DutchEdwin

Rt, This is what I did to tighten the bolt, pulled the brake real hard. It was just enough to hold the torque. The same for getting it loose with some hammering on the wrench. good luck

WD-40 is great, but.... where you do not use it is when it comes in long contact with aluminium, like in an aluminium bock, do not put it between the block and cylinder head. It will eat the aluminium.

Captain, that is it you can jump overboard. In March 1987 with a crew of 80 and carrying 459 passengers the Herald of Free Enterprise capsized. The entire event took place in less than a minute. The disaster resulted in the deaths of 193 people. Most of the victims were trapped inside the ship and succumbed to hypothermia because of the frigid (3 °C) North Sea water. In the link below the whole story and some picktures. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Herald_of_Free_Enterprise http://images.google.nl/images?hl=nl&q=harald%20of%20free%20enterprice&um=1&ie=UTF-8&sa=N&tab=wi Now you go for a tunnel perhaps BloodyKnuckles Perhaps the attached cars are a subject....There are still plenty left in the Netherlands, I think in the U.K. also. Have a nice trip, and don't forget your umbrella;)

P-House, I saw in your pictures that the fingers are just touching the bearing, but you didn't bolt the pressure plate to the flywheel with the friction disk in between. When doing this you will see that the fingers will travel down because the springs are compressed. When the fingers travel down they will also travel to the inner, creating a smaller circle where they touch. I did assemble my clutch on the table today, saw the same effect. When not assembled, fingers just touching, when assembled the bearing was touching at the right spot. good luck, Edwin.

I'm not sure how it looks in you tranny, but my seal was sticking out a little from the back. So I whacked in a tool in the side of the seal you use to draw a bearing from a shaft (sorry, do not know the English name for dutch word pulleytrekker). and pulled it out. If it is totally inside, punch a few holes in the metal side, put in some screws, use a metal plate behind the screws and use the same tool as above to pull it out. Good luck.

The 1955 plymouth P26 and P27 with 3 speed manual gearbox have 10 inch / 11 inch Borg and Beck Clutch. In these the folowing clutch release bearing fits: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/compatibility-chart/B000CKM588/ref=au_pf_dp_chart If you only need the bearing: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1349579,parttype,1968 The bearing sizes are BCA/NATIONAL Part # 1505 {Ball Bearing Bore=1.4995" Outer Diameter=2.7344" Width=0.625"} Hope this helps. I'm going to fit mine tomorrow......I hope.

I promised to let you know how I went on with my radiator. I went to the radiator shop to see for myself. They did try to solder it but stopped because after two leaks, two more appeared just next to the soldered spot. They did put in into the water bin for me to look for my self. The radiator was leaking at 3 spots, after 5 minutes it was leaking at 5. Even big leaks among them. The shop did comment....probably the previous owner did put stop leak stuff. This will make it harder or even impossible to solder the leaks. The material could have damaged this old radiator over time because the old material is not resistant to the some what aggressive substance that will stop the leak. I called a radiator factory in my neighbourhood who does radiators for cars and trucks and specials for racing. It is possible to built in a truck radiator that will have about the same cooling as the honey comb type. So I had two options. Go original, or modern. Both ways a radiator block had to be soldered into the original radiator as a type that would fit does not exist. For the price only being €100 less for the original, I took the honey comb type. Price is high but it will be fixed in two weeks.

THanks all for the answers. I'll let you know how it worked out. The way I'm going.... I do not use stop leak stuff or a raw egg (yes it will do the trick for a couple of miles). I agree with Norm, you do not know what else it will plug off. For I want my car as original as posible I will try to stick to the honeycomb if possible. So I'll look for an other shop that can repair it. In the mean time look for an other one in the US, used or NOS. Only if al does not go well I'll look for one with a modern core that will have the same dimensions as mine. But I only go this way if I cannot find a good one or cheaper repair.

