DutchEdwin

Joe, While I was at it, why not taking it apart completely..

Last December I was setting up an wind tunnel experiment with my son. As the airspeed was not high enough I decided to put an extra fan in front. As with that it was almost good I reached out carefully to orientate the fan a bit. On that moment it tipped over, having my middle finger stopping the steel blades. Didn't hurt until I got into the ER-room 1 hour later and still did the two weeks after that. I'm lucky though, I can move the finger again, but it kept me out of the garage until two weeks ago. Tomorrow I plan to start my engine for the first time after the overhaul. Leaning over it for setting the timing with the radiator fan spinning keeps crossing my mind...., and my wife reminding me of that incident.

I decided to take the starter apart, to the last screw. I discovered that the previous owner also did, but didn't assemble correct, resulting in the bendix not traveling the whole length of the screw. What happened. The bendix screw has three groves. The bendix nut has two spring loaded sliders. (see picture 1). There is only 1 way to assemble this. The screw should go in the correct grove. If you turn the nut 120 or 240 degrees relative to the screw, the result will be that the nut will travel only 1/3 of the length of the screw. (see picture 2 for wrong assembly, picture 3 for correct assembly). BTW Frankie, my signature switch is always on, so I do not know why you cannot see it.

When I put the starter motor in place the gear teeth engage 4mm into the flywheel teeth.I checked the starter motor serial number. It is the same as in the service manual, type MCH 6206. I cleaned and oiled the bendix drive, but somehow it does not go back any further. I can turn it to go back further but then I will wind the bendix spring so it will push it back again on release. When mounted on the bellhousing and I turn the engine by hand, I can hear the starter motor idler rattle. Is this normal? The car is described below.

Since he has no website, somebody has his phone number? It's worth having him in your address book!

I figured out what my problem was/is. My first thought was wrong. Looking at the pictures I made I saw that the camshaft was OK, similar to the old one. It turned out that I placed the intermediate shaft in a wrong position, 90 degrees off (I assembled the engine with piston #1 at TDC). There was no mention in the service manual . Correcting this will mean that I will have to remove the oil pan and oil pump. For this mistake will not effect on how the engine runs, Ill just let it be.

I always keep my nuts in a nice warm bag. This will prevent them from becomming rusty

just what I came across today on my V8 when trying to set the timing.... I had a new camshaft made. When I checked the dizzy with piston #1 at compression at TDC I was expecting that the rotor would point forward to the radiator. To my surprise it pointed to the left (driver side). I checked the firing order. It was ok, just that #1 wasn't at the forward point on the dizzy but 90 degrees off counter clockwise. I guess the machine shop made the cam-slot for alignment with the crank in the wrong position. I'm not sure but could something like this have happened to your engine????

My car drove about 6 years ago.. So the speedo hasn't moved since. Before it was working fine. I did oil the speedo cable before I had my last drive. If I understand it right, I should be able to turn the meter by hand, and I cannot. Is there a thing I should know (perhaps where to put the oil in?). Since the speedo meter is still in the car and I cannot see how and if I have to take it apart to oil it? I planned to do this today, but had to a reinstall on my computer from scratch. and just finished, took me the whole day..

I have a question. I have the speedometer cable attached to the speedometer, not to the gearbox. When I try to turn the cable there is a lot of resistance. I'm not able to turn it (the cable) by hand. Is this normal, or is there a problem with the speedometer. Thanks.

Joe, I just did what you said, put some chicken food, grain and sunflower pits on a plate, just a meter away from where he was digging. He flew away as I was coming of course. But when he (or she) came back, he started digging at the same spot, disregarding the plate (As I think of it....was probably a she, ..... ).

We've had our first snow today. That means it's cold in the garage. Even seen a green woodpecker in the garden digging for food. I've never seen it before.

Yes, Ranco inc. type H16, a company form Columbus Ohio Tim, I gess this is what you mean by Studebaker: http://www.studebaker-info.org/tech/Ranco/rancotb/rancotb.html That's almost the same one as mine. Found it after looking at pictures on Google search "heater valve", and found the pictures of the assembly order also. And the NAPA No. 660-1000 Balkamp repair kit, I'll have to check if it is the correct one, but probably is.

