug" in the top with probably a square hub on top. Make sure to clean any dirt away from around this cover very well. turn the cover out of the MC and look inside. The fluid should be visible. If there is no fluid i would try adding and then pumping slowly. Get to this point and post back your findings. Then the next steps can be discussed.

Other than the auto choke(might be from an 8 cylinder) that carb looks just like my carb on my 49 Chrysler with M6. The two terminals on the front top and the plunger lower left are part of the kickdown and transmission wiring. As others have stated the carb number should be on the slanted piece (more of a brace) that should be behind the two terminals top right. This carb should work just fine on your engine when repaired. If you would decide to go the manual choke B&B route i would be interested in buying this carb from you as future plans to put two carbs on my 251 would require me to get another carb.

Here's a link that discusses poly to hemi conversions. http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/hemi-c4.htm Hope it helps.

Looks like you are having a good trip this time. Are you heading straight north from there? I-29 was closed at Fargo the last i knew due to flooding.

Not knowing where you have started leaves some questions. Have you checked and filled the Master cylinder with brake fluid? Simple , but vital. Next if you have done that previously have you pumped the brakes(5-15 times to start with) and watched every two to three pumps whether the fluid level is going down in the master cylinder. Make sure you replace the cover every time between checking as fluid may at times squirt back up. Let me/us know where you are at and i'll go on. Might be able to scan you a copy of the service manual if you don't have one. It would be a really good idea for you to get one.

Hey THAT works. THANKS!

At the risk of sounding completly lost, where is the magnifier that was mentioned. I find nothing like that on the picture. Thanks!

Loctite makes a kit called "stripped thread repair" and it shows it being for manifolds etc. Basically you mix an epoxy (probably like JB Weld) and then put some in hole and thread you bolt or pipe in, let it set and you are supposed to be able to remove the bolt and have "new" threads. I got it a a local parts store here and it worked well for the small repair i had. My 2 cents

Welcome roadworthy! Looks like you have a nice car there. This is a good site. Good luck on your project.

Thanks for the pics and update!

Austin The little wire ring with the two ends sticking up as you mentioned needs to be removed. it's not real easy but if you have a minature needle nose pliers you can get a hold on one of the ends and gently wiggle/work it up out of the groove its in. Then grab the other one and doe the same. Once you have it out of the groove it should just slide up the shaft. Then the points cam and flat plate SHOULD just pull straight up exposing the advance weights etc. Mark which side of the flat plate at the bottom of the points cam piece went to which side of the advance. Then if you want to completely clean up the dizzy there is a small roll pin at the bottom side of the housing in the shaft drive that out and the whole shaft will pull out. Hope this helps!

Wow Rodney! Those are some super nice cars. Congratulations!

Last week $3.09 today $3.39.

I see that in Rod & Custom magazine (the last two months) they have had an article in there on making your own solid state voltage reducers. They are pretty cheap to do and should work well for wipers, radios etc. i think the article maybe online even.

You two are good!

Well maybe it's better if your Fruit of the Looms were inspected by #3. Not sure i want to know who's been inspecting my shorts!

Glad it helped. Good luck with the project.

Here is a link to a SilvoLite webpage that has some piston specs. There is also a continental page just google "Silvolite Continental" Hope this helps. http://webpages.charter.net/beckracing/slvpg36.htm

Very nice workmanship Lee! Thanks for posting all the pics! It will help me as i try to do a similiar upgrade. Can't wait to see how you do the pump. It is a power rack right? From the pics i think so. Carry on!

Micheal Do you have any pics? Would be nice to see them.

Good One Tim!

Thanks for the links! Let us know what you think of the product when it comes in Neil.

Welcome to the forum Carl. That is a very clean and striaght car. Have fun with it!