Ed, trying to understand what you are saying....do you mean that an old radiator form the 50 can be soldered to close the leak? The shop told me the leak was at several places in the middel row (one row is about 2 inches wide I think). They told me they cannot do it because they use silver. The silver has a too high melting point in relation to the honeycomb material.

The radiator is for my 1955 wagon-> V8 259 Cu.In. As I plan to tow a little caravan in the future (about 1000kg=2000lbs) I do need a good radiator. I know the repair for a radiator core is expencive if I change the honeycomb. But that much???? Other then in the US I think they are not that available anymore and are hand-made. But....If |I want to go as original as posible...meaning the global looks are the outer dimensions are about the same as the original, where can you buy one. any suggestions?

I discovered that my radiator was leaking. According to the radiator shop repair is impossible with an old radiator because the material is to soft to solder it with silver. To shop told me it is leaking in several places. Exchange of the radiator core is posible but expencive, about €900,- = $1170,- He told me this is because the core is a honeycomb type. It is essential to use this type again because newer type does not cool enough for older cars. My car is described below. I have two questions: 1) Is it posible to do it yourselve with tin? 2) is there anyone who knows where to by honeycomb radiators (is the cooling story is correct.

Dennis, how fast things go on the internet. When I tried last Sunday no link, Monday....I did find an advertisement website name for sale...... Checking it out....redirected to Auto Parts Warehouse. New website, not the same one. partstamerica.com was much better.

Shel, thanks for the replay, and.... Thanks for the discount, that makes $1.26 in €1,- plus 5% discount.....and then shipment costs, tax over shipment incl insurance and parts, tax for the fuel of the plain, the plain burned from somewhere on the ocean to Amsterdam......then tax raised over the previous tax. I need that extra 5% But thanks for shure.

I need some parts from the US. But I live on the other side of the pond. I did find a website that has a lot of what I need (saves me shipping costs) Does anyone know RockAuto.com, are they save and are the delivered parts ok?? and in a reasonable time at your place? Thanks. I did find out that the website from partsamerica.com no longer exists. Where did they go.....They had a great site on the parts used on other cars. Oh yeah..... other shops advised?

As an owner of a 1955 suburban....it is a nice looking car. It has a horn ring that has the top part of the ring not broken off. The only thing I do not understand is the hemi part. My engine is a 259 poly. I know the engines of the 240, 259 and 270 are the same for the underside of the engine. I have heard of poly swap to hemi from 240 and 270. But never read or heard of a 259 done....... Also rodders forums (used them to get info for my engine rebuilt) always mentioned 240 and 270 blocks to convert to hemi. As far as I know (but perhaps any of you fellow Americans know it for sure) the hemi came in Dodge only. And Dodge never used the 259 block. So if this is true and there is a hemi head on, what is the size?

Norm, When I took my car apart I tool lost of pictures, stored them on the hard disk of my PC, looked if the closeups where good and went on with the project. Al parts with label and small ones in a zip bag. All good until......... MY HARDDISK CRASHED! It was just a week before I planned to go the the shop to get a backup disk. Luckily I was able to recover most pictures from the crashed HD but a lot of the pictures taken from reassembling my engine, cataloging all the measurements and adjustings where not recovered. So in addition to your advise, GET A BACKUP DISK. For the dirty hand and clean expensive digital camera, I use big plastic gloves I put over my hands when I'm using the camera. The inside of the glove gets dirty, not the camera, and more important, no plastic in front of the lens. The gloves I take from the gas station. Over Here it is common to use these gloves when you put diesel in your tank, to prevent to get diesel on your hands.

Hi Igor, In what part of the country are you in? Check your privat message, Edwin.