I agree with you all on buying a new one. However, before I could find a good replacement I had the opportunity to get a new rubber. It it in my garage for more then a year now, just didn't put it back together yet. So the trill is to get it back operational. I would prefer that, because I know the rubber inside is correct (I have a range of EPDM rubber seals 50 - 60 - 80 shA). If that doesn't work, Ill have to buy a new one. If there is anyone who has one leaking, and can open it to look for the assembly order that would be nice. B.t.w. Ed, if there is a rebuilt kit from napa, do you have a number....

Hi, I'm trying to restore my heater valve. It took me a while before I had a new rubber part made so I do not remember where it goes exactly (forgotten to make a picture, ) In the picture you can see the valve stem. on it is a small rubber part with a metal spring at the bottom. With the valve into the tube, the stem sticking out through the small opening of the tube, what is the next order of assembly? 1) First the rubber seal (at the black arrow), then the small rubber part or 2) first the small rubber part, then the seal (at the red arrow). or 3) completely wrong an other order of assembly..... thanks

Marty, You are correct. B.t.w. I've never seen tape being used in any car tubing. If the fitting is no longer sealing off, replace the fitting. It is probably damaged. You can try locktite or any other thread sealant. Ok if it works. But I prefer replacing it.

My valve is a temp. control type. So, it will operate the valve with a sensor. I'm trying to repair it with new internal rubber parts. In the mean time...hook the heater up to the system without a valve, if it is not available at the local car shop here (haven't been there yet). As it is no problem to connect the heater without valve for the winter, it gives me more time to make an attempt on repairing the original. And keep the focus on getting the engine ready before winter. Will put some pics when I'm repairing. Success or not. When it fails.....well one of the many suggestions made on valves can give a solution. Thanks.

Don't know who has mentioned this before (I think is was still on the old plymouh forum way back) but an other trick that should help is loosen the bolts a bit, drive the car around the block, then the drums should come off easy. Haven't tried it myself, when I did my brakes, I ended up with one drum unround a bit because of the force of heat or combination of both I had to use.

Congrats Fred, is the radio still working?.....Let us know when it gives it's first AM sound. Mine wasn't. I could fix it only moving the tubes around carefully in there sockets.

Mike, It is not my wallet but.....$50 for the hold down, $50 for the tray....that's a lot of money, just to hold down a battery. Read to be eaten away by the acid bug. I always keep in mind, if it was a modern car, what would the part cost. About double that could cost a not rare part for a plymouth as a rule of thumb if not available at Napa or so. If it is more...I'll fix it with something else, mostly ending up with 10% of the cost it would take for that original. No show or auction on my car so....

As my heater valve is leaking very much, I was wondering. On moder cars there is no valve that controls the flow of hot cooling liquid to the heater radiator. Just the air is not blown through the radiator when you do not want the heat to come in the cabin. Has anyone done the bypass on the heater valve and connected the heater radiator directly.... In my opinion this could work for our old cars as well. Am I overlooking something?

Jim, My factory specification is 4 deg. BTDC. I would like to have this article. You can send it by just clicking on my name. A window will appear in which you can send an email to my personal mail address.

Greg, Seams like rocket science what you did. Me being a rocket scientist...no big deal. Just the way I thought I had to go. Thank you very much for your help. I'm almost ready to start my engine. Building up the fenders and radiator frame now. Next is hooking up wires and hose, fill oil. Then........fingers crossed at the first ignition.

Greg, Thank you for the answer, I am familiar with the theory. But it does not tell me on how to set the timing in that way the burn front has reached it's full capacity just at TDC so the full force of the burn, explosion, can be used when the piston is going down. So how did you discover you timing should be 4 BTDC? Keep in mind, my engine is overhauled completely, I did adjusted the carb to the service manual spec's but did not clean it (winter job). The adjustments of the 4BBL carb was far-of spec so the mixture screws will be far-of as well I assume. So setting the mixture and setting timing both at the right points can/will:confused: influence each other?????

I'm about to set my engine timing (a P27 form 1955) I know the octane number of gas in 1955 was 68. Now it is 96 or 98. Does this, or anything else because of difference between old and modern gas, effect the timing an engine has to be set to. The service manual specifies 4 degrees BTDC (V8 engine). I looked in the search engine about how to set the timing optimal. What I understand is tune timing until the vacuum on the inlet manifold is max (with vacuum advance disconnected). Did I understand this right? Thanks.