So here's one from me... A blond went to the barbershop for a haircut. She has here MP3 player plugged in here ears. The barber asked about her what she would like him to to to her hair but got no response. So he just went cutting the blond. After a while he accidentally cut the wire to the earplugs........and after a minute the blond dropped dead to the floor. The barber didn't understand what had happend. Then an other customer suggested to listen to what was on the MP3 player. So they plugged in an other earphone. and listen to what was on.... BREATH IN........BREATH OUT.......BREATH IN.......BREATH OUT

Thank you all, Just got a call from Kanter. They will try looking into the problem. I'll keep you informed. Edwin.

Tim, thanks for the answer, but I would rather go for two correct mounts. that's why I'm asking You and Don mention, the rubber of the top part is very firm, indent with a screw driver, the lower one a bit softer. I have one (let's call it mount A) that is like that. The other one is softer (mount , I can indent it with my fingers. If I compare them with the original ones they are as soft as the soft one. I'm a bit confused here. For the front mount, it is as firm as the firm mount A. I guess it should be like that. Can you confirm this?

I bought some Motor mounts from Kanter. The first set I received had one that was rock hard (see picture: the mounts with the holes on top marked 2016). The other rubber parts had a hardness like the rubber of a tire, like 97 Shore A or 60 Shore D) I complained at Kanter about the rock hard one. They did send me a new one, however this one is very soft about 70 Shore A) So my question, How soft should the rear mounts be, hard like the rubber of a tire or soft. Same question on the front motor mount, hard like the rubber of a tire or soft. Thanks.

I wonder, if the engine is at 220, how can the bearings be overheated? Is the oil pump working well enough? Oil has two functions, lubrication and cooling!!! I checked on several oil company's when I started to rebuilt my engine. They advised me to swap the oil pump to one with more volume to prevent overheating the plain bearings. I did so because the old one was almost out of specification when I check it. The new one with more oil volume was same expense as the original one. I was lucky to find one, hothead had one in his programme for my V8 engine. For your bearings, did you check on the oil company you buy the oil from? I did with Shell, Mobil, and some other. They were all very willing to help. Within two phone calls I was talking to a specialist who new about old engines. Perhaps you should do the same and call them.

The Dutch price: gas, €1.55 / liter= $8.37 a gallon 10% up from January Robin, that's less then your place diesel €1.45/liter = $7.83 a gallon 40% up from January!!!!!! Because some %$#@&%$@#$# shuts down diesel production plants at a time where the trend is rising economics (= more diesel trucks on the road)rising sales on diesel cars and dropping gas cars. My luck....I drive a diesel but go by bicycle to work.

I have a 259 plymouth/dodge V8 engine from 1955. Originally this engine does not have a balancer on the crank. Because the main reason these engines break down is due to a crack in the crank I sure want to have a balancer on it. I bought a standard balancer, new modified 340-type damper with timing marks indexed every 90degrees for Hot Heads and OE pre-'57 timing covers . For street performance use from Hotheads. With this a V-belt pulley. Now I'm to the point of putting it together I discovered the pulley in 1 inch short in hight. So the crank V-belt pulley does not align with the waterpump pulley. According to Hotheads the only solution in to mount a '57/'58 mopar crank pulley on this damper. This should bring the crank pulley in alignment with the waterpump pulley. Dimensions of the balancer: -) 6 bolts, equally placed at 60 degrees at a pitch circle of 71.2mm = 2 4/5 in. -) bolt diameter: 6 bolts of 7.84 mm = 0.3 inch -) flange on the balancer where the pulley goes over: 57.15mm = 2 1/4 inch -) Pulley hight from balancer to the front edge of the belt (including the thickness of the belt: 47mm =1.85 inch -)Total hight of the pulley = 56mm including the flange for the timing marking. -) Pulley diameter now used: 7 1/2 inch. I think this is very big. Do not know if it is ever used again. So if a smaller pulley diameter is available it should do with an other V-belt. Question: Does anyone know what car(s) had a pulley that could fit my engine. I did try to attach two pictures, one of the balancer, one of the hight difference between the old and new situation. Thanks, Edwin.